TBI Chip 1983 CJ 7 with 1990 350 TBI having chip proram issues

[EagleMark]

You'd have to ask Redevil river how to turn off 10K, I'm not familar with his cables.

Not sure if hacks are in Tutorial? Tutorial is really only a basic start to get going.

Yes those are right files. Open them in TunerPro with the bin you want to use. If you don't see the Paremeter tree on left click View, Show Paremeter Tree. Then choose Catagories is easiest. See a folder for Hacks? Read instructions. Then you will have spark advance and BPW, which converts to Injector Duty Cycle, and MPG with a history table.

[devind]

Yes those are right files. Open them in TunerPro with the bin you want to use. If you don't see the Paremeter tree on left click View, Show Paremeter Tree. Then choose Catagories is easiest. See a folder for Hacks? Read instructions. Then you will have spark advance and BPW, which converts to Injector Duty Cycle, and MPG with a history table.

Thank you,
I reset the the bin file with the hack and saved them.
Then went out warmed the Jeep up and plugged in the Tuner Pro to just monitor incoming data.
The injector duty cycle is still reading high with no change as far as I could tell.
Is this still a problem with cable settings or is there something else I can try.

[EagleMark]

To datalog BPW change the address from D002D003 to 00AB00AC. Those are number zero and not letter O. Save bin, burn chip, use chip and it should work.

Post the bin and log and we can see?

ALDL mode adds 8.09 degrees timing on top of spark advance, rasies idle, not sure what it does to fuel? I learned a long time ago that the internet was wrong and 10k was not needed on this ECM and messes up all data.

[devind]

To datalog BPW change the address from D002D003 to 00AB00AC. Those are number zero and not letter O. Save bin, burn chip, use chip and it should work.

Post the bin and log and we can see?

ALDL mode adds 8.09 degrees timing on top of spark advance, rasies idle, not sure what it does to fuel? I learned a long time ago that the internet was wrong and 10k was not needed on this ECM and messes up all data.

I do not have the ability to burn a chip I was just logging data and was wondering as to why the injector duty was always reading so high.

[EagleMark]

I do not have the ability to burn a chip I was just logging data and was wondering as to why the injector duty was always reading so high.

Got to apply the hack to bin file, burn chip then use it or data will not be changed to come out of chip differantly.

XDF side of TunerPro changes the bin file you burn onto chip. This is what makes changes to chip.

ADX side of TunerPro is the scan tool to watch what engine sensors are doing. So you know what to adjust in chip.

[devind]

I may have jumped the gun on complaining about the program that tbichips.com did.

I had the day off today and decided to check some things out.

First off I pulled the plugs to give them a check and right away I noticed a lot of ash buildup on all of the plugs with 4 being pretty bad probably from all the earlier runs when the BLM’s were so low which was caused from the injectors flowing more than what was estimated (thought they were 60lbs ended up being 69lbs). Also they showed some signs of the timing being a little retarded.

So I installed some new plugs and took it for a little test drive right away I could tell it was running much better but felt a little sluggish like it wanted some more timing. So I advanced the timing 3 degrees for a total of 11 degrees of base timing.

I know I lot of you will think that is a crazy amount of base timing but that is the only way it will run good. Anything less than about 6 to 7 degrees of timing it will fall on its face on acceleration and backfire through the throttle body. It becomes somewhat drivable at 8 degrees and really starts running well at 10 degrees.

The BLM’s were still a little high so I raised the fuel pressure from 16 psi up to 19 psi and that seemed to lower the BLM’s a little. I have to say with those adjustments it is really running good now over all drivability is much better, it accelerates very hard from dead idle all the way to 5K.

I know there have been a lot of post on here of people that have had issues with Brian and I was afraid I too was going to fall into that same category. But I always try and treat people fair and give them a chance to make it right. I believe after he burns another chip with this new data it will be pretty close to dead on. Once the data all looks good he is going to make some changes to run a heated O/2 sensor which should also be a plus.

Here is a data log after I made all the changes.

[EagleMark]

It's great you want to treat people fair. I hope you are also treated fair! If the world was still like this it would be a better place!

Now disconnect your data cable and do the same drive and let me know if it still feels and acts the same? Please be bias and honestly let us know?

OK no don't! I just can't...

Fairness also includes being honest doesn't it? Let me give you some honesty here. Everyone here knows if and when I'm wrong they correct me, it's an open friendly environment and I am wide open for criticism.

The cable you have puts 160 baud systems which read data on Pin E of ALDL port into ALDL mode by applying 10K resistance to pins A and B. When you are in ALDL mode your idle goes to 1000 RPM, have you noticed your idle is now 1000 RPM and not what it is commanded to do in the idle table? If in gear on an auto trans and holding the brake real hard it may not make it to 1000 RPM and IAC will continue to climb trying it's hardest and max out at 145... and stay there forever and idle at 1500 RPM or so, until you turn off engine and ECM can reset, then IAC counts will go back down to maintain 1000RPM idle while cable is still plugged in. Without cable it will idle correctly again.

It also adds 8.09 degrees timing to the entire timing table in ASDU bin file and it's the same for all bin files I have seen. In ASDU the max spark in a decel condition is 39.02 degrees, minus the bias of 9.84 is a actual spark advance of 29.18 plus the ALDL spark of 8.09 is actual of 37.27. This is with the distributor set to base timing of 0 with bypass wire disconnected. You are disconnecting bypass wire and setting base timing, correct? You have a base timing now of 11 degrees, so lets add that on top of 37.27 and we have an actual timing of 48.27 degrees advance. This is for a stock timing table, I doubt if you paid for a custom chip it is stock, it should be much more so add that on top of 48.27, if you had a max WOT spark advance of 36 degrees you would be at 47!!! If the timing table was built correctly there would be no added spark advance to decel spark. Adding all the uncalculated fuel you did with fuel pressure may have saved you an engine! Also you have no knock sensor so this is crazy dangerous way to do timing? Some high compression well built engine won't knock anyway, they just loose power while the pistons melt a hole...

There's only 45 degrees between spark distributor posts on distributor cap, so now not only are you having spark knock/detonation, you've pasted all that and are firing the wrong cylinder...

If you change fuel pressure you need to calculate BPW and enter it into the bin file or none of your fueling is correct.

BLM or Block Learn Modifier is the LTFT or Long Term Fuel Trim. It's not an immediate measurement of fuel trim, it's a long term average. SO when you adjust fuel pressure or make changes to Fuel VE table to adjust for BLM/LTFT you need to clear old BLM/LTFT average and let it relearn all over again so you have an accurate BLM. Your INT Integrator or STFT Short Term Fuel Trim is all over the place so I can tell this was not cleared and it will take some time to finally relearn to a BLM number you can use for adjustment.

Also the BLM numbers are not correct if you data logged with things like PE still enabled, yours is, Decel enleanment or DFCO Decel Fuel Cut Off, EGR... ect... unless you exported data to a spread sheet and removed all those data points. BLM is a worthless number when you are in PE Power Enrichment like WOT, It locks at 128 so you have no idea what AFR you are at during WOT!

The only thing I can't explain is your run away knock counts? You still don't have a knock sensor right?

Hope that gives you some education so you can continue your tuning and make a fair decision on what to do next!