You can see them in this picture:
You can see them in this picture:
The man who says something is impossible, is usually interrupted by the man doing it.
The original TB crossover fuel pipe was too badly damaged to use but the I used the fittings for the new set-up. Also, no longer have the mis-matched injectors from the original set-up. The spray patterns look identical (to my un-calibrated eyeball). The injectors were matched by the supplier.
The cam is a Sealed Power CS766 and is the only mod in the engine.
I asked for an "RV" cam when the engine was gone through and balanced in 2002. I know squat about cams.
Other than running last year for less than an hour, nothing but changing to stainless braided fuel lines have been done to it.
The deflectors are still in the plate and the bend angles look identical to the fans in my other plates.
The EGR is gone but a plate covers the hole. The wiring for the EGR is in the harness and I will put one in later unless you think I need one now.
Cats will be later also.
Thanks for staying with this.
Bob
Don't force it, get a bigger hammer!
That cam shouldn't need a different timing curve from stock, so that theory is out the window.
Stainless braided fuel lines-tell us they're teflon-linered. Most stainless braided fuel line is NOT at all compatible with ethanol laced fuel, unless it specifically says it's teflon-lined, and if it's not, then the rubber liner could be broken down and dissolved-clogging both your injectors and screwing up the fuel pressure regulators. Might be something to look at. Some rubbers are better at resisting dissolution by ethanol than others, but eventually all rubber lines will succumb to the ethanol rot. Newer cars all have various plastic liners inside the rubber hose to prevent that.
You could try disconnecting the injectors completely, and getting the engine to fire on starting fluid only. Generally takes two people to do effectively, if you want it to keep running on just starting fluid. Would help rule out an ignition problem.
Also on your dizzy is there a vacuum advance canister? I have a couple HEI dizzys here that have them but I don't know if they're common/right year/junk etc. If it does, I'd unhook it for now.
Thanks Xnke:
My fuel lines are Teflon lined.
My HEI is computer controlled and doesn't have a vacuum advance. I'm going to rebuild it instead of trying to make it work with used parts.
Ordered a AC-Delco module that should be here next Tuesday. May need to use a used reluctor because no one was able to find a new one. Have several and they all fire a LED when spinning the shaft. Got everything else from Auto zone. Still think my trouble is vacuum leak but we shall see.
Thanks again
Bob
Much of the braided line on the market today is imported junk. Just a comment, yours may be godo quality.
For starting and idling, if you see plenty of fuel pressure during cranking then you've got enough fuel to start. A vacuum leak during cranking would have to be pretty big to to cause a major problem. And it wouldn't cause you to need 45 degrees spark advance. The terminals on a V8 cap are 45 degrees apart so you're almost firing on the next terminal. I'm sure you've checked and double checked, but is it possible the wires are off? Is it possible you're off by 4 cylinders and you're firing on TDC of the exhaust stroke? I promise, it's happened to me and plenty of others. I've got a great story about a Farmall M that ran for years like this! If you can pull a valve cover then you can check to make sure valves are both closed when the rotor is approaching #1 firing point.
Thanks 1project2many. The fuel line is Russell Proflex with CPE liner. First, its new and second, fuel pressure is steady at 12 psi while cranking and running (poorly).
The distributor is off today as I'm rebuilding it. I have several but I just bought new rotor, cap and module. Couldn't find a reluctor so I'll have to use the best of what I have. They all light a LED when spinning by hand. Have avoided pulling a valve cover but it will probably come to that. Thanks for the logic boost.
Bob
When the distributor gear is reinstalled, there are two ways it can go back on the shaft. If you install the rotor on the shaft, then install the shaft in the housing, then the gear. The gear has a small drilled section towards the bottom. This should line up with the rotor tip. Drive the pin in the gear. When the dist is back in the engine bay, it will sit in and look correct. You can spot the ones where the gear is backwards. The dist will sit slightly at an angle and the wire sets are not right.
Thanks Billy: Good info and it does line up. Thanks for helping out. Just got back from having my module checked out. Its good so I'll use it and I have a new one coming in Tuesday just in case. Should be trying to start by this evening.
Bob
Looks like this engine will be down a while. The HEI rebuild didn't help. When I was getting ready to try again I noticed oil on the manifold near the dipstick. The dipstick was out about 2 inches and oil was running down the outside. Started to run a compression test and spark plug hole 4 had oil running out. Ran the test and all 8 had right at 60 psi. I'm going to run a leak-down test today (I hope). Also helping my son swap 3.9 l engines in his 97 Dodge van this week end.....
Not looking forward to either project. Will keep you posted. Thanks for all your help and encouragement.
Bob.
Got her up and running today. Looks like my problem was a 2 rookie errors. First 60 psi isn't enough compression to start a lawnmower. I wasn't trying to test a warm engine and the engine hadn't been run in over a year. Dry holes don't do too well. Shot a lot of oil in every cylinder and cranked her over for quite a while.
Now have 160 psi across the board. Second DA error was the oil wasn't coming out of #4 plug hole, it was running in from a leaky valve cover gasket. Tightened up the cover and problem went away. Guess the dipstick was just overlooked.
The engine didn't really like 0* advance with the disconnect but seems to like 10* just fine. It runs pretty smooth but idles cold at 1000 to 1200 rpm. After warming up it idles between 650 and 800 rpm. Re connected and restarted and timing is right at 18* but is hunting between 650 and 800. A little bit of white smoke from the pipes.
Used the AKAH chip that S&P supplied and a 1227747 I just got from Ebay. Will go back to the old one with the eeprom to make sure that wasn't a problem. Now that it's running I'll get my laptop on it. Thanks for all the help guys.
Bob
Last edited by uncabob; 09-19-2016 at 11:18 PM. Reason: 1000 was 100
Up and running again. Using BIN AKAH. At first it was doing the same thing it did in September. it was hunting around 500 to 1000 rpm but tried to stay around 6 to 800 rpm. FP was still set at 9psi. Bumped up to 11 psi and RPM settled down a little around 700 but still a little jerky,Hg was a little jerky at about 18 and advance stable at 18*.
Bumped FP up to 12 and RPM settled to a fairly smooth 700, Hg steady at 19 and adv steady at 18*. Q? Do these numbers seem reasonable?
In addition to these adjustments I did some smoothing of VE.
Also used spark latency table suggested by Fast355 and maxpowerta for Corvette large cap HEI distributors. Re: Thread: Mpfi on OLDS 455; will this distributor work? I'm using $42 but the table is for a different computer and I hope that is OK??
Should be getting my laptop back by next week.
Thanks for the help. Bob
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