Need help with 383 TBI

[Hellbilly]

I've asked questions here before, but I now have the engine built and in the truck. It's ready for fluids and start up. A little about the build, its 383 with 9.5:1 compression, AFR 195cc Enforcer heads, Edelbrock Performer TBI intake, Lunati roller cam with 206/215 duration at .050" 112 lobe separation .470"/.489" lift, 1.5 roller rockers. Heads, intake, and headers where port/gasket matched. SPR Perfomance throttle body with 1" spacer, and intake ports matched to throttle body. Truck is a 93 K1500 4l60e on 35s. 3.42 rear gears (I know, they'll get changed by the end of the year.)
I played around with Tuner Pro for a while before I pulled the old engine out and got familiar with how to use it for the most part. I have all the Moates hardware. I installed a bung to add a wide band later (when I have the money). This is the first time I've built an engine start to finish on my own and tuning is new to me too. Besides the engine constants, what else do I need to change from the stock tune to get fired up? Once its running, I know how to get the VE tables dialed in, but I know I can probably add some timing with the aluminum heads, right? I would just like some help, to make sure I'm not missing anything before I try to start this thing this weekend. For now I Just need it running but at some point I'm going to need to tune it really clean for emissions test and would like to be able to just swap chips back for daily driving/performance. Anyone able to help me with this?

[tayto]

the only timing i would be worried about is your initial, and then idle timing. get fuel dialed first, WB is necessary now IMO. has the engine been broken in yet?

[Hellbilly]

the only timing i would be worried about is your initial, and then idle timing. get fuel dialed first, WB is necessary now IMO. has the engine been broken in yet?

Right. So initial timing at zero. And get idle timing before fuel? And no, engine has had no brake in. I built this thing in about 10sq ft of space in my garage and swapped it in my driveway. I don't really have access or the money to have it broke in on a stand or anything like that. So what WB would you recommend? I know there was one recommended by moates if that's still available. Should I get that set up before trying to run my engine?

[tayto]

i generally don't use 0* for initial, but whatever you decide on it needs to match whatever is in your calibration. there are lots of good WB out there, stick with a "big name" and try to order from a real vendor, counterfeit wideband sensors are a real thing. i am a big believer of getting a motor properly broken in, get it hot,do cam break-in if required, and then full wot pulls to seat the rings. if you are not comfortable getting the fuel table dialed in very quickly I would just throw a carb on it to do breakin then tool around with EFI after. maybe I'm being too anal but everything i build goes on the dyno now. installing and engine and not have to worry about cam or ring break is worth the few hundred bucks to have it done.

[Hellbilly]

Ok, that's the kind of advise I'm looking for. What range of initial timing do you suggest? I'll order order a wideband from Summit, and look into what my options are for break in. I think I can get fuel table done pretty quick, but again, I've never done this from the ground up. Probably just psyching myself out. I've never had anyone teach me more than how to change brakes and oil on a car. Everything I've done, I taught myself by trial, error and the internet. I struggled to match parts up, building this thing, not realizing how many differences there was in gen1 SBC parts, but here I am with it complete. Thanks for the help

[steveo]

its really hard to hurt or blow up a well built smallblock. i wouldn't really stress over it, you just need to make sure your general fueling is between like 11:1 and 15:1 so you don't rinse the rings clean, and the timing at a range so it doesn't go click click boom, then tune from there.

[Hellbilly]

its really hard to hurt or blow up a well built smallblock. i wouldn't really stress over it, you just need to make sure your general fueling is between like 11:1 and 15:1 so you don't rinse the rings clean, and the timing at a range so it doesn't go click click boom, then tune from there.

How far off should I expect the stock fuel/timing tables to be though? I learned how to use TP on my bone stock engine, but have no experience in what happens when you change heads, stroke, ect.
If I take the stock tables, set initial spark, and change engine constants, are tables going to be close enough to start/run so I can go from there? Or do I need to adjust anything first? Idle RPM?
Sorry, I really have started over stressing this, and second guessing every little thing.

[Fast355]

its really hard to hurt or blow up a well built smallblock. i wouldn't really stress over it, you just need to make sure your general fueling is between like 11:1 and 15:1 so you don't rinse the rings clean, and the timing at a range so it doesn't go click click boom, then tune from there.

10:1 won't even hurt it at WOT. Better to have it a bit rich than too lean. GM ran alot of truck calibrations in closed loop at WOT.

[Fast355]

How far off should I expect the stock fuel/timing tables to be though? I learned how to use TP on my bone stock engine, but have no experience in what happens when you change heads, stroke, ect.
If I take the stock tables, set initial spark, and change engine constants, are tables going to be close enough to start/run so I can go from there? Or do I need to adjust anything first? Idle RPM?
Sorry, I really have started over stressing this, and second guessing every little thing.

Set the injector flow rate, set the displacement, raise the idle to ~750, add some fuel (10% or so) to the VE above ~60 KPA. It should run well enough for initial startup.

My 383 TPI ran well enough on the TBI 350 stock tune to drive and load on the trailer when I brought it home.

[Kitch]

What are you doing for a fuel pump and what fuel pressure were you going to use as a base setting?
My Vortec headed Comp Cam TBI 350 first fired and idled with the stock TBI fuel pump and pressure but even with altering the VE tables the stock pump will be highly unlikely to keep up with any W.O.T runs.

[Hellbilly]

What are you doing for a fuel pump and what fuel pressure were you going to use as a base setting?
My Vortec headed Comp Cam TBI 350 first fired and idled with the stock TBI fuel pump and pressure but even with altering the VE tables the stock pump will be highly unlikely to keep up with any W.O.T runs.

I put a vortec pump in it and fuel pressure is set at 18.

[Hellbilly]

Set the injector flow rate, set the displacement, raise the idle to ~750, add some fuel (10% or so) to the VE above ~60 KPA. It should run well enough for initial startup.

My 383 TPI ran well enough on the TBI 350 stock tune to drive and load on the trailer when I brought it home.

Thanks, good to know

[Hellbilly]

Went ahead and fired up, set initial timing, but having ignition issues. By recommendation, I used Accel distributor (performance replacement) and wires (superstock spiral core). Pertronix Flamethrower coil. Plugs are BKR5E. Anyone see this happen before? I tried putting the distributor from my old engine in it and it did the same thingScreenshot_20230130_065738.jpg

[1project2many]

This is usually because the definition file is reading the wrong values for spark or has the wrong math to convert the computer data to correct spark numbers. The way the numbers change appears to roughly match a spark table but the values are incorrect so I would suspect wrong math.

Which definition are you using?

[Hellbilly]

This is usually because the definition file is reading the wrong values for spark or has the wrong math to convert the computer data to correct spark numbers. The way the numbers change appears to roughly match a spark table but the values are incorrect so I would suspect wrong math.

Which definition are you using?

Advanced $0D TP5 v251