what im missing here

[rytari]

here, this is idle i have now... afr 15.5 to 16.5:1

only way to get rpm lower is to close throttle plate more, and then engine will run like s##t, rpm goes between 350 and 600, afr goes from 12 to 16:1 engine usually stalls and dies after sometime...











how to make it something like 13-14:1 aft and 650-700 rpm...

[EagleMark]

Put the throttle stop screw back to where it was. It is a minimum air setting! Not an idle adjustment!

There is an Open Loop AFR table that could be adjusted if need be.

WinALDL is a good tool but very limited compared to TunerPro RT, then you can save a detailed data log and post it here for us to look at.

[rytari]

nope, cant do that... if i put it where it was in 1st place i wont have idle at all... im sorry that i write so bady that its difficult to understant.

btw, i have allready little lowered my afr:s in that open loop table but it didnt help at all, if i get somehow idle running lower that 750 rpm afrs goes down momentarily or not down but both rpm and afr will constantly change and eventyally engine dies like i tried to say in my previous post... its now stop srew is set for smallest possible where engine still runs when iac disconnected, its something like 1/2th turn more open from the factory setting. but if i have to change that table more, how much i should change it... its now 12.00 in the open loop afr vs temp table for engine normal running temp... i cannot get past emission test if my rpm is higer that 1000 at idle... and faislt est alse if too much co2, hc etc..., runs too rich or stumbles so.

[EagleMark]

You've also lowered your " IAC - Position vs Temp " so low and not changed " IAC - Kickdown Steps "

"TIP: The kick down steps (@ $5D8) must be one step greater then the IAC position vs coolant table (@ $5F5) steps for the ECM to fully control the idle speed.
"

I may take back my vacuum leak? Since you have even IAC counts during the 1175 idle RPM picture, this above may be your issue?

[rytari]

You've got something wrong! I'd say a big vacuum leak! Your turning in the stop screw all the way in and still high idle is proving that.

Fast bin had the spark you need at idle for that cam. I didn't look but shoot for 700-750 RPM. It will only be accurate to that RPM in Drive, not Park or Neutral.

With a larger cam you need all the air possible at throttle blade to mix with fuel from injector. So after car is warmed up and driven then look at IAC count in drive about 15-20 and in park as long as it has a few like 1-5. Then your throttle blade minimum air is set right. That is if your fueling and spark are set right!

like i said, i have noticed engine will not run well below 750 rpm.. and that i have in drive but that over 1000 is too much in neutral for emission testing and also very hard for the trans when going from neutral to drive... iac count is from 0 to 2 in drive, but this 33-35 in neutral. if i disconnect iac and turn stop screw in engine dies below 650 rpm...

You've also lowered your " IAC - Position vs Temp " so low and not changed " IAC - Kickdown Steps "

"TIP: The kick down steps (@ $5D8) must be one step greater then the IAC position vs coolant table (@ $5F5) steps for the ECM to fully control the idle speed.
"

I may take back my vacuum leak? Since you have even IAC counts during the 1175 idle RPM picture, this above may be your issue?

ok... this i not been knowing... i thought this kickdown setting is used when coming from the speed to idle...

[delcowizzid]

the iac steps seem backwards to me if its showing higher iac steps in neutral v's drive as if there was a gear selection wire wired wrong if that ecu even uses one like im used to

[EagleMark]

here, this is idle i have now... afr 15.5 to 16.5:1

only way to get rpm lower is to close throttle plate more, and then engine will run like s##t, rpm goes between 350 and 600, afr goes from 12 to 16:1 engine usually stalls and dies after sometime...

how to make it something like 13-14:1 aft and 650-700 rpm...

You've got something wrong! I'd say a big vacuum leak! Your turning in the stop screw all the way in and still high idle is proving that.

Fast bin had the spark you need at idle for that cam. I didn't look but shoot for 700-750 RPM. It will only be accurate to that RPM in Drive, not Park or Neutral.

With a larger cam you need all the air possible at throttle blade to mix with fuel from injector. So after car is warmed up and driven then look at IAC count in drive about 15-20 and in park as long as it has a few like 1-5. Then your throttle blade minimum air is set right. That is if your fueling and spark are set right!

[Fast355]

You've got something wrong! I'd say a big vacuum leak! Your turning in the stop screw all the way in and still high idle is proving that.

Fast bin had the spark you need at idle for that cam. I didn't look but shoot for 700-750 RPM. It will only be accurate to that RPM in Drive, not Park or Neutral.

With a larger cam you need all the air possible at throttle blade to mix with fuel from injector. So after car is warmed up and driven then look at IAC count in drive about 15-20 and in park as long as it has a few like 1-5. Then your throttle blade minimum air is set right. That is if your fueling and spark are set right!

Other possibility is the base timing is off.

I wonder if has considered trying ASDU modified for a V6.

[rytari]

Other possibility is the base timing is off.

I wonder if has considered trying ASDU modified for a V6.

2 deg btdc but im not familiar whit the prom programs, for what asdu belongs from factory?

[EagleMark]

2 deg btdc but im not familiar whit the prom programs, for what asdu belongs from factory?

With bypass wire disconnected?

ASDU is a factory 5.7L auto and my choice for all V6 or conversions. To start tuning a V6 the only change needed is Cylinder count from 8 to 6. With yours I would also add Fast timing table and the VE you have worked on.

[rytari]

With bypass wire disconnected?

ASDU is a factory 5.7L auto and my choice for all V6 or conversions. To start tuning a V6 the only change needed is Cylinder count from 8 to 6. With yours I would also add Fast timing table and the VE you have worked on.

yes, with wire disconnected, i think ill have to try both, asdu based and my old on thats been repaired by fast355 and see what happens..

[TINBENDER59]

have you set your TPS to 0.70 vdc at closed position, it could be causing a lot of your idle issues??? just a thought