Let's not forget that when you change the distributor base setting from say 0* to 10*, you've also changed your injector time by 10* because it is referenced from DRP...
Let's not forget that when you change the distributor base setting from say 0* to 10*, you've also changed your injector time by 10* because it is referenced from DRP...
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
which in his log is 2.46adv to ref pulse so ya that base error/lie becomes pretty important.Originally Posted by EagleMark
just a lil tidbit of fact though..the 165 using corvette bins uses 6* the bins used in camaros is 0*.
he is going by his engine saying it should be set @ 10* but they failed to tell him thats when using old school standerd ignition systems i'm guessing, me personally would try to set it up using the 6* base that the corvette style bins use instead of the 10* but then he would have to again set the min idle, tps, etc.. and probably too much work plus as i said earlier that changes everything his tune/tuner is based on so he needs to finish with him before turning the page and starting clean and correctly.
Last edited by xtreamvette69; 08-19-2013 at 01:29 AM.
I totally understand the timing thing but like I said when we were looking at live data, let just use for example the ECM was calling for 18 degrees of advance + the base of 10 the light should go to TDC mark if you advance the gun to 28 degrees. It was not doing this but when it lined up adding 14 as base but I did set the base timing to 10 degrees with the spark advance wire u plugged.
What distributor or more importantly what EST/ICM module do you have?
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
if the ecm is giving 28* to the engine(all things in bin set to actual and correct same 10@ base as the engine has then yes advancing the timing light to 28* should put you right on zerro, if not something is wrong. but with the way he has the bin set if the ecm/bin/log is showing adv as 28* and you set the lights adv to 28* it would be showing 4* retard.
this is all just truely making this way more complicated then it really needs to be, its much simpler with less figuring and thought to just do it the right way. i truely dont even know why your using the 10* as your base to begin with but it is what it is.. but the fact remains that just doing it all correctly eliminates tons of problems as well as making everything far easier.
Last edited by xtreamvette69; 08-19-2013 at 02:29 AM.
probably some go fast part thats ment to add proformance by trickery lol but ya idk.
all the trickery go fast parts that you can just add onto an EFI engine for gain just trick to acheive there goals, these are intended for people that want a lil gain and dont have means, ability, or urge to reprogram there chip.
anyhow i told myself i was going to stop posting in this thread as none of it makes any diff till he makes desissions and or finishes with his tuner(chip correct or chip incorrect) and here i am still posting and i'm not really seeing any good coming of it so again i am going to try and refrain from replying here till some desissions are made that he is ready to fallow through with...
Last edited by xtreamvette69; 08-19-2013 at 02:37 AM.
Yeah but at least we point out facts!
Just the large cap HET and small cap external coil have differant Latency settings. Aftermarket ones are all over the place with timing. Even GM has 2 with same Latency but net differant spark advance at 3400 RPM... supposedly the MAD is way off?
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
The car had the big original GM distributor with the coil inside and an MSD ignition box.
it is all going back to timming as eagle mark advised 20 pages ago,why don't some one give him a stock bin to start with an forget his tuner,ether his tuner is stupid or no body understands the bin file is [ corrupt] .
just checked the continuity on the O2 sensor and it is 0.1 ohms so that theory checked out ok. I wouldn't doubt if I have a tiny little leak at the y-pipe where the flange gaskets bolt up to the headers and maybe this is throwing the tuners wbo2 sensor off. These shorts headers are very common to leak there at the gasket. My O2 sensor like I said only has about 1000 miles on it and the wiring I now know is ok. Anywho, my main concern right now is the cold start as every $6E bin I tried runs horrible when cold but I will try that test bin that Xtreamvette posted that I never got around to doing yet. Time, time, time, the one thing that money can't buy!
throw away the bin you have an start over,[faster easyer an more efetiont your bin file is cruppted ever where , that is what is wrong]
ps nobody can help you if you don't want to listen , iam done
I would start over but I don`t have the knowledge nor an emulator to tune.
Xtreamvette, I finally got a chance to try out that test bin and the car would barley want to idle and runny really rough. Possible the injector offset table? Looks butchered up! Here is the log for that testbin you gave me.
i dont think anything is corrupt tbh i just think its all wrong.... lets see if cold idle can be fixed in just two bin edits just to try prove a point... i know i know i wasnt going to post anymore replies but ya cant help it..
humor me and try this edit of your tuners bin and post a log and run the log till the o2 is at least at operating temp (when it starts going high and low) then i will make edit 2 and we can see if cold idle improved, sound fun..
kinda a waste of time on a bin we all know is all wrong though, all time that could be spent on a building a better bin but oh well here goes, try this one next cold start. this is just some of the corrections this bin needed and after the log i will edit it more to run good at cold idel, now keep in mind that is all it will be good at as i'm not going to fix the whole bin although i bet these changes will improve alot possibly all across the board atm my goal is only to prove what will fix cold idle...
ohh ok ignore this one for now then let me look over that log you posted
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