I haven't done a dbw harness yet,but subscribing for the great info.
I haven't done a dbw harness yet,but subscribing for the great info.
Found this information at lt1swap.com ( http://www.lt1swap.com/wiringharness.htm ). One relay to supply brake inputs to both TAC and PCM. The wire from the brake switch will need to wired to both (spliced together) with the relay input (termainal 85) and TAC module brake switch input. I've decided to use Hella Relays #75601 relays and Hella connectors #75610. Hella relays are used by the factory. I'm thinking why risk using low cost relays that are not weather proof? Cheap is not good...good is not cheap!
dave w
Last edited by dave w; 09-15-2013 at 07:41 PM.
Thats looks great, nice work.
79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy
93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver
99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.
Thanks!
I do a few extra steps not normally done by others who simplify LS wiring harnesses. I'll solder / splice the connections I make. I use weatherproof relays with a weatherproof fuse panel. I use a thick wall shrink tubing with an adhesive for added insurance against the extremes seen with the underhood environment. I use nylon split loom to wrap the harness, its the same quality split loom as the original harness was wrapped in. The trunk / branch method I use to wrap the harness uses more split loom than the original harness, but provides for a quicker and cleaner looking install. The person I helped with this harness really appreciated the level of service and parts I provided.
dave w
Last edited by dave w; 09-22-2013 at 05:14 PM.
Excellent work Dave, but I would expect nothing less from you. Very clean harness. Some day I will build something with a LS engine and when I do I got your #.
I have been busy building a 64 Ford unibody pickup for my Uncle to take to Good Guys in Fort worth. I c-notched the rear frame and installed a Camaro front clip, I got it down in the weeds and it drives and handles great. All old school stuff no EFI.
image.jpg
Looks nice and clean. Nice work!
CJ-7 ehh, or may be a CJ-5, cant really tell from the pics. Power brakes would definately be the nex thing on my list of things to do after that swap. Lots of go, and not much woah....lol
79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy
93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver
99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.
So what is done with the transmission wires on a standalone harness w/ a manual trans. or a non OD trans.?
Removed from harness? Or, just cut taped up?
Any trans. wires needed to tell the pcm it's a non OD or manual trans.?
What VSS did you use? Is there a cheap speedo cable driven VSS that works in Jeeps? like the TBI 2PRS from jagsthatrun?
Tony
'88 Jeep Grand Wagoneer (aka Babywag)
'67 Jeep J3000
'07 Dodge Magnum SRT8
I removed the wiring from the harness completely,if needed at a later time it can always be added.
keep it in there if you know you'll be switching it up though.
The programming determines the trans type.
Below is thread about using the low cost Dakota Digital VSS. http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...620/prd620.htm
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...gital-SEN-01-1
There is the option of programming the PCM so the VSS is not needed. I recommend using a VSS for any vehicle that will be driven on the street.
dave w
Last edited by dave w; 01-30-2014 at 12:06 AM.
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