the iac is bottomed out trying to lower idle the car thinks its in drive as the park neutral switch mustnt be earthed commanding 500ish rpm idle in gear.when you did have the O2 plugged in it was real rich and pulling all the fuel out that it could
the iac is bottomed out trying to lower idle the car thinks its in drive as the park neutral switch mustnt be earthed commanding 500ish rpm idle in gear.when you did have the O2 plugged in it was real rich and pulling all the fuel out that it could
Trying to understand these statements in depth. Since there is no position feedback from the IAC, the binary file must throw in extra pulses to the IAC to make certain it is closed. Not yet certain whether the IAC motor itself is at fault or power up sequencing is not proper. Not certain that there is a single wire input to the PCM for the park neutral switch. Will have to investigate this. As far as the O2 sensor is concerned, right now it is disconnected so that the PCM cannot go closed loop.
You NEED to have the battery wire connected to the battery. There are certain things that happen AFTER the ignition is shut off that pertains to the IAC and other functions to ensure proper start up up the next time. Fix this first and foremost.
I'm not sure why you want to disable closed loop right now, but you can disable it in the bin by setting the closed loop enable temp to max.
There is a single wire input for the neutral safety switch that needs to see a ground to know that it is either in park or drive. IIRC when grounded the ECM thinks it's in park.
The man who says something is impossible, is usually interrupted by the man doing it.
And if your commanded timing doesn't match actual we have to get back to basics before any tuning.
First you are going to want to follow the factory procedure and set base timing with either the est bypass wire disconnect or diagnostic port jumpered(I don't know the process for this ecu but the USA guys will) also make sure the spark reference setting in the bin matches weather it be 0 or 10 degrees or whatever the bin expects.
Then I would follow the factory base idle speed adjustment which normally involves forcing the ecu to fully close the iacand unplugging it and once again unplugging the est bypass/entering diagnostic mode and setting idle rpm to its base value with no iac or spark compensation modifying rpm.
Then plug the o2 back in and fire it back upland get a log while confirming commanded timing in the datastream matches actual crank degrees
Once the house keeping is finished and squared away tuning will be easier
Last edited by delcowizzid; 03-22-2015 at 08:08 PM.
Unable to find a ECM pin for a discrete for park or drive. Moved the battery input to the battery. Also replaced the IAC motor with new. Ran the engine, then something popped and now sounds like big vacuum leak. Took throttle body off, chunk of gasket gone. Filled the gap with Loctite 509 sealer. Also going to put in smaller injectors to see if the running rich situation gets any better. Smaller injectors are used so condition not known. Will run the engine again tomorrow morning. Debugging, debugging and so on.
E5 should be the correct ECM pin for park/neutral on the '7427
1973 K-5 Blazer, TBI 350, TH400, 1 ton axles & 38" SSRs'
1975 280Z, TBI 350, 700R4
1953 M-38A1, TBI Buick 231
1951 Ford Panel, 5.3 with 4L80E
If you look at this post, it shows to connect the 7747 park neutral wire to E5 when converting to the 7427. There's another post that goes into more detail, but it didn't come up in my quick search.
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...7+park+neutral
There 3 range signals from the transmission going to the 7427, different combinations of these 3 tell the ECM what gear the trans is in. Grounding only E5 tells it that it's in neutral. I don't think there's a wiring diagram that will tell you that, though.
1973 K-5 Blazer, TBI 350, TH400, 1 ton axles & 38" SSRs'
1975 280Z, TBI 350, 700R4
1953 M-38A1, TBI Buick 231
1951 Ford Panel, 5.3 with 4L80E
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