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Thread: Running poorly/misfiring, code 33

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  1. #1
    Fuel Injected! JeepsAndGuns's Avatar
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    Interesting.
    Could a magnetized reluctor cause the issue I am having? And could it cause them intermittently?

    It is kinda hard to describe how I rebuilt the distributor. But pretty much the whole top part is original GM 7 pin. This includes the pin that holds the pickup in pace for proper timing to the posts in the distributor cap.
    Not sure if I would be able to get a good enough picture to without it without completely disassembling it.

    I do actually have a spare reluctor, as when I originally built it, I actually bought two complete (used) distributors off ebay to use for parts.
    I pressed the reluctor off both of the gm shafts since they are the wrong length. One is in the distributor now, the other I kept as a spare.

    I am thinking about swapping the reluctors. I will have to disassemble the distributor, cut the spot weld and then press on the new one and spot weld.
    But if that would fix it, it would be worth it. I would just hate to go through that and it not do anything.
    Only one way to find out.
    79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy

    93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver

    99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.

  2. #2
    Super Moderator dave w's Avatar
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    7 Pin Module, the 8 Pin Module is similar.

    The Reluctor / Pickup Coil produce a small AC signal when the distributor shaft is spinning. Perhaps a wobble / harmonic between the Reluctor / Pickup Coil? Perhaps an uneven gap / runout between the Reluctor / Pickup Coil?

    HEI.PNG

  3. #3
    Fuel Injected! MO LS Noobie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeepsAndGuns View Post
    Interesting.
    Could a magnetized reluctor cause the issue I am having? And could it cause them intermittently?

    It is kinda hard to describe how I rebuilt the distributor. But pretty much the whole top part is original GM 7 pin. This includes the pin that holds the pickup in pace for proper timing to the posts in the distributor cap.
    Not sure if I would be able to get a good enough picture to without it without completely disassembling it.

    I do actually have a spare reluctor, as when I originally built it, I actually bought two complete (used) distributors off ebay to use for parts.
    I pressed the reluctor off both of the gm shafts since they are the wrong length. One is in the distributor now, the other I kept as a spare.

    I am thinking about swapping the reluctors. I will have to disassemble the distributor, cut the spot weld and then press on the new one and spot weld.
    But if that would fix it, it would be worth it. I would just hate to go through that and it not do anything.
    Only one way to find out.
    If you have access to a lab scope, you could "see" the output of the pickup coil

  4. #4
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    would you be able to test the Dizzy on a distributer machine????

  5. #5
    Fuel Injected! JeepsAndGuns's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MO LS Noobie View Post
    If you have access to a lab scope, you could "see" the output of the pickup coil
    Sadly I do not have one and do not know anyone with one.


    I have been digging around in my storage looking for my old original distributor I had in it before this one. I was tempted to swap it back to this distributor and reinstall the 8 pin module and external coil.
    However I have turned it upside down and can not find it anywhere.
    79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy

    93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver

    99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.

  6. #6
    Fuel Injected! JeepsAndGuns's Avatar
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    So on sunday afternoon I had a couple hours to spend some time with it.
    I pulled the distributor, removed the shaft, chucked it up in my lathe, cut the tack welds off and knocked the old reluctor wheel off it.
    I then cleaned the shaft a little and put the spare reluctor wheel on it and tacked it in place.
    I reassembled and inspected. Everything looks normal and I do not see any visible issues.
    I got it started and the base timing re set and tried driving it. No real change.
    The missfire is so light at idle it is hard to tell it is doing it. It is not until you start driving you can feel it. I tried moving and wiggling the wires and grounds and the ecu connectors and wires and could not get any noticeable change. However I can not do that and drive it.
    I was running out of time and took it for another quick drive around the yard and the missfire was cutting in and out.
    79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy

    93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver

    99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.

  7. #7
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    Search for somebody with an oscilloscop or have one for yourself. There are cheap ones on te market used or brand new like hantek.With an oscilloscop you may find where the irritation in the current starts. Old school garages have them too.I do not think its a mechanical problem like a broken valve spring.You would have found it already.

  8. #8
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    I have been watching this post and have some minor thoughts.

    Have you taken a water spray bottle and sprayed the harness down? along with plug wires? a little at a time while running while moving the harness around

    I have seen plug wires go bad and arc out, but I have also found sensors with hair line cracks that let water in, I also found bad wire harness connectors that way as well.

  9. #9
    Fuel Injected! JeepsAndGuns's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mecanicus View Post
    Search for somebody with an oscilloscop or have one for yourself. There are cheap ones on te market used or brand new like hantek.With an oscilloscop you may find where the irritation in the current starts. Old school garages have them too.I do not think its a mechanical problem like a broken valve spring.You would have found it already.

    I am not opposed to buying a o-scope if a decent one can be had for a reasonable price.

    Anyone have any recommendations?
    79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy

    93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver

    99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.

  10. #10
    Fuel Injected!
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    Like already mentioned, if you have a laptop have a look for the hantek1008 or the picoscop 2204 A .The hantek is a 8 channel one while the picoscope has only two channels. Both are about 150 bucks and work pretty well for us nechanics. If you download the picosoftware first, you may see a lot of examples what to measure on a car. Of course you may buy one at a much higher price and become an electronics. :-)

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