the speedo on the ranger I beat around in does that, but I assumed it was normal for all worn cable-driven setups. I could be wrong, but I want to say that in 89 or so, all S/T trucks went to speed sensors rather than cables?
87 4Runner, 15" spring lift, 3" body, chevy vortec 355, 5.29 gears, 38.5x15.5x15" Boggers, 280hr, 16168625 running $0D
93 S10, 36x12.5x15 TSL's, custom turbo headers, 266HR cam, p&p vortec heads, $0D Marine MPFI with 8psi boost.
05 Silverado, 2' lift, 4" exhaust, Bully Dog programmer,
My 93 has a VSS in the tailshaft housing, no cable. If it was cable drive, a new cable would fix it, it normally means the cable is broken in the housing and the broken ends are catching and turning the speedo-not uncommon. When the ends slip apart, the speedo stops.
Supposedly the changeover happened in 88, when the Tachometer went away. I'd love to get a pre-88 cluster, transplant the electronic speedometer, and have a functional tachometer on the dash...
Picked up some 0280155811 injectors this week, 36lb Bosch injectors from an L67 3800 supercharged. Also got a 58psi fuel regulator and rail from a 3400, so I should have plenty of fuel now. Also got some more aluminum stock to make the upper intake, throttle body flange, and the idler pulley bracket.
The injectors are supposedly the same ones in the Corvette ASA tune, so hopefully getting the injector settings correct won't be difficult.
Hmmm, think there is a calibration for a late series II 3800SC in the archives here? I'd love to be able to kick the fueling table up by 1.1 and wire the bypass open on the supercharger to get the flat-tappet cam broken in without errors-that's the biggest worry with a completely new engine build. For a flat-tappet, the really critical bit is getting it to light off and run at least 2000RPM for 20 minutes without washing down the cylinder walls with too much fuel, and not having to crank it over more than once or twice to get it to light off and run-the least amount of cranking needed means the largest amount of assembly lube left on the cam lobes to keep them safe until they're burnished in. If you really have to crank it over a lot before it fires off, the chance of reduced ring sealing or worse still a flat cam lobe goes up exponentially.
I'm thinking I need to figure out what I'd need to change for a 260ish-degree cam, the 3400cc displacement vs 3100cc displacement, and the L67 injectors, make my best guesses for those, and then I'd feel safe about cranking it up.
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