Way cool project :)
I noticed your egr is not connected. If you are using a stock file, when the egr goes active in the calibration it will pull fuel away "thinking" the egr is working. If you have the ability to turn that off in the chip, do so. Otherwise you need to get the egr solenoid in there and hook all that up.
Is it a "new" water pump? Does the temp seem to cycle? One thing I have run across is the wrong backing plate on the water pump and it was cavitating.
-Carl
Thanks for the reply!..... The water pump is new ACDelco from RockAuto......The temp just creeps a couple of degrees at a time, not losing any temp (cycling) as it rises because I have the fan running full time and no thermostat.... My wagon runs 130-160 all the time set up like this with A/C blowing ice cubes in 110 degree weather
I had disconnected and plugged the EGR stuff on my daily (wagon) and it runs fine so I didn't even run wires for the solenoid..... (mistake, I guess)..... I also don't have the stuff for the Air injection in place...... And the exhaust is bullet glass-packs after the 1-wire oxygen sensor in the right pipe (only reading one side)....I guess I should pull spark plugs and look for lean-ness.....
This radiator was listed as being for a big-block early Camaro and looks very nicely put together, but I'm suspicious (chinese)..... I've ordered a 32lb cap for the radiator itself because the engine's fill level is quite a bit higher (16 lb cap on t-stat housing).....
Are you saying the EGR stuff needs to be fully operational to provide richness that the ECM is pulling? Is there an external work-around other than a re-flash?...
Is 17 degrees of timing at no-load idle okay (?) as that is where zero degrees in base timing puts me when I re-connect the link.....I always set about 8 degrees in the carbureted era.....Can timing be backed out physically, or does the ECM just put it back?
I realize these are kind of noob questions..... I'm not really a "tuner", I just want the van to run reliably without further thought once I got it dialed in.....
I'd be okay with buying a reflashed chip, but I really haven't studied up on reliable sources.... Any suggestions?
Right now I'm limited to within six blocks of home and it feels like house arrest!...
Last edited by AzDon; 10-02-2022 at 05:00 AM.
Are you saying it has heating problems even at idle? The egr is only active at light throttle. Shoot me the alphanumeric broadcast code that is on the silver sticker on the chip.
-Carl
What's the part number on the water pump and what application did you order it for?
The water pump is AC Delco 88926233 ordered for 91 Caprice (serpentine reverse rotation)....
The ECM is 16136965 with a four letter code of AYDM
I haven't pulled the cover to look at the chip yet.....
The two episodes of building heat were during test drives around the neighborhood which is easy driving under 35 mph.....Next I will try just starting it and allowing it to idle....
Driving it would also put transmission heat on the radiator....
I forgot to mention that I do have a remote oil cooler mounted away from and completely divorced from the radiator.....
I think I'll check everything with an infrared thermometer and I might try knocking the timing back a couple of degrees....
No thermostat will do that. Water passes so fast it can't transfer the heat. If you don't want a thermostat gut the center out of one for a restriction. That should fix the issue
So, A bit more background...
The radiator is in the factory location, but lowered 3 inches and has an aluminum under-scoop that is the width of the chassis out to the front leaf hangers.... It has an electric fan from an 84 z28 on a custom shroud with no gaps....The engine is 18 inches back and maybe an inch lower than stock and has a factory serpentine rotation 7 blade fan with a clutch, basically there to move air through.... I built the doghouse extra large and aero inside to help move air through.....I gutted a thermostat and re-installed the disc to partially restrict the flow, but mainly to provide a proper sealing surface for the gasket....
The electric fan turns on automatically at 190 and off when it cools to 174..... the sensor for that is screwed into the heater-hose port near the distributor.....
I did an idling test, in gear against the e-brake....
It took 25 minutes to reach 190 and turn the fan on
2 minutes to cool back to 174
3 minutes to hit 190 again
2 minutes to 174
turned the fan manual switch on and it dropped to 158 in about 5 minutes
put it in neutral and it got to 152 about 4 minutes later....
Never went past 190 for this test because the fan kicks on and it apparently has enough cooling capacity to idle...never lost a drop of water from either 16 lb cap.....
It's low-stall, so it did have some load and a bit of transmission heat........
It's 95 degrees here as I'm doing this test.....
I guess my issues only show up when I'm driving it around the neighborhood which is max 35 mph...
I'm going to try a 32 lb cap on the radiator (16 Lb cap at the t-stat housing fill) and a locked fan clutch first and then probably pull a couple of degrees of timing before trying a divorced trans cooler and some kind of heater core hanging under the van.....I'm also willing to consider that I need a modified chip with EGR and A.I.R functions erased.....
You already knew where I was going with this...Originally Posted by AzDon
I used to argue that point on other forums but there's been a lot of convincing argument that supports moving the coolant quicker through the passages only aids in cooling.
Have you verified coolant flow and make sure you don't have any collapsing radiator hoses.
I did check out your AWESOME build thread int post #14 to maybe get a clue...thinking perhaps the way the radiator sits in the van, it looks like the incoming air from the grill could possibly go around the radiator and not through it...but now you're saying this is happening while sitting there at idle???
Yeah as it was already discussed^^^if you're sitting there at idle 17 degrees that's what the PCM is adding to your initial of 0. Change the initial to 2 degrees, your datalog would report 17 but with the 2 degree initial it would actually be 19.
The entire drivetrain and ECM came out of a wagon that was identical to my daily driver that was crashed but drivable and it didn't overheat..... I run my daily driver with a gutted thermostat here in 115 degree weather and a locked fan clutch blowing ice cubes from the A/C and it rarely runs above 160 degrees....This has not been the first vehicle I have anecdotally proven cooler running without the t-stat, but it is the first with fuel injection....
I'm dreadfully old-school, so I can only see timing with a timing light, but I do have one that I can advance...I'll try knocking back the timing a couple of degrees and a good flush before pursuing extra coolers, but I think that's where this is going...
UPDATE:
So without disconnecting the base timing plug I timed the 17 degrees back to 11 degrees (Taking it to eleven!... Spinal Tap reference)
I also hooked a couple of ball valves and garden hoses into the heater hose system and flushed several times during and between about six heating cycles...The water runs clear, but it doesn't appear that either of these chores has changed anything...
I have a 30 stacked plate trans cooler ( 10"x10") ordered that I will put an electric fan on and I'm also going to order two heater cores (6x8 each) to add extra coolant/cooling capacity.... There is tons of space underneath for as many heater cores as it takes to get a large enough percentage of the coolant outside of the engine being cooled...
Last edited by AzDon; 10-04-2022 at 11:39 PM.
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