Need a new engine...questions...

[Rally Smith]

I doubt you'll see any performance change with tuning out the egr on that motor. as far as doing port work on that with that small of a cam... throwing a hotdog down a hallway comes to mind...

Now THAT's Funny!

[Rally Smith]

I'm still laughing at the "Hotdog down a hallway comment".

I was debating going this way http://www.jegs.com/i/GM-Performance...99529/10001/-1 but I don't think it has all of the predrilled and tapped holes for my mounting brackets in the front.

[dyeager535]

Pretty honest description of the motor in that link, I'm surprised! But thats good.

You can read the discussions on the thirdgen.org diy-prom forum if you want to listen to the back and forth on EGR. I've turned it off and not seen any change in economy to denote that it does anything one way or the other, which is IMO the ultimate test if you aren't measuring the exhaust gas pollutants. :)

I don't think I'd mess with a crate motor one iota. It probably voids whatever warranty they are offering if you read closely. If you want performance without breaking into the engine, go with headers. I'm a Hedman fan, if you want to shell out good money, they probably sell stainless headers for that application, but the elite series seem to be pretty good, although I'm not sold on coatings at all, mine hasn't lasted as I expected, even though I did overheat them at one point. When these rust out (or before, if I think they won't keep making them) I'll go with stainless.

[Rally Smith]

I've got headers and true dual exhaust, 2 1/2" all the way back and an open element K&N.

[PJG1173]

I wouldn't mind one of these for my truck http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...2&autoview=SKU

[EagleMark]

Yeah that would do it! I was trying to figure out the calibration for how much fuel it would need, when I got about half what was needed I realized it would be less then 1 MPG with enough fuel to supply engine...

[Rally Smith]

I wouldn't mind one of these for my truck http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...2&autoview=SKU

THAT'S PERFECT! I don't know what I was thinking. As long as I can run the 87 octane on it, I'm in!

[Rally Smith]

I would like to get this engine but when I look at the passenger side head there is a mounting hole missing for my a/c bracket. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NA...9529/?rtype=10
there is a spot to drill and tap it, but I don't know that that is a very good idea. That's the only thing that is keeping me from pulling the trigger on it. How difficult would it be to drill a 3/4" deep hole into the head?

[Rally Smith]

Any idea why the manufacturer would say that this engine is not intended to be used with EFI? http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results...umber=12499529

[EagleMark]

Any idea why the manufacturer would say that this engine is not intended to be used with EFI? http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/results...umber=12499529

1. The heads have the conventional 12 bolt intake manifold attaching design used from 1955 through late 1980?
2. 326 lb-ft of torque @ 3750 RPM
3. Duration @ .050" (222°Int/222° Exh)
4. That engine sucks compared to next one up with more HP and lower tourqe RPM.

As a rule of thumb EFI cams can be tuned with Flat Tappet Duration @ .050" (214°Int/224° Exh) little less on engines smaller then 350ci and a little more on engines more then 350ci

Yes bigger cams can be tuned it just a lot more work.

[PJG1173]

id stay away from anything with a 2 piece rear seal. stick with motors intended to be used in 86 or newer vehicles so your accessories, flywheel, etc will fit.

[EagleMark]

I would like to get this engine but when I look at the passenger side head there is a mounting hole missing for my a/c bracket. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NA...9529/?rtype=10
there is a spot to drill and tap it, but I don't know that that is a very good idea. That's the only thing that is keeping me from pulling the trigger on it. How difficult would it be to drill a 3/4" deep hole into the head?

If your just going to get a stock engine rebuild why don't you look locally for engine rebuilders or an Auto Parts store? Or just pick one that will bolt into your truck from all these online stores? Or call Spaldings Auto Wreckers in Spokane and get a used engine with known milage and warrenty from wrecked truck, they deliver to Montana. I have a freind that works there and know that their reputation is excellent, they do not cut corners on selling engines with warranties, if it does not run or has an issue it is parted. Buy a complete motor and drop it in, poof your done and have an engine leftover to build for a toy.

[Rally Smith]

Well guys, here's what I ended up getting. http://www.jegs.com/i/GM+Performance...20270/10002/-1 Pathetic, I know. But just to make sure I get the EGR turned off correctly. I want to double check the procedure. Do all I need to do is turn the EGR off under the Flags area? If not, where else? Also will I have any issues with the EGR solenoid not plugged in? On the TBI do I just put a plug over the vac stems?

Thanks

[dyeager535]

Well guys, here's what I ended up getting. http://www.jegs.com/i/GM+Performance...20270/10002/-1 Pathetic, I know. But just to make sure I get the EGR turned off correctly. I want to double check the procedure. Do all I need to do is turn the EGR off under the Flags area? If not, where else? Also will I have any issues with the EGR solenoid not plugged in? On the TBI do I just put a plug over the vac stems?

Thanks

Going with a known product like a GM crate motor, you really can't go wrong. Yes, it's not a bundle of horsepower, but if you get ~100,000 trouble free miles out of the thing, that's pretty valuable.

Don't know about everyone else here, but any modifications I have done to my motor have resulted/created a lot of extra work and expense...replacing with a like motor would have made my life easier. Not unhappy about the choices I've made (for the most part, but hindsight is always 20/20) but I do realize I've made a lot of headaches for myself.

So if I were you, I wouldn't feel like I made a bad choice buying a "stock" crate motor.

Never been a fan of those vacuum plugs, I like to take the hose nipple out and tap it for a set screw.

Most bin's I've dealt with I believe there are multiple ways to disable EGR. I'd do an item find (if TP4 or 5) and anything that related to EGR enable (temp, TPS, speed, etc.) I would set the enable values outside of anywhere the engine would ever be. I believe to verify you "killed" EGR, you'd just drive the vehicle while datalogging, and make sure that the EGR duty cycle remains 0 all the time.

[jameslleary]

Good choice, but you are aware you got the 3/4 ton engine, right? Rated at 190hp, but the torque is the same. Keep the egr since you are going with this engine, no reason to shut it off, or block it off, and you wont gain anything, but maybe some detonation. I may grab this engine for my Suburban once i get back to work and save some money.
install, and enjoy!

PS-We want video of the first start up!