If its a stock style regulator, the threads shouldn't be exposed to fuel. You could use some light duty loctite on the threads of the adjustment screw.
If its a stock style regulator, the threads shouldn't be exposed to fuel. You could use some light duty loctite on the threads of the adjustment screw.
Thanks for pointing that out, I have since learned more about this unit. It's been sent back to the guy who sold it to me, he adjusted it and confirmed the adjustable fuel pressure regulator was good.
I have set the FP to 15psi, and put the stock memcal back into it. That hasn't helped at all, I have to check timing next.
What do you think about the state of the distributor cap and rotor? This is with about 10k miles on it.
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Okay here's another update. It's idling high, around 1900. The TPS voltage with throttle closed is 0.6V. The TBI is whistling very loudly, a piercing whistle, when the throttle is closed. I was able to make a log file, starting it from nearly cold, getting it to closed loop mode was possible while idling because of the high idle. Then drove it, but tried driving it without giving it any gas really. Then turned around and drove it a bit with around 15% throttle. The driving starts around 6m mark on the log.
I hope the file upload worked properly. The bin is a custom one, based on BNKM, and I am using a definition file for $31.
How can I get the idle down to where it should be?
Is it normal for the knock retard to stay so consistently around 6 deg?
Other items, I checked manifold vacuum and it's in the green around 21 in Mg on my gage with this high idle. When I put it in gear, the idle drops, and then it shows in the red zone, indicating late ignition timing, only around 15 in Hg Vac
One more update. I went out again and made a 2nd log, with more throttle, and got onto the freeway briefly. it runs like crap. Tons of knock.
I noticed a few things when I looked at the parameter list, instead of the dashboard.
Knock counts are off the charts, getting up to 50k and reseting every few seconds.
When I come to a stop, the spark advance shows 23 thousand and change, that doesn't seem right.
The check engine light came on at a stop light while the vehicle was stopped. I haven't yet figured out how to see which code was generated yet.
I'm all ears to feedback and what to try next!
Thanks all!
Found the error codes.
35 - IAC Failure
54 - Fuel Pump Relay Failure
Just replayed your log file. Your bin file appears to be $E6 instead of $0D. That is why you are seeing the constant knock retard. As for your high Idle, you either have the throttle stop screw open too far or you have a vacuum leak. You are getting an IAC failure because the IAC is closing completely and the pcm cannot control the idle. There are some odd things going on with the spark advance. The beginning of the log looks normal. As the log progresses, I see the timing drop from ~20 degrees down to ~5 degrees with it still idling in park. At another point, I see the spark advance pegged at 50 degrees. The PCM uses timing to help control idle speed but this seems extreme. Adjust the minimum air adjustment screw to where you have approximately 10 IAC counts at hot idle in park. You will have to power the key off and wait a few seconds for the pcm to power down so the pcm can relearn the closed throttle position. You will know when the PCM is powered down if you leave the data dash up when you key off. Tuner pro will start flashing DA Not connected at the bottom of the window. It will reconnect as soon as you key on again. It would be nice if you could read the chip and post a copy of your bin. The relay failure is a signal back into the PCM from the fuel pump relay on pin B12 of the red PCM connector. Make sure you have battery voltage on this pin with the engine running. Clear your PCM codes before adjusting the minimum air screw on the throttle body if you don't have a vacuum leak.
Thanks,
Brian
Thanks for checking it!
I have been looking for a vacuum leak, but haven't found any. All the hoses are connected from what I can tell.
I've uploaded my bin. I thought it was a $31. The vehicle is a 1995 G30, with a 5.7L and 4L80E. Engine isn't stock...
I will look into IAC...
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