I looked at the adx I posted, the desired afr is actually battery voltage unless you do something with the bin. Its under the ADX editor under values. I never messed with it as I knew it was wonky. So don't let that confuse you.
I looked at the adx I posted, the desired afr is actually battery voltage unless you do something with the bin. Its under the ADX editor under values. I never messed with it as I knew it was wonky. So don't let that confuse you.
The reason for the crazy numbers in the adx is you have the initial advance in the bin set at 19 degrees when the math in the adx thinks its 0. Personally I would not go over 10 initial. That's just my opinion. I would also set the initial at zero for a test then set the entire table to a fixed number like 10 and get out there when warm and check the actual timing with an accurate light. Just as a test to make sure what you think is going on is happening. I will keep looking, to see if I spot anything. You also need to set the math in the adx to match your initial timing if it is not 0. Also put maximum spark retard back where it is at from the factory. I had some weird things like that show up and Fast355 suggested to leave those areas alone. They do affect the timing but sometimes not like you think. I ran myself in a circle trying to figure those out, and in the end just left them be. It looks like your AE settings are stock. With your cam and heads you will need some more. There are pages of info here about that, its trial and error.
Last edited by donf; 09-17-2019 at 02:56 AM.
After looking I think your AE being stock may have been the hiccup. I am not there so I cant see or hear what all is going on. First thing I would do is the bin with a 0 degree initial setting and a fixed timing. You have to set the initial timing with the spout connector unplugged. Pick a number you can read on the balancer scale though for the fixed timing tables. Check with a good timing light. If that stays steady when warm though the rpm range try the test bin I am attaching and reset the initial to 10. You can do a compare to see what I changed, just a few things I took from my work and transferred over. The AE though is more than mine, you may need more or less but your engine is more aggressive than mine. Definitely will not need stock AE settings. Re do the adx math to show the 10 degrees so you get a closer picture. I do not think this is perfect just seeing if I can point you in the right direction for more work.
Last edited by donf; 09-17-2019 at 04:07 AM.
I pulled the spark plugs and used a piston stop to make sure of TDC, set bin and ADX at 0 and uploaded to octrich, set timing to 0 at dist w/ esc wire unhooked, IAC was sucking air ,so I adjusted and lowered counts, shut it down, reconnected esc wire, and disconnected battery to clear code. When I started it the timing stayed steady at all throttle positions, but the 23000 glitch did pop up slightly. So I loaded the test bin and set timing at 10 BTDC, set ADX to 10 BTDC and went driving. Same things happening. Almost no throttle response.ff.xdl 50% throttle and no power
The 2300 in the timing advance will show up if you do not modify the adx for your initial advance. Its a logging error and has nothing to do with the way your car is running. Go to the little gears in the middle of tuner pro. That is the ADX editor. Click the values and go down to spark advance. Click on Spark Advance. At the bottom of the box that opens there will be a tab called conversion. Click that. Up at the top is the Equation. the +0.0000 is where you have to add your initial timing offset to log correctly. It sounds like the timing is staying at what you set it. Feel free to adjust the timing as you wish. I think though that having to run that much initial timing like 19 is covering up for something wrong that we cant see though the computer screen. Once you find out what that is you may have better results with not so crazy high initial advance.
So we got the timing checked and you think its doing what its supposed to. Have you ever done a exhaust back pressure test? Its a little adapter I got from the snap-on truck that screws in the o2 sensor hole. Hook a pressure gauge to it. I found a lot of bad exhaust that way. Your log file ff.xdl was way too short and too erratic to tell much of anything. It looks like you have some lean spots though. The 2300 advance bug is a distraction. If you are doing logs to post for others to look at try to hold in one block until it stops adjusting, then move to the next block. You can never get it perfect on the street. Jumping all over for 60 seconds does not produce accurate data for the spreadsheet either. Not trying to harp on you. I know this is very trying.
So just trying to figure out this from a computer screen. Dont worry about throttle response at first. Get the fuel tables dialed in with nice slow throttle movements. I am not sure how many hills Florida has, if you have any close, the hill and a little bit of brake dragging (don't over heat them) will help keep your speed in check and allow you to stay in the individual cells for a longer time. When you get it running decent just driving like a grandma then gradually build out your fuel tables with more load. I actually found that dragging my 5000lb trailer up a few long hills with low traffic was awesome for the nice slow rpm increases for looking at fuel tables under load. You could need more AE, or more timing, or you could have another problem, but so far I have not seen a nice slow log with lots of data over most of the fuel table that shows you have the base tables close yet. They may be, but I cant tell. If someone sees something I missed feel free to jump in.Originally Posted by dhworkin
mmm.xdl When it goes lean at a slow cruse there is a surge, and that happens with the timing at distributor set to 20 BTDC as well. It backfired thru the throttle body if I gave it to much throttle on this log
OK that mmm xdl was a lot better, jumping around wise. I would work on getting your block learn numbers to run closer to 128. Lower is the computer pulling fuel, higher is the computer adding fuel. Some have mentioned the wide band does not always agree, but at least with my TBI they were very close. Watch the counts if the data seems out of wack. If its low on counts I would probably discard and hand edit that cell. Its worth a shot to see if you can make improvements in the drivability. I doubt this is all your problems but its a direction.
mmm.jpg
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