DIY LTCC or similar system for LT1s

[spfautsch]

So maybe use the low res as a trigger to dump the pattern.

That was exactly what I had in mind.

It will be so much better just to cut a new opti wheel with the correct pattern.

Maybe. Maybe not. There's a reason the OEMs moved the reluctor wheels to the crank when OBD2 was mandated. I suspect that reason was timing chain slop / harmonics.

Testing a signal generator will be simple bench task with a ls1 pcm on hand. If it sees signal it should output rpm on the data bus.

I don't anticipate porting this to a opti > 24x converter will be a big undertaking since most of the work is already there. But I'm not going to buy a 0411 PCM for a test bench piece. If I have time I'll try to work something up - but right now I'm fairly overwhelmed with home repair projects, a daily driver needing a new cat and flex pipe, and the prospect of building my engine. I don't anticipate having an abundance of free time until April.

[vilefly]

Well, with the 1x cam output, one could mount or buy a 24x crank reluctor while using a 0411 pcm. As years go by, and 2007-up pcms get hacked, one will probably want to switch to the 58x (60-2) reluctor, but there will always be need for the 1x signal.
Someone posted this in another forum. The accuracy will have to be checked with the waveform pattern.
Attachment 13850
I am fighting to find some time to acquire a (58x) vs (#1 tdc) vs (injector #1) vs (cam) scope pattern from a 2007 sierra 5.3L "3" engine. There are none online. I intend to fix that. The pcm connectors are a pain to backprobe. Very dense wiring connectors. If more time allows, I will try to scope the injectors during starting to check for double-fire or sequential mode operation, if I can.
It is now posted under " 2007 6.0L LY6 crank and cam signal waveforms "

[spfautsch]

Once again back to the original thread topic, sort of...

It's alive!!! Wideband installed and working. No tune / ignition controller changes from where I last ran it 4 months ago, and it started on the first crank like it never missed a beat.

Planning to test drive tomorrow with latest 0.9.15 development code and hopefully have some positive news relevant to fixing the stumble that was happening at the transition ranges where dwell + spark advance landed near 90 degree multiples. Hope the weather cooperates - it snowed earlier today.

[vilefly]

How did the test drive go for you? Still stumbling?

[spfautsch]

Of course it is...

Problem isn't completely solved but it's definitely different. I would use the term "better" but I didn't want to push the engine. I think I'm going to have to put a standard volume oil pump in because with a 58 psi relief spring I have 50 at idle and 70+ around 2000 rpm and I don't want to rupture the oil filter. Bearing clearances were around 0.003 and I have a few other oil system mods so I thought it would be ok. I wanted to use melling's "in between" pump that's only 10% more volume, but found out through trial and error it requires a deeper oil pan.

I'm working on assembling my spare opti to use on the bench so I can run it steadily at the first transition point instead of trying to debug while driving. But as is usually the case life keeps getting in the way. Daily driver problems, and a garage door opener that's too smart for it's own good and is about to become the victim of some buckshot rounds I've been itching to test fire.

Hoping to have time to get test bench rig working today.

[Terminal_Crazy]

Yes... we’ve all got shit going on like that.
I had to drive my car out on call as the wife had borrowed the works van.
About 35 mile run each way.
Car ran great. Finished about midnight, drove home.
Hadn’t plugged in the laptop supply and it had shut down by the time i got home.

Went out last night. 10 miles from home the clutch took a dump.
Motor wasn’t happy trying to bump start it on the tow rope.
So that’s this weekends fun.

Mitch

[vilefly]

Introducing 0W-0 motor oil! It's less fattening and better tasting! Guaranteed to shorten the life of any motor!
Just kidding. I have seen my fair share of crazy mods to get around dropping the oil pan at the racetrack. One guy added a bleed off valve at the sending unit port and it went to the dipstick for a drain. He drove a chevy. Another guy cut a hole in his oil pan and put a pipe plug in it, so he could get to a bolt he had threaded into the back of the oil pump pressure relief, so he could adjust the pressure as needed. He drove a ford.
From these guys, I learned that a stock pump on a new engine works just fine. Minimum pressure at the racetrack was 1 psi per 100rpm.
I miss those days at KCIR raceway. The rich people moving into the area made complaints about the noise, and got it shut down. Johnson County scum that they are. It is my plan to sell them cute windmill houses......without the braking system........."and all the bad people floated away".