1994 F body pcm for 1996 Y body obd II to obd I conversion?

[kur4o]

The ccm drives the digital display on the dash, so it is likely to not work when you pull the fuse.
I suggest you make an idle traffic log with obd1 pcm and with the obd2 pcm and post it. I will see what is exchanged and can the obd1 pcm be hacked, to send the same data format.

The vss should work, but I noticed that sensor pins are reversed. On 95 pin a goes to low, and pin b goes to high. On 96 pin a goes to high and pin b goes to low. The wires color coding is the same though.
As a last resort you can switch the pins on the vss connector.

EDIT
I just realized that the code is for the vss output signal.

The wire goes to ccm, cruise, radio and real time damping module, so it is not clear what happens with the signal when you turn the ccm off.

[Lockdun1]

Without it plugged I don’t think it gets the signal resistance is needs and since I can’t datalog properly with it hooked up testing what the problem is well.... problematic. I’m pretty sure it’s that though when I first hook up the cable and pull the fuses it’s not shooting the code it only comes on later after they have been out for a bit . I have the new knock sensor in hand but it decided to rain today so getting to my buddy’s shop isn’t happening. Hopefully sometime this week and then it’ll be perfect. Afr is good ,Timing was dumbed down for 91 octane and I’m running 93 so even without me letting it pull timing at the moment it should be fine.

[lionelhutz]

I zero'd out all the knock retard stuff on my engine. With the roller rockers and headers it was retarding the timing to the max almost any time the pedal was being pushed.

From my understanding, the only way to change when knock is detected is by changing the knock filter. There are claims the knock detection can be tuned, but it's really just tuning how fast it retards timing and how much it retards timing. I didn't see anything for the thresholds of knock or anything like that.

No-one knows what's inside the knock filters and the LT4 filters are stupidly priced these days. I'm sure it could be possible to reverse engineer the filter since it's likely a passive component filter, but I can't be bothered. I tuned it fairly safely and am aggressive with the transmission so it doesn't lug the engine to reduce the chances of actually having knock.

[Lockdun1]

Sweet I have em tuned out still. What I will say it was cutting out on me before the swap at random places at wot before and still was with the new pcm so I had a look in the tank and it was fubar ,someone must have not liked the P.O. because the tank has crap in it that is not rust. Tank surface is clean but there was a lot of black powdery junk that had to have been put in. I need a new pump and another filter. I changed the injectors and filter when I got is because they were jacked up. Something corroded the filter and it had come apart on the inside. Maybe it’s filter elemaent idk but I need a new pump and to clean the system before I can do anything else.