I did that today, but I wouldn't recommend using either of the wheels I have as a pattern.
Extremely disappointed with the remanned distributor base. I had high hopes of it being worthwhile b/c it was expensive for only a base, was described as a delco-remy and the rebuilder riveted their name to it so I assumed they were proud of their work. They shouldn't be - it was a remmaned aftermarket piece of garbage that I'm probably going to try to return. The trigger wheel had C4105-11 etched on it. The bearing was tight, but sounded like an egg beater when spun like the hub had been pressed in without supporting the center race. The optical sensor was marked J520.
To add insult to injury, when I put it on to test the low res signal was extremely inconsistent. The controller would lose track of whether it was on or off because it was giving multiple edge triggers. I seriously doubt it would have ran had I installed this in-car and tried starting it.
Out of curiosity I tried the old optical sensor that was in mine when I bought the car (that was setting a DTC for loss of hi res). I observed the same type of erratic behavior on the hi-res output.
The only positive that came of it is that the trigger wheel gave slightly better results. I put it in my distributor base because I didn't like the way my "good" AIP sensor fit in the aftermarket base. Timing was still skewed but the difference between cyl 6 and 8 was consistently 3 degrees instead of 4 with the 3001277 wheel. Putting both wheels on the hub and aligning them carefully I was able to observe differences in the size of the low res cutouts, albeit with a magnifying glass. Most were towards the indexed side of the slot, but #8 was on the TDC side.
I did quite a bit of experimenting with the mechanics of the opti today (mines a gen 2 vented). I found that removing the o-rings from the shaft made it obvious there's some slop between the cam dowel and the hub. Enough that I could consistently make the high res signal change state by wiggling the rotor back and forth. The o-rings damp this slop somewhat, until they get hard. I didn't have a chance to dig out my original cam and check the dowel diameter (think it's supposed to be .250"). But if the aftermarket cam dowel is within tolerance this would illustrate how big of a design flaw this is, and why most of the newer engines have the degree wheels integral to the crank casting.
I also removed the hub on my old opti to try and find sizes on the bearing. The grease seals on it were marked 6903-RS but it's obviously a custom-order bearing - the outer race has an integral shoulder for the retaining ring. Without this shoulder it would be dimensionally identical to a 6903 bearing (17x30x7) but didn't bother measuring the diameter of the shoulder.
Without more test subjects to confirm or disprove whether the timing skew I'm observing is common, I'm not terribly happy with the state of things so I'm back to looking for a source for an original degree wheel to test. That, or I dump another 5 bennys and a quarter on a dynaspark.
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