If anyone's after an obd2 shell and a ttl-usb board to make an aldl cable I have some spares here will post worldwide
If anyone's after an obd2 shell and a ttl-usb board to make an aldl cable I have some spares here will post worldwide
Sorry...to quick on the post. I see that another user recommended it.
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9718
Last edited by tony-baroni; 12-25-2017 at 02:01 AM.
I have not used that cable, but I have used their breakout PCB and that works.. So I would tend to think this one works just the same
-=Jeff=-
1990 Corvette ZR-1
Black/Red Interior
Hello fellas. Quick thanks to all of you who take the time to share your ideas, research, opinions, and results. Especially with remarkable patience. The Internet can be a very dismal place with most forums having rude and disrespectful bullies which ruin it for most. It's very refreshing to stumble upon this one and see that's there's more compassion and understanding than egos and machismo. Y'all get an 'ata boy !
Now onto my problem. I read through countless threads on here and gathered what I need to make my OBD1 to USB connection. I bought a FTDI232 that came with a connecting cable. Before I soldered the Rx to the Tx, and since I am only interested in receiving, I figured I'd see if it worked without it. It does. Sort of. My problem is that I can see the raw data rolling through but, I do not have any sensor data. I am using WinAldl. Should my Baud be set at 4800 instead of the default 2400 ? Also, on the main screen within WinAldl there's little box, top center, to the left of the Configuration button, it is flashing red and changing numerals. I looked at many different instructions, including the readme.txt that came with the program, yet I can't find any info about that little box and what the numerals mean. I did notice in his instructional screen shots that he has 20 in his, where mine was changing from 5,4,3, and 2 randomly. Any help would be much appreciated
1990 G20 5.7 LO5 Vin K
ECM - 1227747 86ASDU
WinAldl.JPG
Here's a screenshot of the program while it was hooked to my van.
Unless someone else can share their success story with WINALDL...here's the unfortunate details post #31...you can skip all the schematics and drop down to the update at the bottom of that post.
Last edited by stew86MCSS396; 02-12-2018 at 09:01 AM.
Dang. Another forum to decipher lol. So it seems I did not find the info, until now, that says the FTD232 won't work on the 160 Baud. So should I explore TunerRT or get a different board to work with WinAldl ? Is there a better program that I should use ?
All I am really after is some data logging and/or reading real time info so I can figure out this crazy intermittent problem I am having. After the remedy I want to explore tuning and prom burning but, if I can't figure out this issue, I'm going to switch heads, intake, cam, and slap a carb on this thing. I'm not real keen on a computer controlling my engine but, I like the idea of having the ECM monitor and correct the air/fuel ratio. It would be a first for me as this 1990 is the newest vehicle I've owned.
Guys I've got a strange issue that I've never seen before.
I killed my old DIY ALDL cable that was great for about 4 years by soaking it in coffee and then accidentally sending it through the dryer. Had to order a new FT232.
with the new FT232, if I leave it plugged into the ALDL socket but don't have it attached to my phone, the FT232 still lights up. I've never seen this before. I assume the ALDL socket provides power, but my old cable never lit up showing power when attached just to the socket.
Can I fix this with just a diode on the ground wire?
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