Starting to Learn on 95 G30 5.7 for Towing

[donf]

Thank you for the reply, yes its odd drive train wise, but https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/doc...olet-G-Van.pdf lists it on page 3 4l60e in g30 under 8600lbs gvw. It's a very clean, low miles van so that's why I purchased it, even with its substandard drivetrain. The reason for considering the 165cc Dart head is I have used them before for towing on another vehicle and they flow very well. Intake Port Flow: 232 cfm @ .500” Lift / 28” Exhaust Port Flow: 138 cfm @ .500” Lift/ 28” is from the sales propaganda. They actually do these numbers and a little more when touched up with cartridge rolls. I will not need any more head than this for what I am doing. Some confuse the darts with world products offerings. World's small heads are very rough and have poor stock type chambers.The block is a roller compatible, borescopes through the distributor hole are great. At least all the parts in the valley are fully machined for a roller, so I am hoping the part behind the timing chain is done too. I have the ramjet cam, so that's probably what it will get, but I appreciate the advise. Right now I am more concerned with learning the programming part, the mechanical stuff can change.

[Fast355]

Thank you for the reply, yes its odd drive train wise, but https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/doc...olet-G-Van.pdf lists it on page 3 4l60e in g30 under 8600lbs gvw. It's a very clean, low miles van so that's why I purchased it, even with its substandard drivetrain. The reason for considering the 165cc Dart head is I have used them before for towing on another vehicle and they flow very well. Intake Port Flow: 232 cfm @ .500” Lift / 28” Exhaust Port Flow: 138 cfm @ .500” Lift/ 28” is from the sales propaganda. They actually do these numbers and a little more when touched up with cartridge rolls. I will not need any more head than this for what I am doing. Some confuse the darts with world products offerings. World's small heads are very rough and have poor stock type chambers.The block is a roller compatible, borescopes through the distributor hole are great. At least all the parts in the valley are fully machined for a roller, so I am hoping the part behind the timing chain is done too. I have the ramjet cam, so that's probably what it will get, but I appreciate the advise. Right now I am more concerned with learning the programming part, the mechanical stuff can change.

That makes sense. Dart is marketed more for performance and World more stock replacement stuff for mass rebuilders.

Also you learn something new everyday. Never had seen a 4L60E 1-ton but apparantly they did in fact exist. I would atleast treat it to a Transgo HD2 shift kit and Corvette apply servo to make sure it is up to handling the additional power. I put those in both my brothers 1999 Suburban and 1999 Tahoe. Really made it shift much nicer before I touched the line pressure, shift-time settings or torque management. Atleast you have the good 9.5" 14-bolt semi-float rather than the 8.5.

The programming is not too hard. You likely have BJYN and I have read a stock one and it was at one point in time in the $0D .bin section on this site.

To support more power you are going to want to change the fuel pump (I use a 1993ish CPI Astro pump) and pickup an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Even a stock TBI engine responds well to a solid 14 psi of fuel pressure. I have seen them stock running anywhere between 9 psi and 14 psi. The ones running at 9-12 psi run like dogs. They are much happier at 13-14 psi. Once you start making airflow changes it can take as much as 30 psi to feed the 350 with the stock 61# injectors.

I would run through the basics first. Verify your timing is set at TDC or 0°. Then check the fuel pressure and make sure you have 13-14 psi. Good wires, cap, rotor, and AC Delco plugs are a must. Finally it would never hurt to start with a clean fuel filter and air filter to make sure the engine is getting fuel and air adequately. Finally remove the TB, clean the IAC, clean the PCV passageways and replace the TBI base gasket so it all is in good shape. I always make sure the mechanical is up to spec before I ever touch the tuning. I prefer to run these engines a bit cooler than they run from the factory and tun a 180°F or preferably 170°F thermostat, especially if I am going to crank up the timing, run it hard, and tow with it.

[donf]

Thank you for the help, yes the worst part of the setup is the weak transmission. I have a new separator plate and shift kit in there along with the sonnax boost valve. It's been in there for over a year and does fine. I don't trust it though being a 95 with a weak sun shell and 20 years is a long time for transmission seals in a marginal transmission, so it's on the to do list in a month or two. It's better to freshen things up then sit by the freeway with a trailer on. I have the updated parts setting on the shelf. It shouldn't take too long to pull it one weekend and go through it. The van is in great shape mechanically. It was a fleet vehicle for an electric outfit and the owner had this one so it mostly sat in their shop. I did all the maintenance on it for years when I worked for an independent repair shop. The thermostat is a 190 currently, but I do have a 180 for it when the cam goes in. I do have a new big block fuel pump I plan on installing too. That was information I read here a few weeks ago.

Mostly at this point it's just a practice run. I want to be able to take a spare computer and change a few minor things just to get experience of how it all works. No one responded about the memcal dip socket vs just soldering the chip in so I am guessing its still up to individual preference. I have extra chips and a zif along with the ALDL cable and chip burner by Moates.So I will just get a core 95 8 cyl tbi computer and see what is next. Thank you for the information. I read some of your posts here, they answered some questions.

[Fast355]

Thank you for the help, yes the worst part of the setup is the weak transmission. I have a new separator plate and shift kit in there along with the sonnax boost valve. It's been in there for over a year and does fine. I don't trust it though being a 95 with a weak sun shell and 20 years is a long time for transmission seals in a marginal transmission, so it's on the to do list in a month or two. It's better to freshen things up then sit by the freeway with a trailer on. I have the updated parts setting on the shelf. It shouldn't take too long to pull it one weekend and go through it. The van is in great shape mechanically. It was a fleet vehicle for an electric outfit and the owner had this one so it mostly sat in their shop. I did all the maintenance on it for years when I worked for an independent repair shop. The thermostat is a 190 currently, but I do have a 180 for it when the cam goes in. I do have a new big block fuel pump I plan on installing too. That was information I read here a few weeks ago.

Mostly at this point it's just a practice run. I want to be able to take a spare computer and change a few minor things just to get experience of how it all works. No one responded about the memcal dip socket vs just soldering the chip in so I am guessing its still up to individual preference. I have extra chips and a zif along with the ALDL cable and chip burner by Moates.So I will just get a core 95 8 cyl tbi computer and see what is next. Thank you for the information. I read some of your posts here, they answered some questions.

The 7427 needs a memcal adapter. I never used a ZIF socket because even the short version would not allow the chip to fit under the service door. I merely pushed the chip into the socket.

No need for a second PCM. Just remove the memcal adapter and plug the stock memcal back in if needed.

I had an Autoprom wired up practically permenately in my old G20. I hard wired in a 2nd ALDL port next to yhe PCM. The PCM was in the wall behind the drivers seat. I connected to it via a single USB port and could Datalog and Tune in real time with the engine running.

[Fast355]

My old Vortec head TBI when I still ran it. Had an Edelbrock Performer RPM and 502 Marine TBI on it in this picture but later ran an edelbrock 2912 single plane.



I played with TPI on a 383 as well. Stock runners in this picture but I also ran siamese ported SLPs on it.


I also ran Doug Thorley TH-315Y headers on it from with every engine from the stock 305 through the 383.

[donf]

Thank you for the info! I saw the moates adapter, I just thought it would be cleaner to do the chip the other way. Its pretty much the same cost too as cores run about 30 and a few bucks in parts. If not many resolder the chip into the memcal, I may just do it the adapter way as that seems to be working for many. I will keep an eye out for those headers used.

[donf]

Questions..
Yesterday I decided to put in the fuel pump. Airtex E3212 crosses to the 95 big block TBI pump. I chose this one because it's still made in the USA and it was fairly cheap on eBay, $20 shipped. The stock pump still put out 11 psi but deadhead pressure was only 14 psi. The new pump install was pretty clean. There is a fat little rubber hose called an Isolator that connects the pump to the sending unit assembly. I did not reuse it, as its old and the insides were coming apart. I remember from the early 90s that that fat hose was for noise, but most aftermarket kits just have standard fuel hose as the Isolators sometimes fail. So I just replaced it with 5/16 fuel injection hose and hi-pressure clamps. The new pump sounds like ball bearings rolling in the tank. If you have ever mounted a Holley Blue or Red pump, that's the type of noise I am talking about. The Airtex is not quite that bad but 3/4 of that volume. I drained the fuel again this morning using the test connector for the fuel pump and noticed when I restricted the pump so it build some pressure the rumble noise almost completely disappeared. Around the 30 psi it was designed for it's an OEM sounding pump, at the 11-12 psi it's a very noisy pump. The deadhead pressure is 45 psi so the pump seems strong. There are a lot of complaints on the internet about Airtex and noise, but not any more than other manufactures though including AC Delco. I am thinking I just got a noisy pump off eBay, but I am wondering if the removal of the Isolator would increase the nose that much. Anyone else run into this noise increase when they upgraded to a higher pressure pump?

Update, I got some advice that Airtex is not that good of a brand anymore, even being made in the USA. I will be getting EP377 pump as a replacement in a few weeks. It's a good thing the tank in the van is so easy to drop and install.