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  1. #1
    Carb and Points!
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    Ok I now have the engine running on the stand. Now to start stripping the harness of the unused wires. Any diagrams or instructions available ? One post says to plug the sensors in and follow them to the ecm. Does that mean strip everything else ? Thanks to all for the help

  2. #2
    Super Moderator dave w's Avatar
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    I'm not aware of a step by step instruction for simplifying a harness. In general the steps are listed below.

    1. Identify the connectors needed; connectors like Fuel Pump Relay, Fuel Pump, TPS, IAC, O2, Injectors, CTS, MAP, ALDL, Oil Pressure Switch, Ignition Coil, and Distributor.
    2. Identify the power and grounds; ignition (on / start), battery + (positive), and battery - (negative).
    3. Identify the fuse requirements; injectors, computer, and ??? I recommend following the factory AMP ratings for the fuses.
    4. Remove what's not needed; Emissions? / Air Conditioning?
    5. Word of CAUTION ... some wires are spliced together inside the harness. Solder splicing wires is better than BUTT splicing wires!!

    Based on my own personal experience ... it takes me more time to simply a used harness as opposed to building a new harness from scratch. See attached pictures. The looks of the new harness vs. the simplified harness, well it's very obvious the new harness is better looking than the simplified used harness!

    dave w
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #3
    Carb and Points!
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    Quote Originally Posted by dave w View Post
    I'm not aware of a step by step instruction for simplifying a harness. In general the steps are listed below.

    1. Identify the connectors needed; connectors like Fuel Pump Relay, Fuel Pump, TPS, IAC, O2, Injectors, CTS, MAP, ALDL, Oil Pressure Switch, Ignition Coil, and Distributor.
    2. Identify the power and grounds; ignition (on / start), battery + (positive), and battery - (negative).
    3. Identify the fuse requirements; injectors, computer, and ??? I recommend following the factory AMP ratings for the fuses.
    4. Remove what's not needed; Emissions? / Air Conditioning?
    5. Word of CAUTION ... some wires are spliced together inside the harness. Solder splicing wires is better than BUTT splicing wires!!

    Based on my own personal experience ... it takes me more time to simply a used harness as opposed to building a new harness from scratch. See attached pictures. The looks of the new harness vs. the simplified harness, well it's very obvious the new harness is better looking than the simplified used harness!

    dave w

    Do I have to ues the vss box? will the trans work properly without it {4L60}?

  4. #4
    Carb and Points!
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    Will the trans work properly with out the vss box and if not does anyone have the wiring diagram for the Vss #16185645 ?

  5. #5
    Super Moderator dave w's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by choppermtn View Post
    Do I have to ues the vss box? will the trans work properly without it {4L60}?
    What are you using for a speedometer cable? Maybe you can use an inline VSS with the speedometer cable?

    Check out JTR for an inline VSS (2k or 2000 pulses per mile): http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Spe...eedometer.html

    If you DO NOT have a speedometer cable, you will need the the VSS Box to convert the 40 pulses per driveshaft VSS signal from the 4L60E into 2000 pulses per mile signal that the 16166395 needs to control the 4L60E.

    dave w

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