Seconded:Originally Posted by steveo
I've read that a couple of times and without a small piece of credit card (old) underneath they were flaky.
I also had to do the same with the programmer.
I also found a light polish on the pins & the socket helped. Used the edge of a sharp knife just lightly to clean up the faces.
Mitch
'95 Z28 M6 -Just the odd mod.
'80 350 A3 C3 Corvette - recent addition.
The PLCC sockets have a plastic "floor" in them that you have to cut out to hand-solder them, if you're hot-air soldering then it may not have to be removed? Anyway-you MUST put that floor back in after you've soldering them in place, or they will absolutely not work.
Sometimes even with the floor in place they don't work...
Here ya go:
Thanks for the advice. I did install the floor after installing the first chip the very first time I could tell right off it was too far down. Had a hard time pulling the chip out with the tool too. I didn't clean the pins besides a quick blow on them. The two errors I could have really been due to a pin not connecting correctly. Man it feels good to have this socketed. Now lets hope the E Side doesn't muff up or I'll be doing it but hey all it takes is a little time. Thanks for the info guys!
Well I'm first to admit when I do something stupid. Few weeks ago I was not able to connect to the PMC to flash. The engine would cut off and on repeatedly. I opened the PCM up and all my soldering joints had blue corrosion. I now know it was from crappy acid core flux. Not sure about the solder but sure it was also. I ended up getting quality rosin core no clean "yea right" of both. I soldered another socket on an untouched PCM that came out of a B-Body. I did an amazing job this go round. Got me some X3 old man glasses haha that really helped see what I was doing.
I'm still having a problem. I have tried the Flash Blue Gray bin that worked before and even tried the BNDH one. Fans come on soon as I turn the key on. I have tried several cut outs for the floor to test out the chip height in the socket but still no go. I have a floor picked out that I will be using that puts the chip about level with the top of the socket. I have triple checked the pins that I can get to on the socket with a tester and all test ok.
I did clean the socket pins gently before installing the first chip but I do see a little residue on then that I'm fixing to try to polish up with a knife or something. Man this sucks. All I wanted is to hear the ole girl fire up on Christmas :)
Guys I don't know what to say. I'm so disappointed. I checked every pin with a meter and by seeing if they were firmly soldered by lightly pushing on them with the back side of a knife. I did find one that looked soldered and tested ok with meter tho the pin would move so I fixed that. I checked them all every time I had a failed attempt because I just didn't know what was causing the fans to come on right off the bat. I tried 10 different chip install heights. I just don't know.
Makes no sense that my last socket install was sloppy in my opinion and worked great till the corrosion issue. This one I really thought it work the very first try and now look at me. I feel good it isn't the socket but at this point I don't know. This was an untouched PCM. If it was the other one I think it was just ruined. Man I just want my car to run with a socketed PCM.
Could the E-Side be messed up? I never tried the BNDH file again and maybe I should. I'm flashing the chip with a programmer using Intel N28F512 in the programmer. That is correct right? I didn't save the job as they call it the last time a few months ago but that's what I remember choosing as far as the chip selection to program. I do see an AMD AM28F512 chip. Maybe I'll try that to flash the chip and see how she does tho I really remember using the N28F512 one selected.
Last edited by troutdog311; 12-27-2017 at 01:56 AM.
Can you communicate with the PCM via aldl bus.
If you get data, tside flash and bin is good. And you should check eside.Maybe the eside on the PCM is bricked.{Runnig fans point to that}
Also there is two types of raw bins. One is full of zeroes, the other with FFs
Try reading the bin with eehack.
And see what side can you communicate with.
Thank you kur4o for the help. I can't connect to the PCM at all at the moment using aldl at all. To program the chip I'm using a TL66 chip programmer. I just located the last known working 28F512 chip that was on my last PCM and gave it a read. Looking at the data from the TL66 it appears to be the BNDH bin file. I may have got the Flash Blue Gray file mixed up with the BNDH one. I haven't tried the BNDH file since I found that one pin not soldered because I thought for sure it didn't work on my last socket job. I hope I'm just a big dummy and got the two files mixed up. I'll keep you posted. Thanks again for the help. I need it
I haven't done any chip flashing for a long time....but FYI I "kinda" remember a situation where I used the AMD AM28F512 chip data. Try it won't hurt. Try reversing and reflashing the chips...hope you have extra chips?
Thanks EDZIP, I do have 9 chips total. Well tried the BNDH file and fans came right on as I turn the key. I actually tried to start it for craps and giggles and would fire right up but go dead 5 sec later. It did this every start up. It would not connect with aldl cable. I do have 3-4 virgin chips I'll play with. I just don't understand. I did a much much better job on this solder job and now look at me. It has nothing to do with it being a B-Body PCM right. I know that is stupid question being the PCM part numbers are the same but I just thinking. It is for sure an Intel chip. I'll get it. It's hard for me to give up on something. If you guys think of something please let me know. I'll keep you posted.
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