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Thread: Anyone worked with the 16196397 yet?

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  1. #1
    Fuel Injected!
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    Looks like it's time to give up on the FTDI stuff. I pulled out the Silabs CP2102 3.3 volt adaptor and built a 3.3 to 5v level converter for it, and it's now the only thing I'll use...because while it does not work out of the box, once configured, it will generate a *real* 8191 baud signal...not 8192, but far closer than anything else I've found/researched.

    The Silabs chips work flawlessly on the bench so far, with both surviving ECM's (still waiting on enough chips to fix the others) and it works with my laptop as well. Bad cable, lots of conflicting issues...but now the new cable, while ugly, does work.

    However, Tunerpro is still flickering data like mad-Scan94/95 datalogs are clean and have very little to no noise. Tunerpro logs are even worse now than they were before, but no data errors now. 4-5hz update rate, but so far, random garbage data. I'm going to see if it persists in the truck as well.

  2. #2
    Fuel Injected!
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    Here's a video of what happens when I try to get a datalog. I can flash a bin, read a bin, get data, send data, but I can not get "live data" or any kind of running data.

    Not sure why.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?featur...&v=Fl6vuO6qLj4

  3. #3
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    Robert, I may have some bad news.

    Removing the 2 bar patch code lets the engine run, instead of sputter and surge. I pulled the 1 bar map sensor off the truck I drove to the shop, cobbled an adaptor, and hooked it up with a 1 bar sensor. Unpatched the code, copied the stock 3.1L tables into the tune and multiplied by 1.1, so as to eliminate my tuning efforts, and fired the engine up to a steady, smooth idle and nice throttle response. At this point I called it a night and came home.

    Clearly, this was all with the supercharger in bypass mode, so no boost. I'll do some more testing when I wake up, I've got a spare 1bar sensor here.

    The plan for when I wake up:

    -re-fit 1 bar sensor, and start engine with unpatched code. It should run.

    -Patch code, and deselect 2/3 bar support, set the scalars to 1 bar settings. Find out if this runs exactly like stock (it should, I would think)

    I'll report back with what happens.

  4. #4
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    Doesn't work with the 1 bar sensor, once patched-but I think that was suspected behavior? I'm still not ready to suspect the patched code, but I'm running out of leads to chase down.

    Anyway, I'm going through the wiring harness with a fine-toothed comb, getting every input/output functioning as best I can figure it should, and improving the grounding anywhere possible. I am hoping to get a magic ground system that makes the communication link while running start working...from there it should be trivial to fix whatever problem I'm having. Lots of time crammed up under the dash with meter probes and wiring charts...

  5. #5
    Fuel Injected!
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    here's a datalog from today-Notice what i noticed after going through all the wiring again?

    Check out the Ignition Voltage...At 8.5 volts on the bench, comms drop out and the same thing happens-but with a stock bin and 1 bar sensor, the engine snaps up and runs good enough to get the alternator going-and the voltage comes back up, I guess.

    Time to look at my supply lines and battery again, I guess!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xnke View Post
    Doesn't work with the 1 bar sensor, once patched-but I think that was suspected behavior? I'm still not ready to suspect the patched code, but I'm running out of leads to chase down.

    Anyway, I'm going through the wiring harness with a fine-toothed comb, getting every input/output functioning as best I can figure it should, and improving the grounding anywhere possible. I am hoping to get a magic ground system that makes the communication link while running start working...from there it should be trivial to fix whatever problem I'm having. Lots of time crammed up under the dash with meter probes and wiring charts...
    not working with a 1BAR while the 2/3BAR patch is present is expected, I didn't find that code error for quite some time and haven't fixed it out of not expecting the scenario to be used.

    once solid communications can be established, it will help considerably, but I'm not sure where something would go wrong considering I nearly just ported the exact same boost code that works perfectly from my nAst1 project. when we can see what kind of advance and pulsewidth is being commanded, it may clue in what's going on.

    Quote Originally Posted by Xnke View Post
    here's a datalog from today-Notice what i noticed after going through all the wiring again?

    Check out the Ignition Voltage...At 8.5 volts on the bench, comms drop out and the same thing happens-but with a stock bin and 1 bar sensor, the engine snaps up and runs good enough to get the alternator going-and the voltage comes back up, I guess.

    Time to look at my supply lines and battery again, I guess!
    at 8.5 volts, I'd be amazed if any of the relays weren't about to start opening up/chattering. that's if you're actually seeing 8.5 and something isn't causing the PCM to see that(weak circuit).
    1995 Chevrolet Monte Carlo LS 3100 + 4T60E


  7. #7
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    I haven't had any kind of luck hunting down the voltage drop issue-I am about to stuff a 22,000uF capacitor filter across the switched power and another across the battery power and hope that's enough to limit the voltage drop during cranking.

    I'll have the wideband in the pipe tomarrow, and should be able to get some fuel table feedback to try and get the PCM to at least attempt to control fueling-it's still Scrooge Mcduck rich, immediately after it fires.

    It's really, really strange-it will start and run for a few seconds every single time-with absolutely no regard to temperature or weather, just like a factory truck. But after the initial crankup and first firing, it immediately struggles to not drown in fuel. I'm hoping by leaning out the main and idle VE tables some, I can at least get it to run long enough to get the alternator on board, and hopefully that will cure the voltage issue.

    The odd thing is that the relays aren't chattering and nothing else seems to have an issue with the voltage-just the PCM. And it does it will all four functional PCM's I've got-I managed to rescue the dead ones.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xnke View Post
    I haven't had any kind of luck hunting down the voltage drop issue-I am about to stuff a 22,000uF capacitor filter across the switched power and another across the battery power and hope that's enough to limit the voltage drop during cranking.

    I'll have the wideband in the pipe tomarrow, and should be able to get some fuel table feedback to try and get the PCM to at least attempt to control fueling-it's still Scrooge Mcduck rich, immediately after it fires.

    It's really, really strange-it will start and run for a few seconds every single time-with absolutely no regard to temperature or weather, just like a factory truck. But after the initial crankup and first firing, it immediately struggles to not drown in fuel. I'm hoping by leaning out the main and idle VE tables some, I can at least get it to run long enough to get the alternator on board, and hopefully that will cure the voltage issue.

    The odd thing is that the relays aren't chattering and nothing else seems to have an issue with the voltage-just the PCM. And it does it will all four functional PCM's I've got-I managed to rescue the dead ones.
    Have you tried cracking the throttle blade to allow more air in, or remove a vacuum pipe. It might just allow it to keep it running long enough.

    Mitch
    Terminal Crazy
    '95 Z28 M6 -Just the odd mod.
    '80 350 A3 C3 Corvette - recent addition.

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