Everything looks to be in order with the bin. I'll try and test it tomorrow.
Everything looks to be in order with the bin. I'll try and test it tomorrow.
What about using a "T" in the lower radiator hose? Thats how my S10 is.
1978 Camaro Type LT, 383, Dual TBI, '7427, 4L80E
1981 Camaro Z-28 Clone, T-Tops, 350/TH350
1981 Camaro Berlinetta, V-6, 3spd
1974 Chevy/GMC Truck, '90 TBI 350, '7427, TH350, NP203, 6" lift, 35s
HAHAHA. yup it runs better already.
1978 Camaro Type LT, 383, Dual TBI, '7427, 4L80E
1981 Camaro Z-28 Clone, T-Tops, 350/TH350
1981 Camaro Berlinetta, V-6, 3spd
1974 Chevy/GMC Truck, '90 TBI 350, '7427, TH350, NP203, 6" lift, 35s
So that the HOT coolant gets cooled off before returning to engine? Important during summer, but something to overcome in spring and fall. I have seen GM OEM setups that are the same way, but I think some have a bypass valve in there somewhere.
http://shopacdelco.amazonwebstore.co...B0016I4ESE.htm
Last edited by gregs78cam; 02-26-2012 at 06:55 AM.
1978 Camaro Type LT, 383, Dual TBI, '7427, 4L80E
1981 Camaro Z-28 Clone, T-Tops, 350/TH350
1981 Camaro Berlinetta, V-6, 3spd
1974 Chevy/GMC Truck, '90 TBI 350, '7427, TH350, NP203, 6" lift, 35s
this is the one that is on my 92 camaro. same but without the electronics. on mine the top two fittings flow when vacuum is applied bypassing the heater core.goes from the rear engine port to 5/8 top port. then from 3/4 top port to the tube leading to the radiator and ties in with the 3/4 fitting on the heater core. and the 5/8 heater core fitting to the bottom. when the engine is running no heater there is vacuum letting the top two run. turn on heater and vacuum goes allowing the 2 5/8 move thru allowing heater core movement.
That may do the trick, but the way it is now... no wonder it takes so long to warm up... probably takes forever to get good heat too? I'll look at my Suburban tomorrow and see how it's plumbed. I don't remember a heater line going to radiator but been a long time since I did any cooling system work on it. Big four core radiator, oil cooler, trans cooler from factory. Will idle with AC on in parking lot at 90f and never hit 200 before clutch fan kicks in...
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
Well, I was looking at this code and wondering about something. Since I don't need a fan for a transmission cooler fan, I could use that output for my fuel pump project. What I a curious about is using the Soft Start Idea to use a single speed fan and control it at different speeds.
Square body stepsides forever!!!
One thing to keep in mind is that the bypass valves were used to improve A/C function by stopping flow to the heater core when the A/C is set to max and had nothing to do with warming-up. You could use one in your situation to stop the flow through the radiator while cold. You would have to rig something up to control the vacuum.
That could be done, would need to write some code that uses a look-up table (temp vs DC) instead of a timer. Also, could use some status bits (A/C, etc.) to select different DC's for different conditions.
what thermostat are you running. my bypass valve is always activated unless you tun on the heater. your suburban may not have this hose going to the radiator. it was more likely a room issue in my gracious engine compartment,lol.
PJG1173,
I got my truck to run on your bin, and I couln't find anything wrong with Fan A. Try hooking a light or something else up to pin E3.
I'll try again this afternoon. I'm connecting the positive lead from my volt meter to the cigarete outlet is there somewhere else I should be connecting?
87 4Runner, 15" spring lift, 3" body, chevy vortec 355, 5.29 gears, 38.5x15.5x15" Boggers, 280hr, 16168625 running $0D
93 S10, 36x12.5x15 TSL's, custom turbo headers, 266HR cam, p&p vortec heads, $0D Marine MPFI with 8psi boost.
05 Silverado, 2' lift, 4" exhaust, Bully Dog programmer,
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