yeah that sounds like bad news :/
how did it lose the connection, anyway?
Well we this morning and swapped in my other ecm and had to Jump start it. I guess low battery voltage. Also realized that the pcm was likely messed up already because when I swapped them out my voltmeter started working correctly on ths dash. I was uploading a slightly modified tune and it was almost finished on one said then just said lost connection and kept trying to restart
Last edited by chevreligionz28; 03-19-2016 at 08:22 PM. Reason: typos
yeah a fully charged battery is important. it's actually not supposed to let you flash with a low battery, but if it starts flashing and your battery drains too far while flashing, you're done for.
i always make sure my climate control is off, headlights/foglights off, stereo, subwoofer, etc.
the ecm by itself doesn't draw much power at all, so it's all the other stuff that drains the battery.
wow I feel like an idiot... I was using 6E.xdf instead of your definition. no wonder my files looked so goofy
Steveo, thanks for your help! I installed the good ECM and pulled the stock tune from it, uploaded a tune I created from your generator and with a little tweaking holy cow! This car runs 100% better than it ever did! I can,t wait to see what numbers I put down on the dyno, especially after i do the cam swap and re tune. I grew up learning to tune the old way with screwdrivers and a box of holley carb parts and a vacuum gauge I never figured it could be this easy on a computer controlled EFI unit!
that's great it's working out for you even after your flash disaster.
really nice to know my tools are working alright for really new tuners. i've always tried to keep myself in the head space of how i was before i learned to tune.
compared to oldschool tuning, imagine being able to turn a distributor around and try different base timings while driving?
the biggest gain at WOT on an LT1 is in air fuel ratio. stock timing isn't so bad, you can modify the low rpm timing and gain a bit there, but the stock tune is really really rich, and also takes trims into account, which can be inconsistent.
install the blm locker patch in EEX so closed loop doesn't screw with your WOT AFR, then get it on a dyno and adjust down to about 13.0:1 AFR (or even as lean as 13.5:1) and it'll gain huge, huge power
aiming for a 13.3:1 AFR i went from barely barking the tires between gears to smoking them right through 4th. the stock tune after a mild cam swap was like 11.8:1 at high RPM.
need a wideband to get that right, though.. but dropping about 8-10% of fuel from the WOT tables usually doesn't blow anything up.
I used the BLM locker tool and used your hottest timing curve since I only run 93 anyways (91 is hard to find here but I can go up the road and get E85 or 101 if I ever bump the compression any more) . The guys I was with said my car was a totally different beast and the butt dyno said power gains! Turned my huge 325 drag radials into a smokey mess.
that really only adds a couple degrees across the board. there's more fine tuning you can do. you need to log with eehack now and run the analyzer to check for knock.I used the BLM locker tool and used your hottest timing curve
I ran a log tonight, I think my right bank o2 sensor is malfunctioning so I'll leave of as is until I get my longtunes and new o2s installed
Bookmarks