when wired reverse polarity they will run rough and fail to idle well if at all.also the thickness of the trigger wheel can be an issue if you have crank end float and the crank walks the wheel out of the sensor path slightly
when wired reverse polarity they will run rough and fail to idle well if at all.also the thickness of the trigger wheel can be an issue if you have crank end float and the crank walks the wheel out of the sensor path slightly
snip snip twist and tape see if it works LOL if it does solder and heatshrink
I have the pin removal tools so maybe I can just swap pins at crank sensor. The pins at ICM are backwards, meaning they don't come out of connector, they go through? So you have to cut wire...
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
sweet if that fails remove sensor and check ohms reading for me
SOOOoooo fitted a dizzy yet LOL sorry couldnt help myself did you get anywhere
No dizzy yet, no way when this close and you come up with "Swap the wires" and friends sending memcals to eliminate a possibility... One of my kids friends car had issues and we fixed it so he could get to work tomorrow and by the time I could it was to late here. Most of tomorrow is free so...
We had already checked ohms on the new crank sensor. Forget what it was but in spec.
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
Crank signal should be positive voltage first.
Crank wheel notch width should be measured in degrees and would be smaller with smaller wheel, larger with larger wheel.
Thinking about air gap... gm does not give a tolerance for allowable variation while engine is operating. It's expected that the crank is true and the sensor will remain the same distance from the crank wheel. Ignition module watches for rising voltage then triggers on falling, it's possible that changing air gap is causing false signal.
I can send out my DIS signal generator. It's about a 3" wheel on an old PC fan motor with a hole for a crank sensor. lmk... you're always just a post office away.
vl400 did extensive testing on slot width it should be the size of the sensor tip no matter how big of a diameter the wheel.
you want the tooth/slot width about the same as the sensor tip - this is not the physical sensor packaging but the actual sensing tip. The wider the tooth is the longer the reluctor pulse is, the voltage peaks are the leading and trailing edges of the tooth. The sensing circuits normally look for a zero voltage crossing to trigger from, so with a wider tooth you would see a flat area of 0V not a sharp change which is not really desirable
they also need to be deep or the sensor still picks up the steel down in the hole
Slot width is larger than sensor tip in OE 2.2 application. :(vl400 did extensive testing on slot width it should be the size of the sensor tip no matter how big of a diameter the wheel.
The larger the diameter the more of it that passes under the sensor in a given time. If the gap doesn't increase with wheel diameter the time from edge to edge will decrease.The wider the tooth is the longer the reluctor pulse is
May as well. If nothing else we are learning something here.
Had issues starting last night before we quit realizing how late it was. Engine seemed to be getting spark half the time so we visually checked spark at plug and sure enough it was not steady!
PM me your PayPal and I can at least cover the postage I owe you!
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
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