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Thread: 12200411 - A Few General Questions

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  1. #1
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mecanicman View Post
    While a vss can be eliminated, its much better to run it. You can add a dakota digital vss that goes between your trans and speedo cable. Not using loses you resolution on your timing table and makes idle a little more interesting. The $40 it takes to add it is worth it in my opinion.
    X2!

    I've done several differant EFI systems without VSS and some were a lot of tuning work! Then add VSS and they all ran better, even if you don't need accurate speed, just the ECM/PCM knowing the vehicle is moving or not makes Idle so much better. Amongst other things!

    Also done a lot of differant motors with TBI injection and made a small cap EFI distributor for every one. Jeep, Ford, Chrysler, etc...

    http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...BI-Conversions!

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
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  2. #2
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    Its transitions between moving and idle, the computer has different strategies. If you never have a vss, the computer bases all "decisions" on you sitting still. It can be compensated for by putting more air into running airflow table then you normally would.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by mecanicman View Post
    Its transitions between moving and idle, the computer has different strategies. If you never have a vss, the computer bases all "decisions" on you sitting still. It can be compensated for by putting more air into running airflow table then you normally would.
    Sounds like the VSS may be something I need to consider-
    Does the clutch switch play any role with this idle strategy as well?
    Thanks!
    Elm

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    Quote Originally Posted by ezobens View Post
    Sounds like the VSS may be something I need to consider-
    Does the clutch switch play any role with this idle strategy as well?
    Thanks!
    Elm
    Yes, but it is easiar to tune around in my opinion.

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    What role does clutch signal play? Isn't it needed for Case Relearn? Or was that Parking Brake on manuals?

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
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    If the brake switch is solely for Case Re-Learn, I'd rather just wire a toggle switch vs wiring in the Emergency Brake-
    Or are their TWO brake signals (one for the foot and one for the emergency brake)?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by EagleMark View Post
    What role does clutch signal play? Isn't it needed for Case Relearn? Or was that Parking Brake on manuals?
    The biggest place you would notice it is when coasting down, high vacum situation where the tires are driving the engine. Stepping on the clutch pedal changes the airflow requirements, pcm compensates. Base running airflow and throttle cracker can cover this.
    Last edited by mecanicman; 12-06-2013 at 08:24 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mecanicman View Post
    The biggest place you would notice it is when coasting down, high vacum situation where the tires are driving the engine. Stepping on the clutch pedal changes the airflow requirements, pcm compensates. Base running airflow and throttle cracker can cover this.

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
    -= =-

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by EagleMark View Post
    X2!

    I've done several differant EFI systems without VSS and some were a lot of tuning work! Then add VSS and they all ran better, even if you don't need accurate speed, just the ECM/PCM knowing the vehicle is moving or not makes Idle so much better. Amongst other things!

    Also done a lot of differant motors with TBI injection and made a small cap EFI distributor for every one. Jeep, Ford, Chrysler, etc...

    http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...BI-Conversions!
    I've seen this post and it's very ingenious- Unfortunately, I don't think I can utilize the 2 piece shaft arrangement in my application due to the mechanical tach drive and the cam plate assembly required to attach the points style rotor. I think my best bet will be to alter the cam plate to allow me to attach the reluctor securely.
    Luckily, I have a lot of spare OEM points distributors laying around that I can butcher (err- "Engineer") and try to make something that works.
    The biggest machining operation would be to the notch the main body so I could attach the OEM CMP sensor without having to notch distributor caps.
    Thanks for the ideas!
    Elm

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