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Thread: TBI Chips .com help! i need a drivable truck soon

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  1. #1
    Fuel Injected! kingcat400's Avatar
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    no there is no egr. ya this is the same track i used in most of the tests. only differance is now i brake up the log driving and launch.

    the code is BJYL

  2. #2
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    Your consistent.

    But I wouldn't know how to adjust anything with consistently bad data logs? Wern't you instructed how to data log? I could take half of it to good use but there's still a big half missing?

    I'm really sorry for the trouble you have gone through, it's not your fault.

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
    -= =-

  3. #3
    Fuel Injected! kingcat400's Avatar
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    he just told me to drive around some and then get on it. if it was having an issue try and get it to do it.

    what should i be doing?

  4. #4
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    Half your log was not warmed up, so unless you were trying to find a cold run condition after a starter chip it's worthless. Or strip out half and use it.

    Data master just does not have the tools to find AE issues. Again this was realized here again when we compared Datamaster log to TunerPro log, both show BLM in history as in ball park. Again, AE issues are hard to do not hands on without wide band O2 sensor data. Hands on at least you can feel how it's responding to get close and even then to dial it in perfect takes a wide band. Only the tuner would know at that point because drivabilty issues from AE were tuned out.

    No idle time so no idle work?

    BLM learn was not cleared before another chip installed so BLM numbers are again worthless. If you had not cleared BLM learn data at each chip change then again it's worthless. Unless you had driven several times, over several start ups for 20-30 minutes each, would take a week to correct so BLM data was a good tool to adjust with, but it seems you put in a chip and are consistent with your log route, I've watched them change from high to low and low to high so I'm not totally guessing.

    You've been chasing an AE issue and have said AE was increased which made it worse, this makes no sense on your motor build. Let me ask you, was your fuel pressure accounted for in first chip? Second or third chip? There's no way to tell in logs if it was accounted for. From your logs we know spark advance was untouched and stock in first chip , maybe 2 until we found it here, then it changed, hard to remember all that has happened. But fuel pressure and spark table would need to be done on first starter chip to get accurate data logs for re-adjustment. Or it's just pot luck?

    I don't like what I am about to say... but... I'm done helping a paid for tuner find his problems so he can fix customers tunes! This is a regular topic here, and other forums, has been for years, not isolated. We do this because we like it, money is not the issue. But using us while he makes money is just as wrong as taking your money... would you like to see a $150 chip with seven insignificant changes and EGR turned off wrong? Ten minutes work is $1200 an hour and it's still not done right.

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
    -= =-

  5. #5
    Fuel Injected! kingcat400's Avatar
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    ok I will let the truck warm up longer.

    what would you recommend for a wbo2? should i get one?

    will put more idle time in.

    would that be cleared by unhooking the battery for a longer amount of time?

    i would assume as Brian had told me set it to a 18psi when he sent me the first chip.

    i have no problem paying you. i am done with Brian and have told many others to stay away from him on there builds.

  6. #6
    Fuel Injected! kingcat400's Avatar
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    and also from brian i started to get the that "he dont know what he is talking about i will just tell him what he wants to hear".

    so i dont know if what he was telling me he did with the ae was actually what he did

  7. #7
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    I really don't want to start bashing anyone! We never have and I hope never will. Hope my statements weren't taken as a bash. Just kind of fed up... everything I said was backed up with proof and accurate as to what's going wrong and how to do it differently or my way, which works for me! He's been around a long time and should have this down pat, but guys like you keep popping up, looking into how and why I figured it out.

    I'm not looking for work. My advice here is given to help people learn how to tune, I've learned most from what others have shared and then putting in 1000s of hours of my own. My advice for those not wanting to learn or don't have the time is have someone do it hands on. I've learned a lot by data logs to do this remotely but still advise to get it done hands on. There's so much that can go wrong by mail, first is the tuner is no longer the tech, can the person on other end do what is instructed to diagnose, even then it can take time to fix or not be fixed at all? I've had guys show up and found what was wrong in ten minutes and it's something I had them check! In person I can knock these out quick and I have fun doing it!

    I see another issue, you said he wanted 18 PSI fuel pressure, your first post says you have 16? We've had a lot of threads showing fuel pressure gauges to be way off as well. This is one of those things I can't fix by mail? And your 19!!! My son is 19, all his frends are 19 or older and none are old enough to have patience yet! Although you have shown a lot of patience and drive to get your built motor truck running.

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
    -= =-

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