I forgot to mension that the car shuts off after initial cold start up unless I hold the throttle down a little. Maybe someone can adjust my stock bin to work with my set up.
I am going to post the stock bin and logs and the three custom buns and logs as well.
Thanks:
And here is the third bin and log that the tunner sent me with no success so he gave me a refund which I didn't want but he gave up and didn't want to deal with me any more and was convinced that I have a mechanical problem. I don't see it being mechanical as it doesn't do it with the stock chip.
With the stock chip the car runs ok in open and closed loop but really rich with black smoke coming out of the exhaust at WOT. The rpm's also drop quickly when shifting gear causing non-smooth shifts and they drop to about 500 rpm when the clutch is pressed then bounch back up. The car does not have as much power as opposed to the custom bin file.
I have tried adjusting the fuel pressure and I now have it at 44psi with key on engine off but it runs the same.
With the custom bin, the car runs really strong, rpm's drop smooth and car shifts nice. Engine seem's a little rice but nothing like with the stock bin and overall drivability with the car is nice ans smooth with lots of power, the problem is when the car is cold or in open loop it runs horrible.
Just to review: 86 Camaro Z28, originally a 305 tpi, auto.
Bought the car with: ZZ4 350, tpis mini (no egr), accel 30lb injectors (yellow top), GM hot cam, 1000 cfm throttle body, 160 degree thermostat with dual fans and flexalite adjustable controller (fans not computer controlled) I was told that the heads were ported, I added A/C (had it from factory), ram air ducts with K&N air filters.
I adjusted the tps properly along with the IAC valve.
I would love for the car to run the way it is in closed loop but with the same way it runs in open loop with the stock bin.
Any help here and all the support is greatly appreaciated.
First off, I need to apologize. I don't mean this in a bad way but I've realized you have only a little idea what's involved in this job. Generally the people here that post are interested in DIY tuning. I asked the questions I did thinking that you wanted to learn to make changes to your car as well. I was not offering to fix your calibration for you. I'm sorry if I came across that way.
With that said, there's a big difference between what you perceive and what I see. I don't like that custom calibration. I wouldn't have done it that way at all. That cal looks very much like a copy of a TPIS calibration and probably behaves very much like other TPIS cals I've run into. I looked through the log file and found large amounts of knock retard when you snap the throttle, large changes in injector pulsewidth at idle, slow response to throttle snap followed up by too much fuel, and that's just in the first 2 1/2 minutes of operation. Please don't use the original stock calibration for comparison either. It's just as wrong for your engine, although in many different ways.
If you'd like to learn to tune your own then you've probably got a big task ahead of you. But the rewards for doing it yourself are very high. I don't have any miniram calibrations here from '165 equipped vehicles. I did a very exhaustive search even bringing up cals from 12-13 years ago that required DOS based software to view. Again, sorry.
oh, and incase you didn't read up top, I adjusted the pressure to 44 psi and then started the car and it was still running rough and shut off twice. Didn't take it for a drive but I'm sure from the way it is running that it'll be the same. The car also has the catalytic converter punched out and all air pump system was removed with delete pulley.
Thanks
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