TPS seems to have a smooth voltage sweep but I’ll try unplugging it and seeing what happens, the thing that confuses me the no matter what i do the idle requirement shows 1000 on the scanner and my truck idles at exactly 1000
TPS seems to have a smooth voltage sweep but I’ll try unplugging it and seeing what happens, the thing that confuses me the no matter what i do the idle requirement shows 1000 on the scanner and my truck idles at exactly 1000
Kinda has me stumped a little too. Does vehicle speed show correct in scanner also?
If you eliminate enough stuff you should eventually find it, sometimes it's hard to know where to go next though lol.
No need to re-invent the wheel. But we can make it better
I haven’t drivin it with the scanner hooked up to check vehicle speed, but yeah it’s driving me
Crazy, I’m gonna put a new tps sensor on it and see what happens
Might try a different scanner, to see if it is lying to you. The other thing that could be causing a desired idle of 1000 would be what they call the throttle cracker, and throttle follower that basically act as the old dash pot that slowed the transition idle. Was this a manual transmission been to start with or is it converted from a automatic transmission? The automatic transmission bin has several rolling idle settings that affect idle while the vehicle is in motion.
Did you ever try plugging the hole for the IAC that I suggested much earlier?
I don’t have access to another scanner and i just bought this one brand new for almost 200$, so i don’t want to buy another one and this Is a factory manual and I’ve confirmed the computer has the correct chip in it. I have not tried plugging the IAC hole, but i don’t see how this would set a desired idle of 1k anyway? If i remove the IAC and plug the hole then the truck should idle at what the base idle was set to at the factory. I’m starting to think it’s tps related since the tps numbers are the only ones that seem to be out of wack on the scanner
That's why I suggested unplugging the TPS, to see if it wants to command a lower idle speed with TPs disconnected. If it doesn't, I doubt a new TPS will do any good
No need to re-invent the wheel. But we can make it better
To be clear, you don't need to remove the IAC, just plug the hole from the top of the throttlebody.
I will do this tommorow and get back to you, last time i unplugged it the idle went higher
Too bad you could have gotten a decent USB to aldl cable for about half that much, then you could pull the bin file from the diagnostic port and verify nobody has screwed with anything on it. Plus you could get a data log recording instead of just looking at a small scanner screen.Originally Posted by maronielb
No need to re-invent the wheel. But we can make it better
When can i get the cable for $100? Last i checked it’s like $140 for. I’m still willing to purchase one if it’s $100
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks