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Thread: Whatever!!!!!!!!! Gearhead-EFI Edition

  1. #121
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    I had toe surgery and can't walk more then the bathroom for five days. Also have insomnia so I have now completed reading the internet in it's entirty!

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
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  2. #122
    Fuel Injected! JeepsAndGuns's Avatar
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    I cant win from losing.
    I bought that grand cherokee (read thread good deal is not so good) with the PO telling me the engine is the only problem.
    I spend $400 fixing the engine, only to test drive it and find out the trans wont shift and is making a whining noise.
    I spend another $400 putting in a good used trans, and now it shifts and works just fine (for now) only to find out the whining noise is the rear axle.
    Other things I have found wrong:
    Heater blower motor doesnt work, there is a module that controlls it, and its anywhere from $100-150.
    The blower motor modules usally go out because the blower motors get age and wear on them and start pulling too many amps. And the new blower motors are around $60-70.
    The hot/cold blend doors in the hvac system do not work. Research online shows its a weak factory design. It can be fixed by removing the glovebox and cutting a hole in the hvac box, removing the doors and replaceing them with new aftermarket ones.
    I pull the glove box to take a peek, only to find out someone has already been in there ****** rigging the doors, and left ta big hole in the box with nothing but tape covering it.
    The list goes on....

    Ok, rant over.
    79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy

    93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver

    99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.

  3. #123
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    Also have insomnia so I have now completed reading the internet in it's entirty!
    So... have you found Al Gore's first post? From the day he invented the internet? I think it says "Is it just me, or does it seem warm in here?"

    IHeater blower motor doesnt work, there is a module that controlls it, and its anywhere from $100-150.
    The blower motor modules usally go out because the blower motors get age and wear on them and start pulling too many amps. And the new blower motors are around $60-70
    If it only works on high then it's a very easy fix. We have a bazillion Chrysler products in the fleet and I have done this many times. They call it a "module" but it's really just a cheap resistor block in ceramic substrate. There's a small bullet shaped piece that's a chemical fuse. They can be replaced but I just install a 25A fuse there and put it back together. In 4-5 years with 8-10 hr per day usage you'll probably find the connector at the resistor block has gotten distorted from the extra heat, or maybe it will be the switch on the dash. Both of those parts together are usually less than the resistor block so it's a good fix all around. And if you can't fix the module and end up buying a new one you can get a big ceramic resistor like the old Chrysler and Jeep ignition resistors and put that in line with the blower motor to limit total current usage and save the extra money you'd spend on the blower. If you have access to air it doesn't hurt if you can remove the motor and blow out all the carbon and dust that accumulated inside the motor housing.

    I'm a packrat in the worst way. I dug out my first PC, a P200 stuffed into a 486DX100 case, and it fired up right away. It even had correct date and time, and it hasn't run since '04. I had to remember a few old tricks to get Winnows 98 to talk with my network but overall it was a trouble free startup. The sad part is it's quicker to use and more responsive than my machine that's 5X faster in processor speed with 10X more memory, dual processors, and a heirarchy dedicated to moving data. I _hate_ forced Winnows upgrades. There's sooo much unnecessary junk that gets added to each new version of Gatesware it's ridiculous. I've tried moving to Linux more than once but the world is geared toward Microsoft and the switch is never permanent. Maybe I just need to buy a new machine with the latest version of Winnows and everything will get better.
    Last edited by 1project2many; 01-08-2012 at 05:56 PM.

  4. #124
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    I really liked XP! Finally a version that worked!

    Then the coffee through keyboard insident forced me to buy a new laptop, was very reluctant to get winnows 7 but it has been good!

    Still hate the FORCED douments, shared documents, my documents, admin only to change this and that, change user? What user? Me? FUDGE!!! I was so careful at first to be a machine for one person, with no password or switch user crap! yet still sometimes I go to find a file in my documents only to find I am in shared documents and there's nothing there?

    Why can't I just have a computer? You know like with C drive and your folders there?

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
    -= =-

  5. #125
    Fuel Injected! JeepsAndGuns's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1project2many View Post
    If it only works on high then it's a very easy fix. We have a bazillion Chrysler products in the fleet and I have done this many times. They call it a "module" but it's really just a cheap resistor block in ceramic substrate. There's a small bullet shaped piece that's a chemical fuse. They can be replaced but I just install a 25A fuse there and put it back together. In 4-5 years with 8-10 hr per day usage you'll probably find the connector at the resistor block has gotten distorted from the extra heat, or maybe it will be the switch on the dash. Both of those parts together are usually less than the resistor block so it's a good fix all around. And if you can't fix the module and end up buying a new one you can get a big ceramic resistor like the old Chrysler and Jeep ignition resistors and put that in line with the blower motor to limit total current usage and save the extra money you'd spend on the blower. If you have access to air it doesn't hurt if you can remove the motor and blow out all the carbon and dust that accumulated inside the motor housing.
    No, it doesnt work at all. The switch on the dash, or the controlls, send a 0-5 volt signal to this module to controll the fan speed. When I first noticed it didnt work, I looked under the dash and found the wires had been cut and the module had been bypassed, and then the wires cut again. I tried hooking the module back up and I got a poof of smoke and a blown 40 amp fuseable link under the hood. I replaced the fuse then hooked the wires up straight to the motor just to see if it worked, and the wires (pretty decent sized) started getting warm. So the motor works, its just pulling to many amps. It appears most of the time the connector melts, but mine the whole module went out too.
    http://www.wjjeeps.com/blower_motor.htm
    79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy

    93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver

    99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.

  6. #126
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    Devil's in the details. Auto climate control systems are definitely different. There's always toggle switches and an old fashioned blower resistor. :)

  7. #127
    Super Moderator Six_Shooter's Avatar
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    The Dakota is officially a 5 seater now.

    Got rid of that useless center seat in favour of a bonefied console. :D
    The man who says something is impossible, is usually interrupted by the man doing it.

  8. #128
    Super Moderator Six_Shooter's Avatar
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    Drove the Datsun around today.

    The man who says something is impossible, is usually interrupted by the man doing it.

  9. #129
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    Nice weather in canada ay... must have been dry salt on the roads?

    I spent 12 hours working on th TunerPro look up and adding information to every $ECM info thread we have. They each have vehicles that the ECM and mask came with... I have 105 xdf files and only 45 ECM threads?

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
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  10. #130
    Vintage Methane Ejector
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    105 and counting, I left you a few more. :)

  11. #131
    Super Moderator Six_Shooter's Avatar
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    I'm debating on whether I should spend $1100 (sale price, regular over $2200), for a tool box from a national chain, that would likely do for me, or spend more, and do payments on a larger box, from a tool company, that I can also get in the colour of my choice...

    ARG!!
    The man who says something is impossible, is usually interrupted by the man doing it.

  12. #132
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    I have a craftsman top box my mom gave me when I was 17 and it's still in good shape 35 years later... I got a new top of the line roller drawers craftsman bottom and top box about 5 foot tall 26 inch wide, 18 inch deep 13 years ago and still like new, was under $800 back then, just looked and man you could get their biggest bottom box, biggest top box and side box's for the $1100... lots of sales! In red, black or yellow...

    If you have to have Snap on and have cash just watch Craig's list... but even used for box alone, could be craftman full of tools for less...

    Lowes has a huge Kobalt, stainless steel with stereo and a refrigerator for $1200ish...

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
    -= =-

  13. #133
    Super Moderator Six_Shooter's Avatar
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    That Kobalt box around here is about $2000. If it didn't have a fridge I'd probably like it, I want my tool box to be a tool box, not a deli. ;) The radio, while also unnecessary, is kinda neat. I'm pretty sure it would still be tool small though...

    I have a LOT of tools...

    Currently overflowing 3 24" wide tool boxes, that are both bottom and top chests, one with an additional middle cabinet. Many different tool box makes in there though.

    I'm looking at a Mastercraft (Canadian Tire store brand) "Euro" 47" wide tool box top and bottom combo:
    Top:http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows....jsp?locale=en
    Bottom:http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows....jsp?locale=en
    I have rain cheques for the last sale price, which is about half of the price listed.

    The other box I'm looking at is the Matco 4s.
    This one I would have to make payments on. It's a $7500 or so box, that I can get for about $4500, and in my colour. :D
    Top: I can't find a link to the top P/N 4225TC
    Bottom:http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/4225R-DBC/4S-2BAY-25-ROLLAWAY-DBL-CHM/
    The colour would be sublime green, with black trim. You can "build it" on the Matco site.
    Though I would really want the 6s, since it has more customizing options....
    The smaller 4s roller cab, in the green:


    I may just get the Mastercraft for now and when I out grow it, get a larger box, like the Matco, but maybe get the 6s instead.

    Arg, decisions, decisions...
    The man who says something is impossible, is usually interrupted by the man doing it.

  14. #134
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    I have another couple roller box's too. Works great! Do you really need one box for everything?

    The Matco price is ridicules. Here's one from Craftsman that is bigger at half the money.
    http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...8211000P?mv=rr

    As for the Mastercraft... well here's a craftman that is bigger at half the money.
    http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...7&blockType=L7

    or top and bottom for cost of just top Mastercraft.
    http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...&blockType=L15

    Pretty sure ones I linked to are the better grade with roller drawers etc... they have cheaper ones with slide drawers. Like the one I got 35 years ago the slides are wearing out...

    Sometimes you can buy them online cheaper then store even with shipping. But my friend works in tool department at Sears so he lets me know when things will be on sale! For Christmas I got my kid a 299 piece 1/4, 3/8/ 1/2 inch drive set for $99. Normally $299.

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
    -= =-

  15. #135
    Super Moderator Six_Shooter's Avatar
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    All of those boxes have less storage than the Mastercraft box, the only exception might be the 75" box, which isn't an option anyway, I don't have that much width.

    This box is for work, so the sliders NEED to be high quality and last through hard use.

    I've nevere really been impressed with Craftsman boxes either.

    Even after getting a larger box, I'll stil not have enough space for all of my tools, but yes, I need one large box.
    The man who says something is impossible, is usually interrupted by the man doing it.

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