Whatever!!!!!!!!! Gearhead-EFI Edition

[1project2many]

Ever wonder if a mid-west county bridge rated for 10 tons will hold a fully loaded truck @ 38,000 lbs? The answer is yes, but I needed to go slow and listen to some very scary creaking noises!

lol...

If it was chickens you coulda banged the side of the box first then gone over while they were still flying around in the truck. ;)

[jim_in_dorris]

No, I can't say that that has crossed my mind, but I do have first hand experience with a 10'6" load on a 10' clearance bridge while hauling haying equipment. OOOPS! The dent in the bridge remained until they tore it down a few years back.

[ony]

hope everone has a good 4th of july, and don't brake no old bridges down while tunning on the fly. I have seen some fall down in Indiana, to heavy load of corn to heavy log truck.

[JeepsAndGuns]

SCORE! SCORE! SCORE!
*HAPPY DANCE*

Just picked this up:





Total price $0.00
Asked the right guy at the right time, and he gave it to me. Works perfectly fine! Couldnt read the tank because of paint, but I think its either a 60 or 80 gallon tank. Compressor work perfect. The motor was replaced who knows how many years ago, but works perfectly fine too. Its a dayton 230 volt 5hp single phase motor. When it was installed, it was just bolted down and slotted holes were not made for belt adjustment, also it was bolted down in the wrong spot making the pulley run offset from the compressor. So the belts running at a angle plus not having proper tension made it go through belts quickly. They got tired of it and bought a new compressor.
All I need to do is remove the motor, line it up with the compressor, make some slotted holes, get some belts and its back to working like new. Also the line running from the compressor to the tank got broke when it was removed (might be able to see it in the picture) But thats easy to replace (no damage whatsoever to the tank). Also the line going to the pressure switch got pinched when that line broke, but thats easy and cheap to replace also.

Biggest problem, will be finding somewhere to put it!!!...lol I will probably build a covered steel mesh "house" for it on the outside of my building. Also gotta figure out how to get it home too.

I cant believe I finally got lucky for once! I have been drooling over large tank, belt driven cast iron compressors for years. In fact I was just drooling over them at lowes last weekend. The cheap 33 gallon oil less cfraftman I have now just barely gets me by. A die grinder puts a whooping on it bad. I no longer will have that issue!
I'm just so happy I had to gloat about it a bit...lol

Well I have been slowing collecting parts for this over the last few months and working on it here and there. Pulled the compressor and motor off the tank. Removed all the plugs, hung it up by a forklift and steam cleaned a huge pile of gunk out of the bottom of the tank. Changed the oil in the compressor (used genuine IR oil)
Got a new pressure switch, tank check valve, unloader line, drain plug with a ball valve, had to get a new pulley bushing for the motor, a pad to set the tank on, 20ft of 8 guage 3 conductor rubber coated wire to power it, a new regulator and coalescing filter for in the shop, etc....
Ge the tank home last weekend, cleaned the outside and painted it. Took yesterday off work so I could have a couple days to work on it. Got the compressor back on it, built a new line to the tank out of copper line. Set the motor back on there, measured for belts, got some belts at napa, marked holes for the motow with it lined up, drilled and slotted the holes, wired it and gave it a go.
The pulley on the compressor wobbled bad and was trying to throw the belt. WTF. Then it hit me. I remember a few years ago hearing one of the guys say they tipped it over when they removed it. I bet it fell right onto the pulley
I pull it off and stick a dial indacator on it. Its off by over .035!
Looks like a new crankshaft is gonna run me around $250!!! Unless I can find a way to straighten this one.
Just my luck. I thought I had finally lucked out, only to find this problem. I have already spent way too much time and money on this thing to stop here and scrap it or part it out.

[EagleMark]

Pretty good, you removed the spammer link I saw in the email, you also did not post as required in introductions? So why should I not delete this and ban you?

Why force a girl, who is really different then a boy face it! To do things they don't want to? Some have the desire, it's what attracted me to my wife od 28 years. She could wear a short skirt and heels and act like a lady and the next day be helping me swap motors, detail and paint and engine comparment, her father brought her up well, but she waqs still a lady first! Not many like her!

[JeepsAndGuns]

Well, I found about a foot long peice of thick wall tubing that fit the crank real close. Using my dial indacator, I got the bend pointing up. I then put the pipe on the crank, then put a crow bar in the other end, sat on the end of that, and took a short handled 5lb slege hammer and hit the end of the crank. After lot of banging, measureing with the indacator, I was able to get it down to .003 out. Pretty dang close. I knocked the flywheel/pulley back on it and gave it a go. It still has a very slight wobble, but I think it shouldnt hurt it for the light home duty I will be using it for. Now if I was using it for a shop that would be a different story.
I ran it and found a leak on the outlet reducer busing, had to remove that and reseal. Also found the unloader valve is leaking when its running. Its a brand new switch. So I contacted the seller and they are supposed to be sending a replacement unloader.

[dave w]

Well, I found about a foot long peice of thick wall tubing that fit the crank real close. Using my dial indacator, I got the bend pointing up. I then put the pipe on the crank, then put a crow bar in the other end, sat on the end of that, and took a short handled 5lb slege hammer and hit the end of the crank. After lot of banging, measureing with the indacator, I was able to get it down to .003 out. Pretty dang close. I knocked the flywheel/pulley back on it and gave it a go. It still has a very slight wobble, but I think it shouldnt hurt it for the light home duty I will be using it for. Now if I was using it for a shop that would be a different story.
I ran it and found a leak on the outlet reducer busing, had to remove that and reseal. Also found the unloader valve is leaking when its running. Its a brand new switch. So I contacted the seller and they are supposed to be sending a replacement unloader.

I've had SBC cranks straightened by machine shops that have crank grinding equipment. Maybe in the near future you can get your compressor crank professionally straightened?

dave w

[JeepsAndGuns]

I've had SBC cranks straightened by machine shops that have crank grinding equipment. Maybe in the near future you can get your compressor crank professionally straightened?

dave w

I am going to keep a close eye on it. There is no play in the bearings right now. If I feel any start, I will stop, disassemble and check my options. Either try and find a shop to straighten it, or replace. But I am thinking with the light duty I will be using it for, it might not run enough to hurt anything. It spins relatively slow. Using a pulley calculator online, it puts the compressor at about 775 rpm. Owners manual say max of 1000 rpm, min of 400 rpm. Now if it was spinning near max rpm, or I was running it all day every day, it would be a different story.

[1project2many]

Now if it was spinning near max rpm, or I was running it all day every day, it would be a different story.

If you calculate the amount of energy stored in that flywheel you might just change your mind. A 50#, 14" diameter flywheel rotating at 775 rpm that got loose would accelerate to 32.28 miles per hour and would make contact with an object with over 3 hp at the OD.

[EagleMark]

You forgot to mention all the damage?

[1project2many]

Like this?

Amoskeag_Flywheel_Explosion.jpg

I also didn't mention the 5900 lbs of centrifugal force that comes into play if it breaks when hitting the floor.

Don't f#ck with spinny sh!t.

[JeepsAndGuns]

Its a hair over 14 inch, but far from 50 lbs. I would say closer to 10-15 lbs if I had to guess. Its lighter than it looks.

[1project2many]

:)

Still 32 mph but the force values are lower.

[JeepsAndGuns]

I am going to keep checking around. Local shop says they dont straighten cranks.
I have a parts catalog, owners manual and some other data I got from ingersoll rand. I emailed them the serial number and they told me it was built in aug of 97 and emailed the books in pdf format. It lists the crankshaft for the model 242 as 32146052. The only place I found that listed a crank with that factory part number was $250. I found another place that listed a crank for a IR model 242 for $165, I could handle that, but the part number was different.
$250 but correct part number:
http://www.ecompressedair.com/Produc...urer=Ingersoll Rand

$165, but different part number (but says type 30 model 242, which is what this thing is):
http://www.compressorpartsstore.com/...kshaft_242.htm

[1project2many]

I think you were on the right track with straightening. It's bang n check, over and over, with forged cranks. So keep working it.