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Thread: Whatever!!!!!!!!! Gearhead-EFI Edition

  1. #1336
    Fuel Injected! JeepsAndGuns's Avatar
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    Well it looks like they are sending me a replacement. Just got a tracking number email from fedex.
    Talked with the tech/customer support guy, sent some pics showing how close it was to the block, explained the leak and gave him proof I bought it.
    I still do not think I am going to put it on. Just sell it and buy the JBA header.
    79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy

    93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver

    99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.

  2. #1337
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    Second the elite's have a set on the camino been in there for 7 years and just now picked up a minor leak at the collector. Going to fix it when the rest of the parts come in for the wideband instal.

  3. #1338
    Fuel Injected! JeepsAndGuns's Avatar
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    SCORE! SCORE! SCORE!
    *HAPPY DANCE*

    Just picked this up:





    Total price $0.00
    Asked the right guy at the right time, and he gave it to me. Works perfectly fine! Couldnt read the tank because of paint, but I think its either a 60 or 80 gallon tank. Compressor work perfect. The motor was replaced who knows how many years ago, but works perfectly fine too. Its a dayton 230 volt 5hp single phase motor. When it was installed, it was just bolted down and slotted holes were not made for belt adjustment, also it was bolted down in the wrong spot making the pulley run offset from the compressor. So the belts running at a angle plus not having proper tension made it go through belts quickly. They got tired of it and bought a new compressor.
    All I need to do is remove the motor, line it up with the compressor, make some slotted holes, get some belts and its back to working like new. Also the line running from the compressor to the tank got broke when it was removed (might be able to see it in the picture) But thats easy to replace (no damage whatsoever to the tank). Also the line going to the pressure switch got pinched when that line broke, but thats easy and cheap to replace also.

    Biggest problem, will be finding somewhere to put it!!!...lol I will probably build a covered steel mesh "house" for it on the outside of my building. Also gotta figure out how to get it home too.

    I cant believe I finally got lucky for once! I have been drooling over large tank, belt driven cast iron compressors for years. In fact I was just drooling over them at lowes last weekend. The cheap 33 gallon oil less cfraftman I have now just barely gets me by. A die grinder puts a whooping on it bad. I no longer will have that issue!
    I'm just so happy I had to gloat about it a bit...lol
    79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy

    93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver

    99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.

  4. #1339
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeepsAndGuns View Post
    SCORE! SCORE! SCORE!
    *HAPPY DANCE*

    Just picked this up:





    Total price $0.00
    Asked the right guy at the right time, and he gave it to me. Works perfectly fine! Couldnt read the tank because of paint, but I think its either a 60 or 80 gallon tank. Compressor work perfect. The motor was replaced who knows how many years ago, but works perfectly fine too. Its a dayton 230 volt 5hp single phase motor. When it was installed, it was just bolted down and slotted holes were not made for belt adjustment, also it was bolted down in the wrong spot making the pulley run offset from the compressor. So the belts running at a angle plus not having proper tension made it go through belts quickly. They got tired of it and bought a new compressor.
    All I need to do is remove the motor, line it up with the compressor, make some slotted holes, get some belts and its back to working like new. Also the line running from the compressor to the tank got broke when it was removed (might be able to see it in the picture) But thats easy to replace (no damage whatsoever to the tank). Also the line going to the pressure switch got pinched when that line broke, but thats easy and cheap to replace also.

    Biggest problem, will be finding somewhere to put it!!!...lol I will probably build a covered steel mesh "house" for it on the outside of my building. Also gotta figure out how to get it home too.

    I cant believe I finally got lucky for once! I have been drooling over large tank, belt driven cast iron compressors for years. In fact I was just drooling over them at lowes last weekend. The cheap 33 gallon oil less cfraftman I have now just barely gets me by. A die grinder puts a whooping on it bad. I no longer will have that issue!
    I'm just so happy I had to gloat about it a bit...lol
    Great find I once traded one of these for a 1970 Barracuda track car. You should be able to cross the model number in ingersol to get the specs on the head. If you clean off that plate under the compressor pulley I'm betting you'll find the tank data as well. Just be careful it may be ink stamped not steel transfer punch.

  5. #1340
    Fuel Injected! JeepsAndGuns's Avatar
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    Yea, its just got a couple layers of paint on it so I couldnt make out. Just need to sand it down a little bit.
    79 Jeep Cherokee, AMC 401, T-18 manual trans, hydroboost, 16197427 MPFI system---the toy

    93 Jeep YJ Wrangler, 4.0L, 5 speed, 8.8 rear, homebrew hub conversion and big brakes, hydroboost, 2.5in OME lift, 31x10.50's---the daily driver

    99 Jeep WJ Grand Cherokee limited, 4.0L, auto, 2wd, leather and power everything, 99% stock---the long distance highway ride.

  6. #1341
    Fuel Injected! jim_in_dorris's Avatar
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    Well, decided to make sure the wife's S10 Blazer was safe for her trip later this month. It has an oil leak at the oil filter relocation adapter and the input seal on the transfer case is toast. I bought all the parts, so today my son and I pulled it into the dealership where he works for do some quick repairs. Rear dif. needed a fluid change, so while we were at it, we did that. It also needed an oil change, so I drained the oil. Removed the drive lines, crossmembers, and dropped the transfer case to replace the seal. It was as hard as a rock. We got 3 quarts or better of tranny fluid out of the fill plug before we pulled the drain plug. The vacuum lines were full of tranny fluid too. Then we tackled the filter relocation adapter problem, it really needed a new 0-ring. While we were in there we noticed that the 1 year old oil lines from the adapter to the filter are also leaking. Great, I am sure that's not warranty. Buttoned that all up, ready to put the transfer case back in, and the gasket that goes between the transmission and transfer case was the wrong gasket. AMCO sold me the wrong one, and none of the parts stores in town even show a listing for the gasket. So I had to call my wife to come pick us up. Tomorrow between classes, I will go get a new gasket from AMCO and see if the parts store where I got the oil lines have another one. I sure hope this fixes everything.
    Last edited by jim_in_dorris; 03-03-2014 at 08:44 AM.
    Square body stepsides forever!!!

  7. #1342
    Super Moderator dave w's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jim_in_dorris View Post
    Well, decided to make sure the wife's S10 Blazer was safe for her trip later this month. It has an oil leak at the oil filter relocation adapter and the input seal on the transfer case is toast. I bought all the parts, so today my son and I pulled it into the dealership where he works for do some quick repairs. Rear dif. needed a fluid change, so while we were at it, we did that. It also needed an oil change, so I drained the oil. Removed the drive lines, crossmembers, and dropped the transfer case to replace the seal. It was as hard as a rock. We got 3 quarts or better of tranny fluid out of the fill plug before we pulled the drain plug. The vacuum lines were full of tranny fluid too. Then we tackled the filter relocation adapter problem, it really needed a new 0-ring. While we were in there we noticed that the 1 year old oil lines from the adapter to the filter are also leaking. Great, I am sure that's not warranty. Buttoned that all up, ready to put the transfer case back in, and the gasket that goes between the transmission and transfer case was the wrong gasket. AMCO sold me the wrong one, and none of the parts stores in town even show a listing for the gasket. So I had to call my wife to come pick us up. Tomorrow between classes, I will go get a new gasket from AMCO and see if the parts store where I got the oil lines have another one. I sure hope this fixes everything.
    I used to work on daily drivers for extra income, but things like your experience of a wrong gasket had me reconsider the benefits of working on a daily driver for extra income. I now work on what I call "Sunday Drivers". I live in near Portland Oregon, so "Sun Day Driver" has two meanings.

    Thanks for sharing.

    dave w

  8. #1343
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
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    I've got 2 daily drivers, that way I always have something to chase parts with!

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
    -= =-

  9. #1344
    Fuel Injected! jim_in_dorris's Avatar
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    Yeah, all three of us have cars, so we are not down, but the Blazer is on the lift in my son's bay at work until we get it back together, so we have to finish it. Not really a problem, just didn't want to take 2 days. We still have to rotate the tires, but that isn't a big job either. I usually spend Monday's grading papers, but not tomorrow. Next week we will work on my son's toyota, then after that, I need to do a wheel bearing in my truck. Old vehicles really need constant attention to keep them in top shape, so I am really grateful for the help I get from my son.
    Square body stepsides forever!!!

  10. #1345
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    Doesn't your son work for a GM dealer? No gasket in stock?

    The vacuum switch in the transfer case has failed and is allowing ATF into the vacuum lines. Dorman sells a replacement switch, # 49315
    The _only_ place I've found to buy a seal that will last is from the GM dealer. The aftermarket solution consisting of two small seals is not worth the effort imo and usually leaks soon after the job is complete.
    If the oil lines are leaking at the crimp fitting you might want to skip buying a replacement. The combination of low pressure hose and aluminum tubing and crimp bands does not provide for an effective long term seal. Cut the crimp band off then use hose clamps to fasten and seal the hose and I believe you'll have an effective fix for much less.
    Silicone sealer can be used in place of the gasket although it's much easier to use the gasket if available.

    Yep... when you own old vehicles it's best to own more than one just in case something breaks.

  11. #1346
    Fuel Injected! PJG1173's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1project2many View Post
    Silicone sealer can be used in place of the gasket although it's much easier to use the gasket if available.
    I never use the factory gasket. I always use RTV. X2 on the bad switch too
    87 4Runner, 15" spring lift, 3" body, chevy vortec 355, 5.29 gears, 38.5x15.5x15" Boggers, 280hr, 16168625 running $0D
    93 S10, 36x12.5x15 TSL's, custom turbo headers, 266HR cam, p&p vortec heads, $0D Marine MPFI with 8psi boost.
    05 Silverado, 2' lift, 4" exhaust, Bully Dog programmer,

  12. #1347
    Fuel Injected! jim_in_dorris's Avatar
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    1Project, he works at a Dodge dealership. It turned out that the gasket was correct, just punched slightly out of register. The new gasket fit perfectly, same part number. I hope this seal doesn't leak, but it isn't the 2 seal solution. I will replace the vacuum switch. (the guy at AMCO said it was bad too.) Thanks for the tip on the oil lines, I will do that.
    Square body stepsides forever!!!

  13. #1348
    Fuel Injected! PJG1173's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jim_in_dorris View Post
    1Project, he works at a Dodge dealership. It turned out that the gasket was correct, just punched slightly out of register. The new gasket fit perfectly, same part number. I hope this seal doesn't leak, but it isn't the 2 seal solution. I will replace the vacuum switch. (the guy at AMCO said it was bad too.) Thanks for the tip on the oil lines, I will do that.
    I have never had any luck with the one lip input shaft seal. I always use the double lip seal.
    87 4Runner, 15" spring lift, 3" body, chevy vortec 355, 5.29 gears, 38.5x15.5x15" Boggers, 280hr, 16168625 running $0D
    93 S10, 36x12.5x15 TSL's, custom turbo headers, 266HR cam, p&p vortec heads, $0D Marine MPFI with 8psi boost.
    05 Silverado, 2' lift, 4" exhaust, Bully Dog programmer,

  14. #1349
    Fuel Injected! jim_in_dorris's Avatar
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    The factory 1 lip seal lasted 180,000 miles, hopefully this lasts 50,000 miles, by then I will have most likely replaced the vehicle.
    Square body stepsides forever!!!

  15. #1350
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    I never use the factory gasket. I always use RTV.
    Works real good but messy if you reach up to tighten nuts and silicone has squeezed out around adapter and xfer case.

    The factory 1 lip seal lasted 180,000 miles
    Single lip?? Factory seal is double lip. GM 12547466.


    Also, Dodge and Jeep use same family NP231 / NP233 transfer case as S10 Blazer. Look at fullsize dodge trucks and 2nd generation Dakota and you might find same seal and gasket. Hmmm... found aftermarket number 710928 for dual lip seal supposed to fit. Pictures show dual lip, but dimensions should be confirmed.

    All info for reference of course. Hopefully you won't need it.

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