Tuning out Knock Sensors to get rid of code 43 in my 95 LT1

[CapriceLT1]

LT4 module swap DOES NOT require LT4 knock sensor. The pins are the same. what did you mean in the first quote? how do i test the sensor for 2.5 if both are connected?

"To check knock wires there should be 5 volts on wire key on wire disconnected from knock sensor and about 2.5 volts connected, each side. The code sets if the voltage is outside the range of 1.5-3.5V."


I am going to have my dad help me with the electrical tomorrow since its not my best area in the automotive field, add some grounds, test the circuits and wiring etc

[EagleMark]

Just probe the knock sensor wire or plug while connected for about 2.5 volts and 5 volts disconnected. Just print that stuff for your dad, if he has been around a Digital Volt Meter it will all make sense.

I understand the LT4 knock module plugs in and is less sensative for that aluminum head roller rocker design. I just don't understand why it also has differant KS part numbers and test procedure. But it's been done for so long I just took it for granted it worked untill I looked into it? Since it has worked for so many I don't think it's your issue, just have a hard time understanding how with the facts...

[CapriceLT1]

I will let the old man look at the forum lol. Well, I lost the negative battery ground cable (baby cable that bolts to side fender) i started the car and it zapped right through it so I'm getting new negative cables since a small fire occured. Too much power went through the cable because the car has so much cancerous rust that it burned through the cable. I was in a parking lot at work put the fire out and was able to start it up and after i left the lot i lost my brakes. Got home and a newer line had a hole rubbed through it. Im going to keep this one alive as long as i can and buy a RUST FREE 9C1 or SS (so if your in NY and reading this and know someone whos getting rid of one let me know!) Shes in the driveway right now but as the week goes on I will be adding a few cables here and there.

I was thinking a good spot would be where the negative battery cable bolts to the middle of the block, to put a cable from there to the frame. Would that be a good spot or would it "cancel" it out, do you know what i mean. Like its a bad spot, it would negatively affect the point of having the battery cable being there by adding a cable from there to the frame. Let me know what you think, and thanks! I really appreciate everything!

[EagleMark]

Ground from block to frame is a good thing anywhere.

I have a rust free Roadmaster for sale, but was hit in driver door... and a rust free Caprice wagon for sale, needs motor... both white woodgrain... all B bodys here are rust free, no salt.

With any luck may have a 1996 Z28 next week with 55k, garage kept!

[cmaje72]

More grounds never hurts. I like to run a ground from the alternator bracket directly to the battery in addition to the frame.
I'm in your area BTW. I live out in derby but I'm downtown every day for work. I have a 94 F-Body LT1 in my wagoneer but I'm running the one year 93 ECU.

[nsperf]

Man I wish you were closer I would take that RM

[CapriceLT1]

More grounds never hurts. I like to run a ground from the alternator bracket directly to the battery in addition to the frame.
I'm in your area BTW. I live out in derby but I'm downtown every day for work. I have a 94 F-Body LT1 in my wagoneer but I'm running the one year 93 ECU.

I had to part out the 9C1, still on the road but the trans is going and it has WNY rust so with that plus the electrical problems, i bought an s10. Its really what i need since i use the caprice AS a truck as it is lol. I would like to have a 95 T/A With the LT1 one day so im saving the engine and some performance parts i have and parting the rest out. I will be tuning the "sten" though!! Hopefully soon.

[CapriceLT1]

Ground from block to frame is a good thing anywhere.

I have a rust free Roadmaster for sale, but was hit in driver door... and a rust free Caprice wagon for sale, needs motor... both white woodgrain... all B bodys here are rust free, no salt.

With any luck may have a 1996 Z28 next week with 55k, garage kept!

NICE!!!! The "sten" has surface rust but for 120k and basically solid body for 2000, i couldnt beat it. Im going to paint it, cold air intake, maybe e-fan next summer and that it. Not bad for a 96. They are really pricey with trucks around here