TP FLAGS-OXYGEN SENSORS

[stew86MCSS396]

Stew, i do recall seeing this page, thanks. from post #6 and #7 i downloaded 5 of the 6 1994 related bins i will l compare and try to make sense of these.
downloaded post#8 WOT BLM. NOT SURE BUT THE END RESULT LOOKS LIKE better throttle response? i think my EE hack saw mine @WOT around 96%, forgot where exactly i was fiddling around with it
post#9 looks very helpful but didnt download yet
post#10 not sure on this, maybe i already have the latest version??? IDK?
post #11,#13 and #14 , will read about these...especially #14

thanks for referring that thread

I'm in the same boat as far as never have tuned an LT1 before. Never crossed that bridge, yet but definitely want to learn. As far as ^^^post #8, you need to dial in your VE tables before using that tool to dial in PE (power enrichment). It's a little gray to me but you disable MAF to tune VE w MAP??? Is MAF tuning anything like LV8 in '165 TPI???

Can you elaborate...are you using a cable drive from the 4L60E to drive the stock speedo? The stock speedo can provide a 2k pulse signal but Idk if the LT1 PCM can use it. '7730 you can uncheck mag sensor. If anything the PCM is probably looking for the 40 tooth reluctor pulse per mile. Someone correct me if I have this all wrong. Oh are you using both in the same tailhousing???

[Neukam]

I made a few small changes from the bin you uploaded. I'll discuss it later when I have more time.

I used this XDF http://fbodytech.com/eex-tunerpro-definition/

Edit: Made a revision to uploaded file

[Neukam]

The changes I made are as follows:

1. set EGR enable minimum RPM to maximum value to disable EGR
2. set EGR enable maximum RPM to minimum value to disable EGR
3. set AIR enable minimum coolant temp to max value to disable AIR
4. unchecked AIR pump enable to disable AIR
5. unchecked Oil Level Diagnostic (error 96). I believe this is for the low oil lamp circuit check.


Things I noticed:

1. Fan 2 diagnostic (error 78) has been disabled. Are you only using one fan speed? I would advise rewiring for dual speed and enabling the error diagnostic. The fans will normally come on at low speed and only run at high speed when necessary (probably never if you dont have A/C). They will be quieter, less obnoxious and put less load on the alternator. See lower section of diagram attached. If you're running a cooler thermostat, you may want to lower the fan enable temps.
2. All the O2 diagnostics are set (as they should be). Did you change these from what they were in the PCM? Perhaps your XDF is not correct?
3. VSS errors 72 and 97 are both set. Error 72 is for the VSS input signal. Leave that set. Error 97 is for the output FROM the PCM that would be used for speedo, cruise, etc. I assume you have nothing connected and the PCM doesn't see a pullup. You can disable that error if you're not planning to use the output.
4. I'm seeing MAP and MAF diagnostics as both checked (errors 33 and 48). Leave those checked. If you're getting a MAP error 34, check to make sure you're getting 5v and Low Ref to the sensor and a good signal from the sensor. Double check your pinout to make sure it's correct. There's either a problem with the circuit or a problem with the sensor or both. Troubleshoot and correct as necessary before moving on.
5. You said you removed the canister purge solenoid which is causing error 26. I see comments in the XDF indicating that BLM behavior is tied to CCP activation. I'm not sure how the PCM will respond to leaving the purge solenoid disconnected and/or disabling the error code. I would recommend installing a solenoid and making the system functional. There's really no reason not to use it.

[toyinhawaii]

The changes I made are as follows:

1. set EGR enable minimum RPM to maximum value to disable EGR
2. set EGR enable maximum RPM to minimum value to disable EGR
3. set AIR enable minimum coolant temp to max value to disable AIR
4. unchecked AIR pump enable to disable AIR
5. unchecked Oil Level Diagnostic (error 96). I believe this is for the low oil lamp circuit check.


Things I noticed:

1. Fan 2 diagnostic (error 78) has been disabled. Are you only using one fan speed? I would advise rewiring for dual speed and enabling the error diagnostic. The fans will normally come on at low speed and only run at high speed when necessary (probably never if you dont have A/C). They will be quieter, less obnoxious and put less load on the alternator. See lower section of diagram attached. If you're running a cooler thermostat, you may want to lower the fan enable temps.
2. All the O2 diagnostics are set (as they should be). Did you change these from what they were in the PCM? Perhaps your XDF is not correct?
3. VSS errors 72 and 97 are both set. Error 72 is for the VSS input signal. Leave that set. Error 97 is for the output FROM the PCM that would be used for speedo, cruise, etc. I assume you have nothing connected and the PCM doesn't see a pullup. You can disable that error if you're not planning to use the output.
4. I'm seeing MAP and MAF diagnostics as both checked (errors 33 and 48). Leave those checked. If you're getting a MAP error 34, check to make sure you're getting 5v and Low Ref to the sensor and a good signal from the sensor. Double check your pinout to make sure it's correct. There's either a problem with the circuit or a problem with the sensor or both. Troubleshoot and correct as necessary before moving on.
5. You said you removed the canister purge solenoid which is causing error 26. I see comments in the XDF indicating that BLM behavior is tied to CCP activation. I'm not sure how the PCM will respond to leaving the purge solenoid disconnected and/or disabling the error code. I would recommend installing a solenoid and making the system functional. There's really no reason not to use it.

Hi Nuekam,

The changes:

for #1 and 2...i saw your changes, what would happen if they where just left alone? was there a table where this was referenced?

#3.... same question as above

#4 and 5...thank you



Things you noticed:

#1 yes, both #77 and 78 are disabled, IDK, i think street performance(SP) could have done that. Fans are on high(yes, very loud). i currently have both hooked up to i think to the primary(have primary and secondary) and they come on when the temp gets up there or when i rev it up. i would like to rewire it for 1 fan to cool (i think thats how i have it now and it seems to react accordingly)and 1 fan for when the A/C is on and/or both come on when temp. is high. the top half of your schematic for the 95' looks very similar to my service manual for the 94'. it was a few yrs ago when i finally got it at its current state. understanding the wiring(being my first time) was...lets say...challenging (LOL). i believe i understand for my a/c to work, i need to rely on my elkys orig. set up. that is why all of my A/C flags are disabled. which half of your 95' diagram is suited for my end result? i'm pretty sure my thermostat is at OEM 210 degrees.

#2 oh, my mistake?? i thought before i saw only ERR44 was set and ERR13,45,63,64,65 was disabled. but i noticed all were set ... strange??? . no, not to my knowledge, i havent changed anything. sorry, you mentioned again about the XDF possibly being incorrect. not sure on what you mean, why would it be different?? maybe this had something to do with what i saw before about seeing/not seeing the ERR codes.

#3 what i have in place of the VSS is the conversion to cable drive (post #7). is that what you mean by "I assume you have nothing connected and the PCM doesn't see a pullup"?? i did pull the cruise control box off the caprice and i would eventually like to hook it back up.

#4 ok, i will leave ERR33 and 48 set. yes, on the ERR 34 and i will use my service manual and your advise to guide me thru trouble shooting it

#5 yes, i removed the purge solenoid. i'm not sure i follow you on " I see comments in the XDF indicating that BLM behavior is tied to CCP activation. " , ok, i can re-install the solenoid, i kept it. although i removed it because i heard it could be/should be done. cant recall the reasoning why, that was some yrs back.

thank you very much for all the guidance and wisdom!

[Neukam]

Hi Nuekam,

The changes:

for #1 and 2...i saw your changes, what would happen if they where just left alone? was there a table where this was referenced?

If EGR is commanded, The PCM might make fuel and spark corrections to compensate for the EGR flow that it expects, even if the system is physically or electrically disabled. By setting the enable parameters to impossible or implausible values, we prevent EGR from ever being commanded.

#3.... same question as above

When the AIR system is commanded, the PCM may increase IAC in anticipation of the additional load. You probably wouldn't ever notice, but if it's not there we should disable it. It's best not to lie to the computer unless you have to.

#4 and 5...thank you

You're welcome

Things you noticed:

#1 yes, both #77 and 78 are disabled, IDK, i think street performance(SP) could have done that.

Looking at another bin that I believe to be stock, 77 is disabled and 78 is enabled. There should be no problem with leaving both disabled, but enabling them can make troubleshooting easier if there's ever a problem. I'm not sure if those error codes would set a MIL, but they would be available to see on the scanner.

Fans are on high(yes, very loud). i currently have both hooked up to i think to the primary(have primary and secondary) and they come on when the temp gets up there or when i rev it up. i would like to rewire it for 1 fan to cool (i think thats how i have it now and it seems to react accordingly)and 1 fan for when the A/C is on and/or both come on when temp. is high. the top half of your schematic for the 95' looks very similar to my service manual for the 94'.

I recommend wiring as per the lower half of the diagram.

In the upper half of the diagram, the PCM will energize relay 1, causing fan 1 to run at full speed. If necessary, it will energize relay 2, turning on the second fan at full speed in addition to the first. This strategy works, but you will get more noise and you won't get even airflow across the radiator and condenser in the primary cooling mode.

In the lower half of the diagram, the PCM first energizes relay 1, supplying positive power to the left fan. The left fan negative runs through the deenergized relay 3 and through the right fan positive, thus putting both fans in series and both fans running at reduced speed, noise, and electrical load. The negative of the right fan is always grounded. If necessary, The PCM will activate the secondary output which energized relays 2 and 3. Relay 2 will supply 12v power to the right cooling fan causing it to run at full speed. Relay 3 will divert the negative of the left fan (which was previously connected to the positive of the right fan) to ground, causing it to also run at full speed.

To summarize the lower half of the diagram
- Primary output energized - relay 1 energized - fans in series running at reduced speed
- Primary and secondary outputs energized - relays 1,2, and 3 energized - both fans running in parallel at full speed
- Secondary output energized without primary output (this is a failure mode) - right fan runs at full speed, left fan does not run

it was a few yrs ago when i finally got it at its current state. understanding the wiring(being my first time) was...lets say...challenging (LOL).

A lot of effort goes into doing swaps like these properly. There's a lot to learn and a lot of details to work through. Be proud that you have stuck with it and committed to finishing it. Many people don't and abandon their projects. Give yourself a pat on the back.

i believe i understand for my a/c to work, i need to rely on my elkys orig. set up. that is why all of my A/C flags are disabled.

Ideally, you would wire the A/C to mimic the donor vehicle, including the pressure sensor on the high pressure line. This would allow proper IAC compensation with A/C engagement, wide open throttle cutout, and proper fan control based on system demand.

which half of your 95' diagram is suited for my end result? i'm pretty sure my thermostat is at OEM 210 degrees.

Technically, either way should work, but the lower half would be ideal. According to RockAuto's catalog, OE thermostat is 180F. I can neither confirm, nor deny.

#2 oh, my mistake?? i thought before i saw only ERR44 was set and ERR13,45,63,64,65 was disabled. but i noticed all were set ... strange??? . no, not to my knowledge, i havent changed anything. sorry, you mentioned again about the XDF possibly being incorrect. not sure on what you mean, why would it be different?? maybe this had something to do with what i saw before about seeing/not seeing the ERR codes.

The XDF is what TunerPro uses to interpret the binary data in the bin. If the XDF file loaded into TunerPro doesn't match the bin that's being edited, or if it is just plain wrong, you will see incorrect values. What you were seeing, did not match what I was seeing. That is why I mentioned the XDF possibly being incorrect. The XDF that I linked to seems to be correct and, for all practical purposes, complete. You are unlikely to find an XDF that's totally complete, but many tables and values that are missing from the XDF just don't need to be changed...ever.

#3 what i have in place of the VSS is the conversion to cable drive (post #7). is that what you mean by "I assume you have nothing connected and the PCM doesn't see a pullup"?? i did pull the cruise control box off the caprice and i would eventually like to hook it back up.

I believed that I understood your VSS sensor setup, and your response to stew86MCSS396 has confirmed it. The PCM reads the VSS input from the sensor you installed in the back of the trans housing. This tells the PCM the transmission output shaft speed. The PCM then converts the output shaft speed to vehicle speed, compensating for gear ratio and tire size. This vehicle speed data is used for many things, including idle control, speed limiter, and transmission control. Error 72 corresponds to this sensor input. The PCM also has a VSS output that sends a 4000 pulse per mile signal (calculated from the VSS input) to other devices in the vehicle like the electronic speedometer, cruise control module, ABS, radio, outside temperature display, etc. The other devices have a pullup resistor that pulls the voltage on the PCM's output high. When the PCM pulses it's output, it pulls the voltage low. When the PCM is not outputting a signal, it monitors it's output to verify that it's being pulled high by another device. In this way it can detect if it's output is open or shorted to ground. Error 97 corresponds to this diagnostic routine on the PCM's VSS output. If you don't have another device connected to the PCM's VSS output, the output will never be pulled high, and the PCM will set error 97. Disabling Error 97 shouldn't actually affect the output, only the diagnostic routine. You can disable it and when you connect your cruise control module you can decide if you want to reenable it.

#4 ok, i will leave ERR33 and 48 set. yes, on the ERR 34 and i will use my service manual and your advise to guide me thru trouble shooting it

Despite being number 4 on my list, this should be your first priority.

#5 yes, i removed the purge solenoid. i'm not sure i follow you on " I see comments in the XDF indicating that BLM behavior is tied to CCP activation. " , ok, i can re-install the solenoid, i kept it. although i removed it because i heard it could be/should be done. cant recall the reasoning why, that was some yrs back.

Some parameters in some XDFs have comments. If you mouse over a parameter in the parameter tree, you will momentarily see a comment pop up if that parameter has one. Not all parameters have comments, and they are specific to (and inherited from) the XDF. If you select View>Parameter Comments, a Parameter Comments window will appear. This will show the comment for the active parameter that you have double clicked and opened. In the XDF that I linked, under CCP Enable - Min Coolant Temp there is the following comment

!!!!!!!!!!!!!! HERE BE DRAGONS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The charcoal canister purge system will not activate until this coolant temperature is reached.

!!WARNING!! On this platform the CCP system is directly linked to block learn mode behavior, specifically it is the sole factor in determining what causes the switch between the 'special' 16-18 cells and 'regular' cells

This means that until the CCP is active, regular BLM cells will not be used!

DO NOT change this until you understand what that means!

I don't know the details of how this particular PCM handles BLM. With that in mind, I'd prefer to trust the GM Engineers. Those guys are smarter than me. I don't see any harm in connecting the system if it's not too much trouble. It will have a minimal effect on air/fuel ratio (and the PCM will compensate for it) and it will keep some hydrocarbons out of the atmosphere. If you have all the components and can hook it back up easily, I would do so. If not, you can disable the code and monitor BLMs to make sure you don't get any undesirable behavior.

thank you very much for all the guidance and wisdom!

I don't know if I'm a wise man, although I've often been called a wisea--
You're welcome.

[toyinhawaii]

If EGR is commanded, The PCM might make fuel and spark corrections to compensate for the EGR flow that it expects, even if the system is physically or electrically disabled. By setting the enable parameters to impossible or implausible values, we prevent EGR from ever being commanded.



When the AIR system is commanded, the PCM may increase IAC in anticipation of the additional load. You probably wouldn't ever notice, but if it's not there we should disable it. It's best not to lie to the computer unless you have to.




You're welcome



Looking at another bin that I believe to be stock, 77 is disabled and 78 is enabled. There should be no problem with leaving both disabled, but enabling them can make troubleshooting easier if there's ever a problem. I'm not sure if those error codes would set a MIL, but they would be available to see on the scanner.



I recommend wiring as per the lower half of the diagram.

In the upper half of the diagram, the PCM will energize relay 1, causing fan 1 to run at full speed. If necessary, it will energize relay 2, turning on the second fan at full speed in addition to the first. This strategy works, but you will get more noise and you won't get even airflow across the radiator and condenser in the primary cooling mode.

In the lower half of the diagram, the PCM first energizes relay 1, supplying positive power to the left fan. The left fan negative runs through the deenergized relay 3 and through the right fan positive, thus putting both fans in series and both fans running at reduced speed, noise, and electrical load. The negative of the right fan is always grounded. If necessary, The PCM will activate the secondary output which energized relays 2 and 3. Relay 2 will supply 12v power to the right cooling fan causing it to run at full speed. Relay 3 will divert the negative of the left fan (which was previously connected to the positive of the right fan) to ground, causing it to also run at full speed.

To summarize the lower half of the diagram
- Primary output energized - relay 1 energized - fans in series running at reduced speed
- Primary and secondary outputs energized - relays 1,2, and 3 energized - both fans running in parallel at full speed
- Secondary output energized without primary output (this is a failure mode) - right fan runs at full speed, left fan does not run



A lot of effort goes into doing swaps like these properly. There's a lot to learn and a lot of details to work through. Be proud that you have stuck with it and committed to finishing it. Many people don't and abandon their projects. Give yourself a pat on the back.



Ideally, you would wire the A/C to mimic the donor vehicle, including the pressure sensor on the high pressure line. This would allow proper IAC compensation with A/C engagement, wide open throttle cutout, and proper fan control based on system demand.



Technically, either way should work, but the lower half would be ideal. According to RockAuto's catalog, OE thermostat is 180F. I can neither confirm, nor deny.



The XDF is what TunerPro uses to interpret the binary data in the bin. If the XDF file loaded into TunerPro doesn't match the bin that's being edited, or if it is just plain wrong, you will see incorrect values. What you were seeing, did not match what I was seeing. That is why I mentioned the XDF possibly being incorrect. The XDF that I linked to seems to be correct and, for all practical purposes, complete. You are unlikely to find an XDF that's totally complete, but many tables and values that are missing from the XDF just don't need to be changed...ever.



I believed that I understood your VSS sensor setup, and your response to stew86MCSS396 has confirmed it. The PCM reads the VSS input from the sensor you installed in the back of the trans housing. This tells the PCM the transmission output shaft speed. The PCM then converts the output shaft speed to vehicle speed, compensating for gear ratio and tire size. This vehicle speed data is used for many things, including idle control, speed limiter, and transmission control. Error 72 corresponds to this sensor input. The PCM also has a VSS output that sends a 4000 pulse per mile signal (calculated from the VSS input) to other devices in the vehicle like the electronic speedometer, cruise control module, ABS, radio, outside temperature display, etc. The other devices have a pullup resistor that pulls the voltage on the PCM's output high. When the PCM pulses it's output, it pulls the voltage low. When the PCM is not outputting a signal, it monitors it's output to verify that it's being pulled high by another device. In this way it can detect if it's output is open or shorted to ground. Error 97 corresponds to this diagnostic routine on the PCM's VSS output. If you don't have another device connected to the PCM's VSS output, the output will never be pulled high, and the PCM will set error 97. Disabling Error 97 shouldn't actually affect the output, only the diagnostic routine. You can disable it and when you connect your cruise control module you can decide if you want to reenable it.



Despite being number 4 on my list, this should be your first priority.



Some parameters in some XDFs have comments. If you mouse over a parameter in the parameter tree, you will momentarily see a comment pop up if that parameter has one. Not all parameters have comments, and they are specific to (and inherited from) the XDF. If you select View>Parameter Comments, a Parameter Comments window will appear. This will show the comment for the active parameter that you have double clicked and opened. In the XDF that I linked, under CCP Enable - Min Coolant Temp there is the following comment



I don't know the details of how this particular PCM handles BLM. With that in mind, I'd prefer to trust the GM Engineers. Those guys are smarter than me. I don't see any harm in connecting the system if it's not too much trouble. It will have a minimal effect on air/fuel ratio (and the PCM will compensate for it) and it will keep some hydrocarbons out of the atmosphere. If you have all the components and can hook it back up easily, I would do so. If not, you can disable the code and monitor BLMs to make sure you don't get any undesirable behavior.



I don't know if I'm a wise man, although I've often been called a wisea--
You're welcome.

For the EGR and Air, very neat strategy for compensating/tricking the PCM.

Fans: yes, from your detailed explanation, the lower diagram would be best. but i would have to install a 3rd relay. i will do my best on understanding/interpreting the schematic for this option (cant guarantee it though LOL). i read this section over a few times yesterday and will continue to absorb it.

The A/C, i will study up more on this conversion to understand it (like the fans). a few guys over on ElCaminocentral have done this with their LT1's. i did do a search on Rockauto a while back on the the right bend/lengths of lines needed and another site for the 90 swivel needed coming out of the Comp. so the lines can clear the headers

For the thermostat, let me verify that, maybe it was the 210 degree operation temp. i was thinking about and not the degree of the thermostat

Thanks for the detailed info on the VSS

Will start testing on that MAF hopefully this weekend

I got my Purge solenoid, gonna have to fabricate a bracket for it to attach it to the side of the intake(its currently still attached to the intake covers bracket). Although i would eventually like to put a cover over the intake to make it look pretty. i didnt mention this but what i did with the Charcoal canister was i mounted it behind the Pass. side rear wheel on the frame, i found a nice little cozy spot for it, I hooked it up with the line from the tank and a 2-3 lb one way check valve. this was my idea of an alternate spot. Do you think this still serves a purpose as it is in a shorter distance being between it and the tank opposed to being mounted way up behind the headlights. oh, i noticed that the 90 angle rubber going into the throttle body and the one coming from the P.S. itself was rotted. Found a neat replacement hose for it cause those OEMs hoses are not available any more. A 90 degree rubber boot from a spark plug wire set does the job, perfect fit! lol Found a guy who posted a video of it on youtube. i love these Macgyver guys!

All in all, i read your reply yesterday. I'll absorb it all and start working on those items this weekend and let you know my accomplishments. Again thanks for the guidance and very well put instructions/replies.

[Neukam]

Fans: yes, from your detailed explanation, the lower diagram would be best. but i would have to install a 3rd relay. i will do my best on understanding/interpreting the schematic for this option (cant guarantee it though LOL). i read this section over a few times yesterday and will continue to absorb it.

I will upload a diagram that is a little more clear. It's for an LS, so ignore the PCM pin locations, but it functions the same.

The A/C, i will study up more on this conversion to understand it (like the fans). a few guys over on ElCaminocentral have done this with their LT1's. i did do a search on Rockauto a while back on the the right bend/lengths of lines needed and another site for the 90 swivel needed coming out of the Comp. so the lines can clear the headers

I'm uploading a diagram for the LT1, as well as a diagram that should be similar, if not identical, to your El Camino. On the El Camino, power comes from the A/C control switch, goes through the low pressure switch straight to the compressor. Disconnect that power feed from the compressor and route it to the PCM's A/C Request input. The PCM's A/C relay control will supply the ground to the A/C relay (that you will have to add), energizing it and supplying power to the compressor. The A/C ON signal gives the PCM feedback that the compressor has power and has (presumably) engaged. You'll probably have to add the diode in the compressor clutch circuit. It is there to protect the A/C ON signal input when the compressor is deenergized. A 1N4004 diode or similar should do just fine. The refrigerant pressure sensor is used for fan control and may be used for compressor control as well. I'm not sure.

For the thermostat, let me verify that, maybe it was the 210 degree operation temp. i was thinking about and not the degree of the thermostat

I think the stock thermostat is 180, which will probably put your operating temp around 190. I don't recall ever seeing a thermostat over 195. Note that not all temp sensors read the same. The sensor from the Caprice may read differently than the sensor from the El Camino using the El Camino's gauge. The dash gauge is not a precision instrument and may not be accurate with either sensor. If the coolant temperature is in question, verify it with a thermocouple or an infrared thermometer and take note of the gauge's position at that temperature. Note that infrared thermometers don't read accurately on shiny metal surfaces. If you need to measure the temperature of a shiny metal surface with an infrared thermometer, put a piece of masking tape on it to use as a target.

Thanks for the detailed info on the VSS

You're welcome

Will start testing on that MAF hopefully this weekend

I think you mean MAP

I got my Purge solenoid, gonna have to fabricate a bracket for it to attach it to the side of the intake(its currently still attached to the intake covers bracket). Although i would eventually like to put a cover over the intake to make it look pretty. i didnt mention this but what i did with the Charcoal canister was i mounted it behind the Pass. side rear wheel on the frame, i found a nice little cozy spot for it, I hooked it up with the line from the tank and a 2-3 lb one way check valve. this was my idea of an alternate spot. Do you think this still serves a purpose as it is in a shorter distance being between it and the tank opposed to being mounted way up behind the headlights. oh, i noticed that the 90 angle rubber going into the throttle body and the one coming from the P.S. itself was rotted. Found a neat replacement hose for it cause those OEMs hoses are not available any more. A 90 degree rubber boot from a spark plug wire set does the job, perfect fit! lol Found a guy who posted a video of it on youtube. i love these Macgyver guys!

The placement of the components shouldn't matter. You should remove the check valve. Most gas caps are set to relieve pressure at around 1psi. If it takes 2-3psi to overcome the check valve, tank pressure will vent through the cap, thus defeating the purpose. If you can run the hose from the the tank to the canister up high, or make a small vertical loop near the tank to minimize the amount of fuel that can get sloshed into the canister, that would be preferable. Dorman sells makes various rubber boots for CCP/PCV valves. You might find a suitable replacement hanging in the Help! section or near the PCV valves in your local parts store.

All in all, i read your reply yesterday. I'll absorb it all and start working on those items this weekend and let you know my accomplishments. Again thanks for the guidance and very well put instructions/replies.

Take you time and plan it out. Draw some diagrams if you need to.

[toyinhawaii]

I made a few small changes from the bin you uploaded. I'll discuss it later when I have more time.

I used this XDF http://fbodytech.com/eex-tunerpro-definition/

Edit: Made a revision to uploaded file

Hi Neukam,
I've been absorbing/reading about the EEX 4.1 Def. Usually I only have Sunday off and couple hrs during the weekdays. this is what i did since last week.

For EE Hack:Got the elky out for a datalog run up and down the street under 25 mph, but noticed when i saved the log, no Trans/Diag/AD info was saved...... IDK why.

EEX.xdf : i downloaded this from your link in Post #9, now i understand where you got those values from when i asked you in Post#13. i went thru all the folders and reviewed the comments.. Man! what a tutorial. i did understand about those particular flags/scalars/tables when it was explained in the comments on what they meant... to an extent of my brain understanding it all. i have this for you(skipping around those folders):

The Emission devices: great research done about the EGR table, answers my question of "where did you get these values"

Auto Transmission: wanted to read this section especially because of my shift kit i installed. But that didnt seem to be a subject, is anything adjusted for adding a shift kit?
On the "kickdown normal mode up/down shift point" i noticed the shift from 3rd-4th is @ 255 mph, really? of course there is probably some rational reason but just thought that was weird.

Instrument Calibration: Say i am driving down the highway side by side w/another car and their speedo is accurate @ say 55 mph but mine reads 45,50 60,65 etc. is this where i would go to adjust the VSS table?

Fan Control: still need to concentrate on wiring it up per your instructions/guidance

Error Check: CCP(ERR 26), we talked about this but since i have a 5 minute memory. I should be un-checking this in the flags right?

The last folder, the "unknown/Research"...the "DGDTT".... i thought that was hilarious.

I appreciate you taking the time in editing my Bin with the good guidance given in the EEX.xdf , along with your knowledge! I will be trying to accomplish the other task i need to do that we talked about and then a few more questions on the Cam and headers and i think after that, the next step would be flashing the PCM with the new Bin data and see how everything looks.

[Neukam]

Hi Neukam,
I've been absorbing/reading about the EEX 4.1 Def. Usually I only have Sunday off and couple hrs during the weekdays. this is what i did since last week.

For EE Hack:Got the elky out for a datalog run up and down the street under 25 mph, but noticed when i saved the log, no Trans/Diag/AD info was saved...... IDK why.

I've never used EE Hack. I'm not sure I can help you with this one. Sometimes when I have problems with a program, running it in Administrator mode helps.

EEX.xdf : i downloaded this from your link in Post #9, now i understand where you got those values from when i asked you in Post#13. i went thru all the folders and reviewed the comments.. Man! what a tutorial. i did understand about those particular flags/scalars/tables when it was explained in the comments on what they meant... to an extent of my brain understanding it all. i have this for you(skipping around those folders):

Some sharp people put a lot of hard work into that XDF. Many thanks to all of them.

Auto Transmission: wanted to read this section especially because of my shift kit i installed. But that didnt seem to be a subject, is anything adjusted for adding a shift kit?
On the "kickdown normal mode up/down shift point" i noticed the shift from 3rd-4th is @ 255 mph, really? of course there is probably some rational reason but just thought that was weird.

This is another example of setting a parameter to it's max value to disable the function. By setting the 3-4 shift in kickdown mode, the trans will never upshift to 4th while in kickdown mode. With the shift kit, you may need to adjust shift speed and line pressure parameters. I'm don't have any experience here, but you'll probably need to experiment with this to get it to shift the way you want it to. If you can log the PCM's learned adaptive values, that may give you some feedback on what you need to adjust.

Instrument Calibration: Say i am driving down the highway side by side w/another car and their speedo is accurate @ say 55 mph but mine reads 45,50 60,65 etc. is this where i would go to adjust the VSS table?

Yes. Are you planning to run an electronic speedometer? In your previous post, you seemed to indicate that you are using a mechanical speedometer. If that is the case, adjusting this will not affect your speedometer, but it will affect how the PCM interprets the speed of the car, and shift points. It's not absolutely critical that this is accurate, but tuning transmission parameters might be easier if the PCM's interpreted speed matches the actual speed.

Error Check: CCP(ERR 26), we talked about this but since i have a 5 minute memory. I should be un-checking this in the flags right?

You can leave this checked if you are going to hook up the canister purge valve. I've been thinking about the check valve. It still doesn't make sense to me to have a check valve between the canister and the tank. Is it possible that this is a rollover valve and not a check valve? If it is, make sure it is in the proper orientation.

The last folder, the "unknown/Research"...the "DGDTT".... i thought that was hilarious.

I'm glad there are still people with a sense of humor.

I appreciate you taking the time in editing my Bin with the good guidance given in the EEX.xdf , along with your knowledge! I will be trying to accomplish the other task i need to do that we talked about and then a few more questions on the Cam and headers and i think after that, the next step would be flashing the PCM with the new Bin data and see how everything looks.

As far as tuning the cam, I'm not the most qualified to give you tuning advice. When you get to that stage, you might want to start a new thread seeking guidance. You'll need to adjust your timing and VE tables. You'll want to dial in your MAF scaling as well, but that might not be too far off, depending on how similar the intake duct is compared to the Caprice. You may also need to adjust Acceleration Enrichment and idle speed.

[toyinhawaii]

I've never used EE Hack. I'm not sure I can help you with this one. Sometimes when I have problems with a program, running it in Administrator mode helps.

ok, i think you mentioned that also before about running it in admin mode on a different question i had.






This is another example of setting a parameter to it's max value to disable the function. By setting the 3-4 shift in kickdown mode, the trans will never upshift to 4th while in kickdown mode. With the shift kit, you may need to adjust shift speed and line pressure parameters. I'm don't have any experience here, but you'll probably need to experiment with this to get it to shift the way you want it to. If you can log the PCM's learned adaptive values, that may give you some feedback on what you need to adjust.

yea, i thought there was something funny about setting that @255mph. if this needs adjusted i would probably need to wait until i get some highway time on the car to see how she feels. and then look at your guidance.


Yes. Are you planning to run an electronic speedometer? In your previous post, you seemed to indicate that you are using a mechanical speedometer. If that is the case, adjusting this will not affect your spee mightdometer, but it will affect how the PCM interprets the speed of the car, and shift points. It's not absolutely critical that this is accurate, but tuning transmission parameters might be easier if the PCM's interpreted speed matches the actual speed.

no current plans to run an electronic /digital speedo. but yes i am running the OEM analog speedo. i just thought that being i modified the VSS>cable drive that there was some additional tuning that needed to be done.



You can leave this checked if you are going to hook up the canister purge valve. I've been thinking about the check valve. It still doesn't make sense to me to have a check valve between the canister and the tank. Is it possible that this is a rollover valve and not a check valve? If it is, make sure it is in the proper orientation.

no, i dont think so, it does have a flow arrow on it and i can hook up a hose going in and coming out. a rollover valve is usually located on or near the tank i think isnt it? this was originally all the way forward behind the DS headlight







As far as tuning the cam, I'm not the most qualified to give you tuning advice. When you get to that stage, you might want to start a new thread seeking guidance. You'll need to adjust your timing and VE tables. You'll want to dial in your MAF scaling as well, but that might not be too far off, depending on how similar the intake duct is compared to the Caprice. You may also need to adjust Acceleration Enrichment and idle speed.

ok, thank you. what little i know is like what you said about the timing and VE tables. and yes, i'll try to get all of my previous stuff in this thread taken care of first.

i got some blasted honey do stuff this afternoon to do but i'll try to start on the elky early tomorrow morning... before the chickens wake up lol

[toyinhawaii]

I'm in the same boat as far as never have tuned an LT1 before. Never crossed that bridge, yet but definitely want to learn. As far as ^^^post #8, you need to dial in your VE tables before using that tool to dial in PE (power enrichment). It's a little gray to me but you disable MAF to tune VE w MAP??? Is MAF tuning anything like LV8 in '165 TPI???

Can you elaborate...are you using a cable drive from the 4L60E to drive the stock speedo? The stock speedo can provide a 2k pulse signal but Idk if the LT1 PCM can use it. '7730 you can uncheck mag sensor. If anything the PCM is probably looking for the 40 tooth reluctor pulse per mile. Someone correct me if I have this all wrong. Oh are you using both in the same tailhousing???

Hi stew,
yea, would have to look into #8 a little more and look at that VE table your mentioning. i havent messed with anything other than an LT1.
yea, out of the 4L60E i replaced the VSS sensor with the Speedometer Gear Set(2nd url link) then using my OEM elky cable to the speedo. forward of the gear set (towards the engine about 3-4 inches i drilled and tapped a hole in the tranny housing for the OEM GM VSS (1st url link). and then just plugged in the VSS connector plug from the wiring harness. the OEM GM VSS then reads the pulses from the reluctor ring (3rd url link). you can go to https://jagsthatrun.com/pages/about-jtr and see how that conversion is done, i have that TPI/TBI book. driving the elky out on the street, it seems to shift fine and reads MPH like it should. but as i mentioned to Neukam , i am getting that VSS trouble code. see his response in post #10