Is it critical where I put the wideband sensor? I am not thrilled about putting more bungs in my headers. These headers don't provide as much free space as the Hookers and there is limited room. I'd like to go further down the line where I have more space.
What is the preferred wideband?
Thanks
the closer to the exhaust ports, the faster they heat up, but with a heated o2 that can matter less
if you put them too close to the engine or not far back enough from a collector or y or whatever, the exhaust pulses will be very turbulant there and the readings wont be as stable, also you run the risk of reading way more from one cylinder than another
if you put them too far back, the response time (or rather the delay between a firing event and an actual reading) goes up a lot and that's proportional to airflow too (so too far back and too low in RPM and your measurements can be delayed enough to be useless)
the areas you're probably tuning with a wideband are okay to be slow at low airflows, and warmup time probably isn't an issue, so i'd say go as far back as you want.
Please post some details about your build or link to where you did. What kind of exhaust, etc.Originally Posted by A95Y
I have mine in my x pipe (about 6 inches behind the transmission tailpiece). I've killed two LSU 4.9 sensors when ambient temperatures turned cold. I was afraid it was too far from the exhaust valves to stay hot enough. But that was using the Innovate LC-2 controller. Since I wasn't using their windows only logging software, I couldn't see any of the controller's error messages while driving (not that it would've mattered). My suspicion is that when it couldn't maintain the sensor's temperature it set itself in an error condition and then turned the heater circuit off (which consequently fouled the sensor beyond recovery).
I'm currently running this [link] and I'm very happy with it because it's open-source and I've been able to modify the firmware to make it do exactly what I want. However, I had to do all the wiring myself and the Arduino will need some kind of case (mines currently in a plastic bag under the passenger seat). And I won't know if my sensor killing demons are due to placement or some stupidity in the LC-2 heater logic until about November when ambients get into the 40s.
Any wideband in a Chevy is way better than one in a Ford! (i kid)
Seriously, the only major differences between the mainstream stuff you can get is the controller type - capabilities and features. Pretty much everything you can buy today is either going to use a Bosch LSU 4.2 or 4.9 sensor (or a chinese knock-off of one). You want a genuine Bosch sensor. As much as it seems I might be trashing Innovate, they sell a genuine Bosch 4.9 on Amazon for the best price I've found. If you're interested shoot me a PM and I'll send you a link.
There's a lot of information out there about exhaust system pressure, barometric pressure, temperature, etc. affecting accuracy, and it's true. What you have to consider is the amount of error these variables introduce. Some manufacturers tout that you must calibrate the sensor / controller setup in free air for it to be accurate. But OEMs have been using the LSU 4.9 sensor in both diesel and gas applications since around 2006, and there's no way their ECU can be performing a free air calibration without a light in the dash that says "remove oxygen sensor from exhaust system". That would go over like a fart in a space suit. So take what you read with a grain of salt, and do your own research because there is no single, easy answer.
Last edited by spfautsch; 07-18-2020 at 03:03 AM.
i would perform the free air calibration after a “minimum engine revolutions during DFCO active” constant threshold was past. DFCO is very effective at filling the exhaust with air.
Point taken. But I'm a show-me type, and will believe it when kur4o disassembles the code and confirms it. <please don't do this kur4o, it was rhetorical> I just don't see why Bosch would go to the trouble of laser etching a custom calibration resistor for every sensor if a free air calibration was significantly better, and easier.
On the other side of this, I'm not sure the overwhelming majority of today's drivers understand they can slow down without using their brakes. So what DFCO are you talking about? <sarcasm>
Pro tip: you can tell you've been driving on the interstate too much when you make a statement like above. When I got home tonight I was ready to go buy a pack of cigarettes, and I haven't smoked in 25 years. Small amount of rain = brake lights. I'm so done with people.
When I was first tuning, I had a long hill I was using for loading, and would DFCO my way down the hill to cool the chambers. The hill was so long that you could watch the coolant temperature actually drop 4C by the bottom of the hill.
Rain... Haha, makes the entire city of Huntsville's speed limit 35mph.
Send me a PM about widebands. I'm going to need two here in the next few months.
It's a 388 LT1 with LT4 heads. It's all forged, lightweight and ported. 52 mm TB (GM) The cam is Sig Erson Hyd. roller .548 lift 234I 246E 112 LSA with 1.5 rockers, I have 1.6 Built 4L60E with a 3000 converter. Headers are 1 5/8 to 1 3/4 Stahl longtube headers. They were tuned until I modified #8 to accommodate A/C. That tube is a little shorter because of the turn down. Headers go straight into 3" exhaust pipes > x-pipe muffler (the x-pipe is in the muffler) > to racing bullets > tailpipes that dump behind the tires. It's a hokey exhaust I made. I didn't want any restrictions.Please post some details about your build or link to where you did. What kind of exhaust, etc
Edit: I have an Innovate LC-1 I tried using about 5 or 10 years ago. I couldn't get it to read consistently. I didn't like it. Consistently having to do "free air calibration" was annoying also.
Has anyone had good results with the LC-1. I can wire it back up.
Last edited by A95Y; 07-18-2020 at 08:26 PM.
I'm a smalltown dweller. We don't slow down when it rains unless the water covers the road. We don't slow down for vehicles on the side of the road. We don't slow down for anything you can use the steering wheel to avoid. I've been commuting 100+ miles a day to the St Louis area for going on 24 years. I positively hate "city drivers".
I'm going to go out on a limb and risk annoying the mods - here's the Innovate replacement sensor, PN 3888. I've deleted the product manual for my LC-2 but they also show a part # for a LSU 4.2 sensor. This particular one is the cheapest I've found that's the genuine Bosch article. Almost everything else you find on Amazon / eBay is a knock-off.
My stomping groundsI've been commuting 100+ miles a day to the St Louis area for going on 24 years. I positively hate "city drivers".
I surfed this up. SLC Free 2https://www.14point7.com/products/si...troller-free-2I'm going to go out on a limb and risk annoying the mods - here's the Innovate replacement sensor, PN 3888. I've deleted the product manual for my LC-2 but they also show a part # for a LSU 4.2 sensor. This particular one is the cheapest I've found that's the genuine Bosch article. Almost everything else you find on Amazon / eBay is a knock-off.
What do you think about it? Comes with a LSU 4.9 and is pretty cheap. The site states it's "mostly assembled".
The LC-1 won't take a LSU 4.9 as for what I have read.
Lots of good info above, and I'll be definitely looking into that Arduino sheild, since I enjoy coding and using Arduinos (most of the time lol).
I do use 14point7 products a lot, they seem to be the least expensive on the market for the most features and reliability.
I have used Innovate in the past, and while I never had any major problems, however I did go through a few sensors in the few years I owned them, and have only MAYBE had to replace one sensor since, in probably close to a decade of using other brands. I also use an AEM in my one car and seems to be fine.
I avoid Innovate and PLX.
My go to right now is the 14point7 line of products. AEM seems to work, but is expensive in comparison, but they have different style of products too.
The man who says something is impossible, is usually interrupted by the man doing it.
Second 14 Pint 7- I think he's in Canada too.
He is, I've met with Alan a couple times now.
The man who says something is impossible, is usually interrupted by the man doing it.
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