9278 ECM, BDLD BCC How can you tell if it's stock?

[PlayingWithTBI]

I'm trying to help a long distance friend who has a spare ECM for his 93 Camaro race car. It looks stock but, can't someone erase and burn these chips to keep them looking that way? Does anyone have the BDLD .bin file?

[NomakeWan]

That silver sticker that says "BDLD" on it covers up a window. With that window exposed, the chip can be exposed to UV light, which will erase it. Once erased it can be overwritten.

If your friend has access to a chip burner (like the TL866) and can buy from an electronics supplier like Digikey or Mouser, he can make an adapter that will let him plug the memcal into the chip burner and read its data. Sadly the BLDL BIN isn't listed on this website, but he could try comparing against one of the other F-body BINs to see.

https://xtronics.com/wiki/EFI_ECU_FAQ.html

[dave w]

Looking at the pictures, it's most likely stock. The original BDLD label is still on the chip. To erase the chip, the BDLD label would have to be removed, allowing UV light to erase the chip. It's possible to remove the BDLD label and then but the label back on, but very unlikely without any tell / tell signs the label has been removed.

Attached is a 93 LT1 BDLD.bin file as read from an original chip.

dave w

[PlayingWithTBI]

Thanks guys, that's what I thought about erasing and burning. FWIU I can read the chip with my Moates Burn2. With your copy of the stock bin, Dave, I can run a comparison if we think we need to go any further into the investigation. This .bin seems to have a higher rev limiter (6K) than the one he's using now so, he'd like to use this one as long as it's legal.

[PlayingWithTBI]

Yep, it does have a higher rev limit than his other stock .bin (not sure which one that is). If we wanted to "tune" this ECM what are our options, solder in a ZIF socket, like @Dave w did with the 7747, Ostrich2.0, APU1? Any others, what's the easiest or best way to go? Thanks again!

[NomakeWan]

Ostrich would be the best for doing the dyno tuning part. Then once you have everything the way you want it, burn it to a chip and put the chip into a memcal adapter. While the Ostrich can be used in-place, I wouldn't recommend using it like that due to the unpleasant environment inside the engine bay. For ECUs that live in the cabin that's one thing, but ours live in our engine bays, so it doesn't work nearly as well.

[1project2many]

There is a tool on this site ( Bithoist ) that is able to check many (but not all) GM ObdI calibrations to see if they are stock. Additionally, many hex editors or file compare programs can do a "bit by bit" comparison to determine whether or not two files are exactly the same.