Tunerpro RT $4F connection problems

[duecepipes22]

I also just confirmed that my fuel pressure is 13-13.5 (its a 100 psi gauge). It does have a very slight dip when I hit the gas, maybe 1 psi, otherwise its steady.

[duecepipes22]

I did a little fuel adding of my own since that last log and relogged, things looked better but could still use work. I'll do a little more work on the fuel and then data log and upload the bin and log to see if I'm doing anything right. Also, today while I was driving on the freeway (I wasn't data logging at the time) but my CEL came on, EGR fail. I turned my EGR enable temp all the way up in the bin but apparently it still tried to enable it. Any thoughts on that one?

[EagleMark]

That was probably the EGR test, it failed, turning off EGR won't help, have to look in bitmaskes and see if the bit to turn off the test is in the XDF. Or could fix EGR, it's not really a bad thing...

EDIT: It is in there "Option Word 1 - Bit 7 - EGR" uncheck that for now.

[duecepipes22]

Thanks! I got the EGR test taken care of. The only reason why I pulled it off was because I couldn't get the gasket on it to seal because of what looks like rust pitting, so I had a constant vacuum leak there. Its not necessarily that I don't want it, but my dad has a CNC so it didn't take much to make a block off plate and call it good.

I made some of my own adjustments to your last tune and did a data log. Here is the bin and log, mind taking a look? It seemed to run lean at first but by the end of the run, the numbers looked pretty good. Is that the computer making some adjustments of its own since I reset the computer before plugging in the chip?

You said I had room for more timing advance, how much more do you think I can add? My goal is to not make myself a 355ci gernade!

Sorry, I just realized I never included the files! I also just read about avoiding PE or disabling it, which I never made an effort to do, is that going to screw up my data pretty bad?

[duecepipes22]

Today I did a new data log with that same bin but I tried to stay really light on the throttle (but still hit the higher RPMs) keeping the TPS% down and I noticed with my log that my 2000 RPM BLM's across the board were all lower. (about 120) whereas in the last log when I was getting on it more, they were around 130. Does this have to do with The AE/PE settings and the added timing leaning out my BLM's? And when adjusting my fuel table, should I used the numbers from today that say that I'm running rich? I'll post today's log in case you want to see what I'm talking about. My log from the other day is above. Thanks!

Nevermind the sudden richness of that area, I just noticed while watching the log that the BLMs started to drop as soon as it threw an EGR code.

[EagleMark]

Sorry I missed your last post.

Couple things happening I see, some may be explanable? There's no ALDL data to tell when your in PE in this mask and all paremeters I see in bin file say it's still on, so got to turn off PE to get good BLM data. Second I think this is an Auto bin and from looking at your log I'm guessing you've got a manual trans? If so start with another manual bin and compare/copy over your fuel and spark and whatever. There's just way to many differences between auto and manual bin to even start and try, mostly IAC logic but also decel or DFCO etc... again throwing BLM data off.

Reason I say throwing BLM data off is your log started warmed up which is good, but BLM at idle were 136/lean, then later they were 106/rich? You may have some drippy injectors? Somethings wrong to get that big a change in warmed up data?

You went way rich before the EGR error code, and at that speed it looks like the bit 7 EGR test, but your last bin I saw it was turned off, so..... went looking at ALDL file and no bit to tell if EGR came on either? Got to disable the EGR, or more to get good BLM data.

[duecepipes22]

I'll get started with a manual bin right away.

I've had the EGR shut off on all of the bins, including the "Option Word 1 - Bit 7 - EGR" in the last couple so I don't know why it continues to cause problems.

I think something else is wrong because I made a few adjustments to my upper RPM range after doing that last log and I just logged again and everything was rich again! When I started the log it looked good but rapidly turned rich. Like you had mentioned, I'll check my injectors, but it seemed to be running fine so I don't know what to think! I also had some knock in the last log that I posted, which I hadn't been having. I'm starting to see some of the frustrations that accompany this!

[duecepipes22]

I think my problem may be that a sprung another vacuum leak! I just retorqued my throttle body and EGR block off bolts and they both seemed to be pretty loose. Unfortunately I think the idle was still changing with the lighter fluid spray... here we go again, but I'm assuming I found out why my BLMs were off again. Would that make sense?

[EagleMark]

Yup! I knew something was wrong...

I thought I was daring with short bursts of starting fluid? Your actually useing liquid? I dono bout that... be safe please! Really the safest way I know is a propane tourch, sometimes it needs to be on high and close up with wind from fans. Safety glasses, gloves and long arm, really reach in to it and keep your face away!!! Please be safe...

[duecepipes22]

I've been using spray can starter fluid. I figured, besides blowing up my face, truck, garage and half the neighborhood, whats the worst that could happen?.... I'll reconsider doing it that way. I'm thinking about just calling around to see if any local shops do smoke testing and what they charge for it.

I grabbed the "AWSY 92 C-K-P Truck 5.7TBI 5 speed" bin you have on the $4f thread and inserted my fuel and spark tables as well as what I have been doing to delete my EGR. Would there be anything else to change or do you think it looks good? I couldn't see any other differences, but then again, I wouldn't know what to look for.

[EagleMark]

Very short little bursts of starter fluid with your hand fully extended, that way if it finds ignition it's a very short little explosion!

It's still doing the same thing? Warmed up, start log, little lean 134ish, then get's almost perfect then ends up pig rich? I've never seen that before? Maybe spark going away?

[duecepipes22]

I haven't relogged with this bin since fixing the vacuum leak (if it is fixed, fingers crossed). I feel pretty confident that it will be better once its fixed, but then again, I'm just a newbie. Like I've said, I wouldn't be surprised if the spark was failing considering all the miles, but I would think that it would run a little rough if that was the case. It still accelerates/drives perfectly smooth.

[duecepipes22]

I just got done doing a data log after attempting to fix the vacuum leak. It seems to be doing better and according to the BLMs it looks like its running less rich again. However, while I was cruising at about 2000 RPMs my EGR tried to kick on again and instantly the BLMs went from 128 to 109. I cant figure out how to get that thing to stay off!! I've got the EGR enable temp all the way up, the EGR on and off TPS% are both at 0 and the Option Word Bit 7 is off.

I guess at this point I'm also confused as to why my BLMs were back to perfect at 2000 RPM and above (prior to EGR trying to kick in) yet below 2000 it didn't lean out as much after fixing the vacuum leak.

[EagleMark]

Yeah that was doing way better! Why does the EGR keep coming on? Post up your bin and we can take a look, for some reason it is not disabled, we may have to 0 out tables or?

Below 2000 RPM is much higher vacuum, so you had a much higher vacuum leak. At least they are consistent now and tunable.

[duecepipes22]

I haven't 0 out tables yet because I didn't want to make something go really bad if it tried to kick on and I obviously don't know what I'm doing.

As far as vacuum leaks go, I obviously made it better, but the numbers didn't come back to near perfect like they were so I think I still have one. Unless there was a little leak when we started with the tuning and now that its fixed, the numbers are off? I hate to say it, but I already noticed some wiggle in the throttle shaft and I just had new bushings put in about 2 weeks ago!!! Luckily the guy said he would try putting some harder bushings in for free. Obviously that could be another source of leak.

I noticed a couple of other things today while messing around with it that I'm not so sure about. My volt meter twitches as the same rate as my turn signal whenever I turn the signal on, maybe its always done it, but I just noticed it now. The other thing is that I pulled the PCV valve and breather to try to feel for vacuum (I know I don't want to have that) but what I noticed was that if left my hands over the holes for a few seconds, when I pulled my hands off, there was a quick little rush of air. It did this right after starting it for the first time today but I'm not sure if its just doing that because the PCV valve wasn't on there to pull the air out of one side?