Tunerpro RT $4F connection problems

[duecepipes22]

Yikes... I'll stick to the basics for now. After a long wait, here is my .bin Its the "custom tune" I paid big money for a while back but it looks a lot like some of the other bins I found on here.

[duecepipes22]

Do you know how to delete the EGR from the tune? I have a $4F mask as the title says and I read to just set the parameters so that it doesn't kick in, but it looks on my bin like there is more to it than that. After a second attempt to seal up my EGR gasket leak and failing, I decided to put a block off plate on it and delete it from the tune.

[EagleMark]

That bin you posted has an exact Main VE table as a stock bin, so not sure what you paid big bucks for?

If your seeing all 0 in Main VE something is way wrong, there was a bad $4F XDF floating around awhile ago so check to see you have the one in the $4F info thread I am using and it is working fine.

$4F has one Main Fuel VE table. $42 has a VE1 and VE2 adder, the reason there is three in the XDF is one is corrected to hack, one is what everyone has been using for years, look at the Read Me for details. Hack was reversed MAP RPM when originally done but still works correctly when tuning luckily! So theres 2 VE1, one correct, one reversed, if you make a change in one it is changed in other. No biggy...

To disable EGR in $4F look for "EGR - Enable Temp" in scalers and raise temp to max and it should never come on. I usually look for other EGR tables for fuel or spark corrections when EGR is enabled and zero them as fail safe.

I've never used a burn 2 but like all chip burners once you get offsets set correctly for bin size to chip it'll work fine till you use a different size bin or chip.

[duecepipes22]

I wasn't expecting to hear from you yet! Everything going ok?

I guess I'm not too surprised that its the same, I'm starting to think that the guy just bumped the timing a little and called it good. I compared my fuel table with a stock one on Tunerpro and it looks like there are 5 cells that are different, but thats it.

I've got the burner figured out now, got my EGR deleted and I bumped my idle up a little... its still rough. I'm having new bushings put in my throttle body on Tuesday so hopefully after that I'll have it running right so that with your help (hopefully) I'll be able to get my fuel table figured out?

[EagleMark]

All is better then well thank you!

I just compared VE to first bin I had in $4F and it was identical.

There are some tricks for better idle, but normally not needed on a stock motor without mechanical issues, needed for cams and such but we can learn!

What is your IAC count at idle? What is your TPS voltage at idle. When I say idle I mean fully warmed up and driven. When ever we talk about data it is always warmed up and driven, this is a major flaw many people make when tuning. Everything is an adjustment from here. I have found totally warmed up is not enough, driving 1 mile puts it in the zone! OK maybe 1/2 mile or at least a blast around the block on warm day. I beleive this is do to wet intake and warming up...

[duecepipes22]

So does that mean that my VE table is crap for a motor that has been bored, different cam, headers, very free flowing exhaust, all the TB mods... basically everything has been changed except intake and heads? In other words, I got taken?

So do you think I need to accommodate for having a cam, even if its pretty mild? My IAC count is between 20 and 30, TPS voltage is .57 (I elongated the wholes to make it adjustable) In my bin, it says "IAC-%TPS for Closed Throttle: 1.20%" should I change that to 0% since I have it adjusted to that? I always make sure its warmed up and locked into closed loop before checking anything or data logging.

I dropped off my throttle body and a carb shop today to have new bushings put in and his response was "yeah, that thing is pretty bad" so I'm hoping my idle problems were stemming from a vacuum leak through the bushings.

[RobertISaar]

yeah, with all those mods, the VE table should require some siginificant changes....

[duecepipes22]

yeah, with all those mods, the VE table should require some siginificant changes....

OUCH, I was taken! Looks like I paid almost $400 for a chip adapter, EEPROM and a little timing advance!

[EagleMark]

So does that mean that my VE table is crap for a motor that has been bored, different cam, headers, very free flowing exhaust, all the TB mods... basically everything has been changed except intake and heads? In other words, I got taken?

So do you think I need to accommodate for having a cam, even if its pretty mild? My IAC count is between 20 and 30, TPS voltage is .57 (I elongated the wholes to make it adjustable) In my bin, it says "IAC-%TPS for Closed Throttle: 1.20%" should I change that to 0% since I have it adjusted to that? I always make sure its warmed up and locked into closed loop before checking anything or data logging.

I dropped off my throttle body and a carb shop today to have new bushings put in and his response was "yeah, that thing is pretty bad" so I'm hoping my idle problems were stemming from a vacuum leak through the bushings.

With 20 to 30 counts there is not a significant vacuum leak. 0 would be significant.

TPS% is just a calculation in the data of this bin, not actual so don't worry about 1.2%, that is about correct for .57 volts

yeah, with all those mods, the VE table should require some siginificant changes....

Yup...

OUCH, I was taken! Looks like I paid almost $400 for a chip adapter, EEPROM and a little timing advance!

Ouch!

[duecepipes22]

Could my erratic idle be an ignition problem then? My distributor, ignition module and coil all have 263,000 miles on them. It seems to run fine past idle and it idles smooth in closed loop and when the wire from the ecm to the distributor is unplugged. I'm crossing my fingers that there is a vacuum leak but I think I need to prepared in case the TB isn't the solution.

[EagleMark]

Very well could be? I'll bet that pickup coil and connections are solid green goop, check shaft to see if loose.

[duecepipes22]

The terminal on the coil was green when I replaced the plug wires about 3 weeks ago... I'm going to check it out today and hopefully test it, I'll check the dizzy while I'm at it. I'm supposed to get my TB back today so I want to do some data logging... I looked at my BLM history table and it looks like it matches up with my BIN. It has all the same numbers for my map and RPMs so it should work, right?

[EagleMark]

Yup, if the BLM table looks exactly like the VE fuel table it will be correct for adjusting each cell.

I just remembered there is another issue with old small cap distributors! Look directly down at reluctor and see if it is cracked, the black part which has the metal points coming off it. Also see if this is rusty and touching terminals.

[duecepipes22]

Thanks Mark, I'll check on those things on Monday, I'm heading out of town for the weekend.

I got my throttle body back today and sure enough, it didn't help... still have a rough idle, although I'm not so sure that my TB/spacer are sealing up good enough because if I shoot some carb cleaner at them, it still affects the idle a little.

Anyway, I did another data log tonight with the throttle body fixed to see if it changed anything. Is there any chance that since I'm running pig rich at idle, that could cause the idle to hunt around trying to correct itself?

[EagleMark]

Yeah, it'll wet everything and throw off the O2 as well, but unless your shooting carb cleaner near the IAC intake port of TBI you got a vacuum leak! What works better but is dangerous so be carful and do at own risk if you feel safe is starting fluid. Not near any sparks or altenater, short little bursts long arm away well make the motor rev, then you know for sure where the searching idle is. Or propane tourch, on high not lit of course... is safer. I've never been hurt with short bursts of starting fluid, but it finds leaks fast! No doubt when motor revs! Short burst, Vrrooom...