RockAuto has reman Delco for $128. New Delphi for $175 and I have used the UNITED IGNITION WIRE for $102. but never checked EST module for timing... there's also MSD for about $175. I don't like A1 Cardone parts even though made in USA they only try to compete with China standards.
I also asked pmkls1 in another thread as he is a GM tech and seems to know how to get the GM replacement.
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
pmkls1 answered and gave the part number for GM Performance part, real deal no crap. Since I'm looking for one I searched around and best price I found was
http://sdparts.com/details/gm-performance-parts/1103952
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
Thats awesome, its even cheaper than on Summit! Will that fit my '91 though? For some reason the delco on summit only fits '92 and newer and the ones on rock auto that you found didn't show up when I searched my '91. Thats an awesome deal though compared to what I was looking at! I just hope it fits mine.
Thanks! I think I found one of my new favorite websites!Originally Posted by historystamp
Yes! I think the reason 1992 had a differant part number then earlier was the EST number was differant, but actually it was used as a replacement for earlier ones, it's a better timing EST. Distributor otherwise is identical.
The EST is the biggest factor of new copies of distributor, they are actually simple to build/copy, but some aftermarket EST are off by many degrees timing and not reliable! Some cheap eBay distributors have bent shafts and no bushings!!!
Look how long yours lasted? Want another like that or one that may leave you stranded any minute?
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
I have no doubt that I would rather go with a good one. I refuse to even buy one from napa, autozone or oreillys. So if I understand what you are saying, the '92 and newer ones will still work perfect for mine?
The delphi one on summit goes for $194. Does pmkls1 think the GM performance part one would be better than a delphi?
By the way, you guys on here rock and have helped me out way more than I could have imagined!
I also just noticed that the GMPP distributor says it has a steel gear for roller lifter cams. I don't have roller cam, will that still work?
Last edited by duecepipes22; 07-03-2012 at 02:39 AM.
Pretty much all yes! The only difference is the EST, which looks identical, but old one pulled three degrees timing after 3000 RPM, GM used the new one when ever needed and never looked back. IIRC number on new one is 048 and old one 069, if you didn't know you'd never notice, by this point in time it may even have a new number. Don't worry about it.
The cam gear for roller cam is melonized and excellent replacement for flat lifter cam, this was just discussed in another thead. Better choice. for all.
I wonder if the Delphi and GM performance are the same thing? Same part number?
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
Great to hear all that! Sorry you had to pretty much retype the same stuff for me to understand. Summit has both the delphi and the GMPP, listed as separate parts. The delphi is part number cz20001 and the GMPP is 110-3952. Summit has the delphi for $184 and the GMPP for $283, so the sdparts.com GMPP is a great deal! I wonder if the GMPP is really that much better.
On a side note, I asked a jack wagon at summit yesterday about the delphi distributor and he said "nope" no way it will work, but he said the GMPP will work. Shows how great of help they are!
Last edited by duecepipes22; 07-03-2012 at 06:36 AM.
Well I ordered the GMPP distributor and got it installed... truck won't run! It started at first but chugged a lot so I tried rotating the distributor and now it won't run at all and twice I had a flame shoot out of my throttle body! I think its safe to assume that my timing is way off, but is it safe to unplug my timing wire right now to try to get the timing back down to 0 or could it be so far off that I could blow the thing if the timing is too far advanced?
I don't know if I managed to put the distributor in one tooth off or what???
Nevermind that! I got it running. I think the problem was that it was so flooded from the timing being off. I unplugged the injectors, turned it over for a bit, plugged them in, adjusted the timing a bit and it fired up!
Something I noticed though was that while I had it running with the timing wire unplugged and timing at 0* there would be an occasional flicker in the timing and a quick sputter of the engine... its a brand new dizzy, could it be the coil cutting out? Also, is about 22* at idle about normal?
22 is OK at idle, something else id wrong if you see a flicker in timing light and stitter of engine?
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
Do you think it would be the coil? Theres nothing else along the way with the ignition and it does it with the wire unplugged so its not like it can be anything with the computer or sensors, right?
It sits perfectly still at 0* and every 5-10 seconds it will flicker about 10 degrees.
That's really hard to answer virtually... But from what your saying I'd be looking at ignition still. Stuff like that is hard to do in person even with an osilscope...
1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
-= =-
I kinda figured that would be the case but it was worth a shot.
I had a different suspicion that maybe my coil or another wire was occasionally arching with plug wire 1, causing the timing to jump momentarily on that cylinder causing a misfire/sputter? They are new wires but the guy at Oreilly talked me into buying the BWD when I wanted the delcos.
I just got done doing a data log again and the truck idled the smoothest its idled in a long time! I had no idle change when spraying for vacuum leaks either! What still confuses me is that the BLMs started out pretty good and then went rich again. My question is, how good is the computer at actually adjusting the fuel? My BLMs are low so obviously its reading rich and trying to lean it out and I pulled all my plugs today and some looked maybe a little too white and some looked perfect. Is that still a sign of a vacuum leak or is the computer actually able to adjust fuel that much to get it to run right? Heres the log if you are interested in having a look.
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