LS-Droid use questions

[KC5UEA]

Hi all,

Since no one else has mentioned it, IF using LS-Droid or PCMHammer for flashing, there is some issues currently with the MX+ device that do not seem to exist in the others.
If you are mainly needing the Device for flashing the 0411, then the LX is a good choice.
It only supports the J1850 protocol whereas the MX supports the CAN protocol, but at the moment there is no need to buy the MX if you do not have a CAN-Based vehicle.

Mike

[woody80z28]

Hi all,

Since no one else has mentioned it, IF using LS-Droid or PCMHammer for flashing, there is some issues currently with the MX+ device that do not seem to exist in the others.
If you are mainly needing the Device for flashing the 0411, then the LX is a good choice.
It only supports the J1850 protocol whereas the MX supports the CAN protocol, but at the moment there is no need to buy the MX if you do not have a CAN-Based vehicle.

Mike

Thanks. That's the exact kind of info I'm looking for. I'll order an LX now.

[kur4o]

Ls droid is designed to overcome any possible reasons for bricking pcms.
It is relatively safe to flash in car. You can recover in almost all circumstances including mid flash interupts and continue later on with new phone and cable.

In case something goes wrong, make sure the battery power is not removed and is good and solid untill the flash is completed.

Thip chips needs solid 12v to get programmed, If the voltage goes lower it is likely to throw errors.

[woody80z28]

Ok, I read the PCM in-truck by pulling a bunch of fuses as suggested. Turns out it is 8322 OS - the app said so and the XDF read it fine.

Interesting finds in the tune, too. It has less timing than I would have thought. Only 15 degrees max at wide open with an additional 2 degrees at lower AFR. But the PE looks to be delayed 60 seconds! And only at 90+% throttle. That seems crazy to me. I'm thinking like 22-24 degrees total timing at WOT and a 1sec PE delay at70-75% throttle would make more sense.

Stock BIN attached.

[kur4o]

Some truck bins have even lower SA and the PE mode is disabled. They run 14.7 at full throttle and 5-10 * advance based on load. I don`t know if it is for emissions or cleaner combustion but you can not feel a lack of power with these settings. You cannot feel an extra power either, when you mess with the settings so tune responsibly.
The newer engines are highly efficient and don`t need extra SA to make decent power.

[woody80z28]

Interesting information there about not being able to feel a difference in power. I did a bunch of searching online about tuning HD gas trucks and most 6.0 LS guys run about 26-28 degrees and 8.1 guys run 20-24, but they also zero out the IAT and burst knock modifiers that bring the actual logged spark down to about 10. (Also enabling PE).

I know with my Vortec-headed SBC in my old truck, 28 degrees made good power, but that's as far as I wanted to push it. I had 30 degrees in my 10.5:1 Vortec-headed SBC Camaro and it was great. From what I've read that's 6-8 degrees less than older open chamber SBC heads.
The guy who sold me the heads and cam for my 3.4 V6 said 26-28 is where they make the best power. They are all a long way from 10-15 degrees...

Here's the truck!