Swapped heads cam exhaust - how much power

[PJG1173]

did you set the calc in the ADX for timing to match what the base timing is set for in the bin? that would account for the data logs not reflecting properly.
I found when I did my vortec head and cam swap I needed a considerable amount of timing. I ended up modifying a lt1 cop car timing table. I just polished of WOT on the dyno last week. Its a nice smooth curve up to 4700 rpm where Kpa starts to drop and the dyno showed serging up to 5800. with mine I zero'd out my PE timing and just use the open throttle SA table. at 2400 WOT I'm at 29* and 33* up to 6000.

I was quite disappointed with my dyno results considering how much I have put in this truck, but I'm happy with the performance of the truck.

[jameslleary]

I am wondering if it is his intake manifold that is keeping his giddy-up in the higher RPM ranges.
If you have the manifold I am thinking of, with the large runners, your not going to do much under 1800 or so rpm, maybe even 2000. For intakes, I kinda think the same way as exhaust.....if the primaries are too big(diameter) you are going to loose flow velocity. Same with large intakes, especially when the fuel delivery device, carb or TB, that relies on the manifold surfaces to mix the air/fuel charge. The only way you would not have these issues with a single plain, is if you have the MPFI version, and use it as a dry manifold set up. I know that this is a long shot, but maybe see if you can find a vortec dual plain to try before you really start banging your head because the results are not what you expected.
I you cant find one, you will have to cange your gears to get the results you are after.
Just my $0.02 from experience.

[pima.1971]

My base timing is in the bin and distributor at 8*.
I modeled this swap after "fast305" reading his posts for a longtime. From the heads, similar cam, and exact intake manifold. He has touched base on a post in FSC. The expectation was that there was no way 61lb injectors at 13.5 psi could feed this thing for any meaningful performance above a certain throttle position. But that is not what happened. The injector duty cycle never got close to maxing out. The needed fuel pressure was expected to be closer to 20 psi for wot. So something is off, but not sure what.
Can my timing tables and VE tables be adjusted so performance will jump and thus require my injectors to push more fuel. I mean to go from a 50% duty cycle to 80%? It's not like my afr is really lean.
I have zero'd out the spark biases, coolant temp bias, egr bias, and pe spark. I did leave the maximun knock retard at 6* for safety.

[PJG1173]

are you sure you have 61# injectors? I took the injectors out of a 91 z71 parts truck my buddy bought and found they were 68# cop car injectors. the PO never messed with them so they some how came factory like that.

[pima.1971]

are you sure you have 61# injectors? I took the injectors out of a 91 z71 parts truck my buddy bought and found they were 68# cop car injectors. the PO never messed with them so they some how came factory like that.

orange/orange insulated posts. Those are 61lb hr right?

Let me go double check.

Their orange and orange.

[jameslleary]

I think most injectors have those orange posts. you want to look for paint marks on the center injector post, where the connector locks on. yellow and brown paint marks would be the 65pph, Orange and black would be the stock 350 injectors, and green and white are for the 305. unless you get an external regulator, you will have to get the regulator, or at least the spring from a 94-95 454 TBI which ran 46pph injectors @30psi, which made them 74pph.

[EagleMark]

Paint marks are all but gone nowadays, the post color does not indicate anything.

Grab the number and look, there's lot's of differant information on how much they flow, we started a list and supposed to be correct for 13 PSI
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...d-part-numbers

Orange Black 61pph
Yellow Brown 65pph

You have plenty of fuel right now and need to adjust lower VE down. But installing the timing table that went with the motor Fast355 built would be first for big improvements. With 8 degree distributor setting figured into the ADX file you are running about 12 degrees advance WOT. And cruise about 18 so yes it would be low on power.

Now you have to be very careful with spark advance! You disabled a lot, did not account for 8 degree base setting. Have you checked at timing marks with light to match what ADX is showing?

[PJG1173]

I looked at your log file and ran it through the $0D ADX I'm using then exported it to a database that sorts the data. on thing I noticed is that your wb is reading differntly than what your BLM's are reading. so I would assume that your pcm is correcting for problems with your VE table and the WB is confirming that its making the proper corrections. attached is a report I threw together showing diffent views of your data. to include duty cycle info.

[pima.1971]

did you set the calc in the ADX for timing to match what the base timing is set for in the bin? that would account for the data logs not reflecting properly.
I found when I did my vortec head and cam swap I needed a considerable amount of timing. I ended up modifying a lt1 cop car timing table. I just polished of WOT on the dyno last week. Its a nice smooth curve up to 4700 rpm where Kpa starts to drop and the dyno showed serging up to 5800. with mine I zero'd out my PE timing and just use the open throttle SA table. at 2400 WOT I'm at 29* and 33* up to 6000.

I was quite disappointed with my dyno results considering how much I have put in this truck, but I'm happy with the performance of the truck.

It always seems a dyno disappoints. We read everything and calculate Flywheel hp. Then do a dyno run and get RWHP. Even when you add back for drive train loss, its never the same. It always feels like your trying to inflate your numbers. Sounds stupid, but that's the way it makes me feel.

[jameslleary]

Edit: do you have an AFPR?

[pima.1971]

Edit: do you have an AFPR?

Yes but i do need a different spring as this one is just about maxed out. But it is adjustable, but only goes lower right now.