what am i doing wrong?

[CapriceLT1]

Woohoo!! Alright, i uninstalled and reinstalled the reddevil software, set my comport etc and went onto Tuner-pro RT and DA connected everything was ok and the dashes are reading but they are just going left to right like crazy. I have gotten this far, where do i go from here? I will try each adx file i have twice as soon as i get home from work (7:30ish) and will let you guys know if they read correctly. But it connected and showed me the htz and everything so hopefully trying them again and again i might get it right

[EagleMark]

Woo Hoo!

Now if you do the tests for each ADX as I described we will get one dialed in for the Caprice.

[CapriceLT1]

I jumped up in my seat when it went through lol

[CapriceLT1]

While ignition on its at 50 rpm, no big deal. everthing else looks ok, what do you guys think? and how do i add the WOT_BLM blocker and erase trouble codes, id like to get into tuning now

[EagleMark]

What ADX file? Did it connect first time? Engine has to be running before connection on these.

Right now you have a code 43 and 76 set so you need to clear codes! This may also be the reason you are in Cat Converter Overtemp mode the whole time, maybe not. But in this mode BLM is locked to 128, BLM enable is off and your pig rich, have to find out why before you can tune anything.

[CapriceLT1]

What ADX file? Did it connect first time? Engine has to be running before connection on these.

Right now you have a code 43 and 76 set so you need to clear codes! This may also be the reason you are in Cat Converter Overtemp mode the whole time, maybe not. But in this mode BLM is locked to 128, BLM enable is off and your pig rich, have to find out why before you can tune anything.

I have a new FPR i am going to put on. I dont know what data to compare it too to look at whats wrong but the code 43 is the new knock sensors, connectors and rewiring to PCM. It wont go off. I think i can check my knock sensor voltage with this TunerPro RT right? I think I have 0 knocks on both so im going to check the pcm continuity tonight and change the fuel pressure regulator. FPR and 0 on both knock sensors could explain why im rich. any thing else look wrong?

[EagleMark]

What ADX file? Did it connect first time? Engine has to be running before connection on these.

Pull batterey cable for a minute to clear codes.

I'd like to show you how in the ADX but after asking several times I don't know what file you used or how it worked so don't know how it will respond. I did all this work to get an ADX file dialed in for the Caprice guys, now no feedback and dead in water...

[CapriceLT1]

Thats the file I am using, sorry for not posting the adx file....

[CapriceLT1]

Pull batterey cable for a minute to clear codes.

I'd like to show you how in the ADX but after asking several times I don't know what file you used or how it worked so don't know how it will respond. I did all this work to get an ADX file dialed in for the Caprice guys, now no feedback and dead in water...

Im sorry, If you would like i would be your Caprice ADX guinea pig if not i understand because its alot of work. At some point in this i stepped on the gas to burn rubber, i used the a/c on max and regular, turned on heat and window defroster....pretty much anything i know would show up on the log. I know the a/c doesnt matter but maybe its because its overcharged? Im watching the file and i do notice my knock retard is going off but im not sure what/when it is. I disconnected the battery and will look up codes with the program ( i think i can).

Im doing my FPR tonigh before driving about 30 miles to my gf's, that should be a lot of data for us to find out whats wrong lol. And If you want ill record everything and give you feedback to better this adx file ONLY if your up to it. Just let me know.

Again, I can't thank you guys enough. Now i just need to fix the codes

.

[EagleMark]

Thats the file I am using, sorry for not posting the adx file....

After you start the car this connects first shot? If it hooks up first shot then the file does not need any improving or checking, it's all done. But you can customize anyway you like. I know everything works in the file, the problem is I only have a 94 Buick Roadmaster LT1 and the file connects with it. But other same years cars have different modules and need different connection commands. This is the only area I would like you to be a Guinea pig for! After that I'll help best I can to teach you to use it.

Right now you have a code 43 and 76 set so you need to clear codes! This may also be the reason you are in Cat Converter Overtemp mode the whole time, maybe not. But in this mode BLM is locked to 128, BLM enable is off and your pig rich, have to find out why before you can tune anything.

Like I said earlier, these need to be fixed first! Data is no good with PCM in Cat Converter Overtemp mode! Nothing is correct for tuning data! It's pig rich! It's not running right!

Clear codes and run car and see if they come back? If they do they have to be fixed. Can't see correct data and car is not running right like this.

Have you checked fuel pressure? What is it? Why do you need a new FPR?

To clear codes without disconnecting batterey with TunerPro go to Acqusisiton, Edit definition and look for Monitor, it is set to engine connection, change it to Clear data, then start car and connect, look at your Item list under error codes and they will be going crazy. Dis connect, turn car off, restart car and all codes are clear. We will see what comes back?

To monitor engine again have to go back and put Engine data back in monitor.

[CapriceLT1]

On the tutorial that was posted earlier i saw the guy in the vid decrease CAT temp? so that it would perform better or so the codes wouldnt show up. But battery is out, if codes come back on I will use tunerpro to clear codes, I noticed I am getting knock on the monitor but it spiked almost at the end and thats when i floored it but my rpm's were low. Im not saying the adx needs to be fixed but made better to suit my car, i think you did a great job!! Im replacing the FPR because i have a new one off my old 94 9C1 and thought that could be why im dumping fuel like you said....or running rich? Not sure what you mean. I work for an auto parts store so I can throw parts at anything i think might be wrong lol but have enough parts off the old beast to keep the current one alive. I am going to use TP RT tonight to see if the gauges and monitors are all working correctly because i deff went over 60 and I dont think it showed me going that fast. Ill use my GPS to see the top speed then cross check with tp RT and If you want i can put the log on here but it might be long. I'll only post it if something seems wrong and ll include the time on the log so you dont have to watch a graph and monitor for 25 minutes lol. I will wait on the FPR change though. But what do you mean pig rich? Like gas pouring into engine? If thats what you mean then id guess it would be the FPR

[EagleMark]

Cat Converter Overheat is on, I've never had that happen? But your BLM and INT are not moving, meaning the engine is running on fuel tables with no adjustment from O2 sensors. O2 readings are in .900 to 1.000 which is pegged rich. Even though both right and left O2 sensors are ready and in closed loop, BLM learn is off!

If you work at auto parts store just check pressure, should be 43.5 at idle and go up about 5-6 PSI with no vacuum.

If MPH are off it's your car and not the ADX file. If you changed tires or gears etc... then the bin file in PCM needs to be adjusted for that.

With it running this way there's no reason to worry about knock... I take that back, just watched some more of your data, you have HUGE knock retard almost constantly while accelerating. I would not drive the car until it is fixed and running properly.

[CapriceLT1]

Cat Converter Overheat is on, I've never had that happen? But your BLM and INT are not moving, meaning the engine is running on fuel tables with no adjustment from O2 sensors. O2 readings are in .900 to 1.000 which is pegged rich. Even though both right and left O2 sensors are ready and in closed loop, BLM learn is off!


With it running this way there's no reason to worry about knock... I take that back, just watched some more of your data, you have HUGE knock retard almost constantly while accelerating. I would not drive the car until it is fixed and running properly.

Its my only car, my bike is ninja is broken lol. I recorded the whole trip to my gf's. Is knock supposed to jump when throttle is higher? There were some points where i just floored it. And BLM should be on? I am going to check continuity and recheck the lines i rewired but it is surprisingly running (feels) better than before. so i should have 0 retard while accelerating? i just re-torqued the one side to 12 lb/fts which is what the impalassforum guys said i should do, the other is around there but its a tight squeeze. Check continuity, wiring, power of wires etc tomorrow. Do you think I should go on there and ask for more help? I havn't gotten any replies from them on my knock issue

[CapriceLT1]

heres code 73, not A/C


Code 73- Pressure control solenoid. (1994-95). Check the pressure solenoid. Normal resistance is between 3-8 ohms at 20C (68F).Replace if out of range. Check lines for damage. Check for clogged filter and replace f necessary.

Code 43- Knock sensor circuit. Check ecm for open or short to ground. Check routing of wiring, including spark plug wires near knock senor wiring, reroute as necessary. Replace knock sensor.

checking PCM tomorrow but maybe bad KS? or bad wiring on my part

On impalassforum i posted the code 43 prob in a few diff places in the past few weeks and need it fixed ASAP. Just posted in hopefully a better section. 150+ views and no comments or maybes.....

[EagleMark]

What have you done to the knock module in PCM or wiring to knock sensors?

I'm not sure what code 73 is but will look? 70's are usually trans...