1996 Chevy C1500 silverado 5.7l vortec engine 2wd CRANK NO START ISSUE.

**simperfi84** · 08-30-2019

Originally Posted by myburb

Possible leaky poppet valve on the spider.

This truck has the upgraded MPFI spider injector assy installed. No poppets. I visually inspected each injector as I was having a helper crank engine over. Also performed a leak down test. System held a steady 55 psi for over 10 minutes.

**stew86MCSS396** · 08-31-2019

Is it throwing any codes? I'd check sensors that can contribute to a rich condition. Frigid coolant temp sensor, high volts on throttle position sensor, high map, etc.

**simperfi84** · 08-31-2019

No codes. Thanks I will check all the sensors. I back off the truck let my mind and frustration clear a bit overnight. I believe that I am most likely responsible for the flooded engine issue, what with the constant cranking and starting attempts. 1 of the first things I did after a quick check as to spark and fuel status was to change the fuel pump. I also went ahead and change the coil. I just really didn't think of the engine getting flooded or it even being an issue. But it is definitely flooded so I will get that cleared out and see what we have after that. Thanks for your help, I will update asap. Got to prepare for hurricane Dorian today.

**myburb** · 08-31-2019

Pull the fuel pump relay, the plugs, change oil if cantaminated with fuel and crank it over. should clear everything out

**THEFERMANATOR** · 09-01-2019

Anytime you have a mysterious crank no start on a corrected firing order distributor cap, I always start by trying another cap. I've lost track of how many times I've seen them with fuel, good pressure, spark, and everything needed to run, but they just wouldn't start. Put another cap on it and they fire right up. It's also common to get fuel washdown from a bad cross firing cap.

**simperfi84** · 09-02-2019

I am going to get back at it today, pull the plugs, clear the cylinders, change the oil. Then see where I am at, I will let you all know what happens. Working on getting my caffeine level up to recommended levels��☕☕☕☕

**1project2many** · 09-03-2019

It really seems like pinpointing the system that has a problem should be easy.

When an engine stalls and won't restart my approach as a tech is usually fairly simple. Remove fuel pump fuse, open throttle, crank engine for 15-20 seconds. At 60-90 deg. F temp this will dry the plugs. Then spray a touch of starting fluid into the intake. If the problem is fuel related the engine will start and stall. If the engine doesn't start I check spark.

Checking spark involves placing an ST125 or similar in the coil wire in series. If you get a bunch of regular sparks then we move on to testing at the plugs. I check multiple plugs because I too have seen way too many of the L31 cap/rotors that fail (due to moisture, and there is a partial cure). If plenty of spark but the engine tries to fire at the wrong time I pull the cap, grab the rotor, and give it a good twist. If it turns the distributor is junk and needs replacement. This happens more often than it should.

If spark and fuel are good then I move on to checking sensor values, plug condition, and engine compression. These engines are fairly reliable and usually the first two tests are enough.

I agree that the distributors and caps for these engines are notorious for problems. The pressed steel rotor "plate" will loosen on the distributor shaft and cause misfires.