1996 Chevy C1500 silverado 5.7l vortec engine 2wd CRANK NO START ISSUE.

[1project2many]

It really seems like pinpointing the system that has a problem should be easy.

When an engine stalls and won't restart my approach as a tech is usually fairly simple. Remove fuel pump fuse, open throttle, crank engine for 15-20 seconds. At 60-90 deg. F temp this will dry the plugs. Then spray a touch of starting fluid into the intake. If the problem is fuel related the engine will start and stall. If the engine doesn't start I check spark.

Checking spark involves placing an ST125 or similar in the coil wire in series. If you get a bunch of regular sparks then we move on to testing at the plugs. I check multiple plugs because I too have seen way too many of the L31 cap/rotors that fail (due to moisture, and there is a partial cure). If plenty of spark but the engine tries to fire at the wrong time I pull the cap, grab the rotor, and give it a good twist. If it turns the distributor is junk and needs replacement. This happens more often than it should.

If spark and fuel are good then I move on to checking sensor values, plug condition, and engine compression. These engines are fairly reliable and usually the first two tests are enough.




I agree that the distributors and caps for these engines are notorious for problems. The pressed steel rotor "plate" will loosen on the distributor shaft and cause misfires.

[vilefly]

After you follow 1project2many's advice, then pull out and inspect the crank sensor in the timing cover for damage from contacting the reluctor. Older engine = more endplay. When the reluctor contacts the crank sensor, it can send an erratic signal that the computer interprets as a higher rpm, and sends out a burst of injector pulses in error as a result. The new aftermarket crank sensors include shims to compensate for old aged, wobbly crankshafts.

The other thing to watch for is the crank sensor harness burning itself on the passenger side exhaust manifold. The yellow wire is the signal from the crank sensor. Maybe yellow-black, I can't remember. Same erratic result or sudden death, there is no in between symptom.

REMEMBER: run all distributor tests first. Check ALL the outputs for each cylinder and coil. A high voltage bite-through on the rotor to the shaft is pretty common, too.

I doubt if the antitheft is stopping you, since you stink of gas, heh.