I didn’t have instant email response tagged so I’m late getting back.
The guy has a top if the line Matco scanner/code reader. Plus the connector for OBD 1. It’s a wireless device.
You can see everything or focus on just one item with this device.
I’m a rank newbie to this level of diagnostics. I’ve used a dedicated scanner for my diesel truck and picked out the exact problem and fixed it. So that’s really the limit if my experience.
I also worked in the performance auto shop for a number of years. We did have an osciloscope but it was pretty primitive for the Era.
Anyway both his scanner and my dedicated laptop it’s it’s software show the same thing. I seem to be able to get a little further into the information in that I can select clear items. With one exception, I can’t clear the or reset the BLM box.
When you scan it clearly shows 3 cyl at max richness and one cyl very close. I thing for numbers it’s 160 and 150.
Looking at all other sensors the show generally mid range. You can see both O2 cycling. Both have been replaced. As have both Cats. A smoke test showed no leaks anywhere all the way to the front of the motor. I’ve not used one nor was I there when it was done.
I questioned whether there might be a cam and lifter problem. There doesn’t seem to be. However the real question is why did the event switch from the left bank to the right bank? Then it becomes non responsive to any changes. It has a new old stock OPTI Spark as well as new OEM wires and spark plugs. There is spark on all plugs.
There is low manifold vacuum. It measures in metric by the scanner and I recall about 10-11 inches by conversion. Also vacuum gage.
The car idles right on rpm but has a “putter” and an occasional “crack” from the right side exhaust. It feels like a dead ignition miss. The car does drive as long as it’s not loaded going up hill. Anything below about 55-60 it will drop out of OD or I have to manually down shift. It has the towing package gear which is 2.92 or there about. I can’t imagine the standard gear of 2.56 originally the car ran perfect. You could cruise at any speed and the trans. would drop out of converter lock and down shift appropriately for the speed. It was a joy and very easy car to go anywhere. Now it’s a PIA. I know these motors were designed to have torque at low speed and were very economical as well as decent performers in their day.
I too passing said it would have been easier and less expensive to simply replace the motor and wire harness with a known good one. It would have solved my issue of having a car that runs correctly. On the other hand it would be the ultimate “throw parts at it” solution. I should be like my dad might have said, “ I don’t care what you do, just fix the ..... thing” .
And indeed at this point I really don’t care. We have done everything “by the book” as well as by what I would think common sense. At every step we have weighed the option....will this fix it? Is this a reasonable option? Or are we just guessing?
I burns me that I’ve built some very high performance cars from the ground up that drove nicely. Started everyday got decent mpg, and were very reliable. My current car ‘77 el Camino has a 300/350 that starts at -5 to 95 every time gets as good mpg as the motor can and still passes ‘77 emissions.
This Buick is has to run under more emission requirements but probably 500 engineers designed and caused it to be built.
There is a lot to this thing besides just a motor with a lot of sensors. The wire harness is huge. We have cleaned and inspected many connectors. I don’t think this car was submerged or subjected to high pressure under hood washing. It was a lady’s car.
So I really appreciate any help or comments. You won’t hurt my feelings to call me what you like. I’m more interested in a solution to the problem. If you have to call me whatever to get the point across fine, if it fixes this problem.
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks