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Thread: 94 Buick RoadMaster Estate Wagon LT 1 issues

  1. #121
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    Haha that’s cute.

    From what my son said the car is done snd runs so smoothly you can hardly hear it run. He said it didn’t make one revolution to start after all this. I’ll get a few good scans right away for reference. I have to say the EEHACK and the little laptop I got for it have been instrumental in servicing this car.
    I’m going out in the morning to pick it up. I plan on posting som pictures of the junk that was removed and replaced. Hopefully I can get clear enough pictures that others can comment on. I’m really disappointed that the first guy couldn’t fix this car. It appears that the main issue was the water pump leaked and ruined the Opti. Both of these were replaced in the first go around. It’s hard to believe the “new water pump” could immediately fail. The car didn’t run well after these were replaced to begin with. I only drove the car about 1000 miles during this whole process. I’ll post pictures of the “new”Opti and the “new” water pump. Then we’ll look at the plugs and wires that were supposed to be “new” . We are are still trying to find a new pulley with the bearing. I don’t know if we can just remove the bearing. I’ll look tomorrow.none of the local parts stores even have it listed. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

    I want to thank every one for all the helpful information given here.
    Byron

    here is the inside of the Opticap we removed. Not cleaned or touched.
    im having trouble with pictures so I’ll wait until later.id just like observations...t see if I agree.’ll comment later.
    Last edited by Bentwings; 2 Weeks Ago at 08:31 PM.

  2. #122
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    Bentwings,

    It is nice that in the end it is all good. It was a good diagnostics workshop for all of us.

    I remember that you mentioned the PCM was changed at some point.

    Steveo the creator of EEhack needs a test PCM to develop more features to the already awsome program. If you still have that spare PCM can you borrow it to him.

    Thanks

  3. #123
    Fuel Injected! vilefly's Avatar
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    If it is a metal pulley, you can drive out the old bearing to replace it. You will have to read the number off the bearing itself, and type it directly into google for results. I can't remember the number, (6502 or 6205, etc) but it is a common bearing used for nearly all GM pulleys for many years. I had bought a dozen of them in case I had supply issues, but they are at the shop, and this is the weekend.

  4. #124
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    I picked the Buick up today and drove about 100 miles. I purrs like a kitten. When itís running you can barely feel it neutral idle is about 700 in gear about 650.

    Iíll post a couple pictures I took today. Iíd like comments. The car has 117 k on it Iíve driven it about 1000 miles during this ordeal mostly travel to and from the original shop.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Bentwings; 2 Weeks Ago at 08:24 PM.

  5. #125
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    Well here is another tidbit.
    A friend of my son has a hotrod caprice sedan. He is also a GM MECHANIC, TECHNISION.


    He came by to see how things were going. He picked up a couple spark plugs that we took out and looked at them. He says ď the guy didnít even put new plugs inĒ. Look at the ends these have a little dimple in the center. These only come on OEM GM CarsCARS from the factory..You canít buy the dimple plugs only ones that are flat on the ends. We didnít know this so Iím going to go over to the local Buick GMC dealer and ask ther, not to dispute but to verify. I suspect something to do with warrantee. I have pictures but I canít get them into ďpicturesĒ from messages on my phone.

    This story just keeps going on and on.

    Byron
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Bentwings; 1 Week Ago at 06:03 PM.

  6. #126
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    Interesting. We always looked for a dot of paint on the OE plugs. Nothing aftermarket came with a paint dot.

    https://www.silveradosierra.com/vort....html#p2334498

  7. #127
    Fuel Injected! vilefly's Avatar
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    I usually look at the other end of the plug to determine its worthiness. If there is erosion, (within 1k miles) then it was never new.

  8. #128
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    I under stand the business end of the plugs.

    This car had OEM plugs in it when I originally brought the car to the guy. He determined that it was time for new plugs and I was charged for them. However it looks like these are the original plugs. Cleaned and stuck back in.I’m still investigating the validity or the statement about the dimple identifier.

  9. #129
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    One more small issue has come up.

    When coming to a stop brakes on the motor or car “chugs intermittently. More of a jerk against the brakes.Not all the time however. Mostly when warm. Although it was -12 deg f and I did it then too. It’s like a single cyl misfire. So far no codes no check engine light.
    It’s not a constant miss just intermittently when stopped with the brakes on. It seems to go away as some as brakes are released. Does not make any difference how hard brakes ar on. I also tested as very low speed and gently pressed the brakes. I couldn’t feel it or hear it. So I’m not sure if it’s just something caused by brake actuation or something else.

    Possibly something going on with idle air control.from the looks of it this was not serviced by the first guy.although he must have removed it when swapping intakes.. the Opti is completely sealed and new vacuum lines installed. Brand new water pump. No leaks.new plug wires and plugs.it may be the AC compressor cycling but it’s very quick what ever it is. Possible momentary converter locking and unlocking.if you listen very carefully you can hear or slightly feel the down shifts when coming to a stop. Doesn’t seem be associated with these. To me it seams something associated with brake activation.

  10. #130
    Fuel Injected! vilefly's Avatar
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    We need to know what the IAC count is on a warmed up engine in Park and then in Drive. Should be 18-23 idling in Park, and about 24-30 in Drive, no climate controls turned on.

    Then we can go on to see what condition the transmission fluid is in. Red with clutch dust, brown with clutch dust, black and burned? The smell of the fluid is important. If the IAC counts are nominal, then I wonder about the TCC solenoid sticking a bit. I have had to drive cars for about 20-30min above 50mph on the highway for this type of symptom to show up. Sometimes it is bad enough to stop the motor once, only to let the car restart with no idling syptoms. Clutch dust in the fluid usually is the cause....fluid change and filter will solve the sticking solenoid issue. It feels like someone driving a stick shift forgetting to disengage the clutch while hitting the brakes and killing the engine as a result. You symptom is milder, I think. Near-stall.

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