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Thread: 95 LT-1 Idle Cell Comparison - Humidity?

  1. #151
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    The next big thing after eehack release is the controller key shortcut. It is like a pro level factory tool now. Fast seemless and easy to control anything on the fly without going in deep staring analysis what`s where and than finding the buttons with that tiny mouse pointer. Great work.
    It compiles without issues on windows, I even managed to add some changes already. I have added some info buttons already and made some final tweaks to the controller interface and will try to merge both versions.

    The trim buttons worked perfect. I am thinking to move the I+S and 0+S to I+0 and O+0, since it is really unsetting the correction, and add *+9 for the enable button. Also plan to expand the controls to cyl cut and mafpumpshot with C+0..8 and M+0..8.

    The open loop button might get better. As it is set now it doesn`t stop the blm learn mode off and doesn`t reset the blms to 128. BLMs and INTs even in open loop keeps adjusting if not set to 128.

    The hex display on eoit is cool, I might rework some of the other displays like it. I still didn`t managed to get the cyltrims decimal conversion right. Can you take a look at it.


    The smaller thermostat opening can be compensated with higher overal coolant system pressure. Find out what is the radiator cap pressure rating on the fords engines. That one is perfect for off hot summer usage and the 160 can be put when it gets really hot in the summer. I am suprised you even score a replacement due to the unique reverse flowing system in lt1`s.

    The hottest cruising temperatures I got with 160* were in the 82-84*C with ambient air temp reaching 33 C*, high humidity and speed of 50-65 mph. That`s on average + 10-12 degrees above thermostat rating. A 77 + 10-12 will get you right where you want it.

    By the joint tuning effort alot of uncharted stuff emerged and resulted to the perfect tune. Even the slightest possible variable was discussed and the vette CL settings were uncovered for the average f-body owner.

  2. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by kur4o View Post
    I have added some info buttons already and made some final tweaks to the controller interface and will try to merge both versions.
    Thanks, and please do. Most important to me is that whatever useful knowledge I can share, is shared freely to anyone willing to read.

    Quote Originally Posted by kur4o View Post
    I am thinking to move the I+S and 0+S to I+0 and O+0, since it is really unsetting the correction, and add *+9 for the enable button.
    Sounds good. Bear in mind the modifier key for 'set' isn't needed. I'll try to PM you more details on this tomorrow but modifier keys '0' and 'I' aren't needed once in the process of adjusting a trim value, just 'S'. But '0' (zero) works fine for me. With 'enable' the modifier key will be needed. I realize there's a language barrier - just let me know and I can help figure it out.

    Quote Originally Posted by kur4o View Post
    The hex display on eoit is cool, I might rework some of the other displays like it. I still didn`t managed to get the cyltrims decimal conversion right. Can you take a look at it.
    I'll give it a look. Honestly on any single byte field I like to do my tuning directly in hex, outside of TunerPro. That way I know the source of any rounding errors and can choose the 'sane' rounding manually.

    Quote Originally Posted by kur4o View Post
    The smaller thermostat opening can be compensated with higher overal coolant system pressure. Find out what is the radiator cap pressure rating on the fords engines.
    Interesting. So higher pressure equals higher density even with liquids? I guess I should have paid more attention in physics class.

    Quote Originally Posted by kur4o View Post
    I am suprised you even score a replacement due to the unique reverse flowing system in lt1`s.
    There is absolutely nothing special about the thermostat for the LT-1's reverse flow cooling system. The reverse flow stuff is cast into the block. The thermostat is exactly the same as every other thermostat in every other car running down the road regardless of vintage. I can explain in detail if needed, but long story short, an automotive thermostat is an automotive thermostat, end of story.

    Quote Originally Posted by kur4o View Post
    By the joint tuning effort alot of uncharted stuff emerged and resulted to the perfect tune. Even the slightest possible variable was discussed and the vette CL settings were uncovered for the average f-body owner.
    I can take very little credit, but am immensely satisfied knowing this information is available for the next guy that decides to take on the task.

  3. #153
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    Had a chance to do some tuning on the off-idle trims today. Unlike closed-throttle trims which seemed to be best when running very close to the fairly aggressive factory tune, it seems with this cam and the EGR it develops at low speeds a tamer set of trims is better.

    Code:
    closed	stock	open	stock
    1-83	82	83	88
    8-7e	7D	81	7B
    4-86	80	81	83
    3-80	80	80	83
    6-88	84	81	7A
    5-7f	80	7e	7D
    7-75	74	7e	7E
    2-86	83	84	86
    I tried running the stock trims, but when I attempted to adjust for BLM split (lean on the right side again) a very noticeable surge / hard miss developed at low speeds and throttle openings. Even at 75mph in 6th with the cruise control on the engine was noticeably "unhappy" at lower loads.

    The open trims above are much smoother tooling around town, and even improved overall smoothness when lugging the car up a hill in 6th gear at 1300 rpm. Something I've been unable to do since putting the stock cam in storage.

    Startup fueling has been all over the place, but it's getting to be the time of year when this one will spend most of the next 4 months sitting in the garage so I should have plenty of time to work on that. I'm hoping this winter it will spend markedly less time sitting on stands with a major powertrain component absent.

  4. #154
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    Quote Originally Posted by spfautsch View Post
    Had a chance to do some tuning on the off-idle trims today. Unlike closed-throttle trims which seemed to be best when running very close to the fairly aggressive factory tune, it seems with this cam and the EGR it develops at low speeds a tamer set of trims is better.

    Code:
    closed	stock	open	stock
    1-83	82	83	88
    8-7e	7D	81	7B
    4-86	80	81	83
    3-80	80	80	83
    6-88	84	81	7A
    5-7f	80	7e	7D
    7-75	74	7e	7E
    2-86	83	84	86
    I tried running the stock trims, but when I attempted to adjust for BLM split (lean on the right side again) a very noticeable surge / hard miss developed at low speeds and throttle openings. Even at 75mph in 6th with the cruise control on the engine was noticeably "unhappy" at lower loads.

    The open trims above are much smoother tooling around town, and even improved overall smoothness when lugging the car up a hill in 6th gear at 1300 rpm. Something I've been unable to do since putting the stock cam in storage.

    Startup fueling has been all over the place, but it's getting to be the time of year when this one will spend most of the next 4 months sitting in the garage so I should have plenty of time to work on that. I'm hoping this winter it will spend markedly less time sitting on stands with a major powertrain component absent.
    Hiya
    How did you calculate those Open throttle figues?
    Closed throttle seems relatively straight forward.

    Is there any easy way to display these in TunerPro in an easier to view format?
    as in cylinder layout

    1 2
    3 4
    5 6
    7 8

    I'm unable to tune currently. It's cold (icy) wet and dark.
    My Speed Engineering Y pipe has arrived as my mate can't bend over 63mm pipe.
    Winter project is Speed Engineering Long Tubes & dual cutouts.
    All will be Thermal Barrier Ceramic coated once I just get my workspace set up.


    Thanks
    Mitch
    '95 Z28 M6 -Just the odd mod.
    '80 350 A3 C3 Corvette - recent addition.

  5. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terminal_Crazy View Post
    How did you calculate those Open throttle figues?
    That was merely a wild guess based on the trims I was running before reverting to something closer to stock. It's more or less 128 / 0x80 / 1.00 with a small bit more fuel on the right bank and then slightly less on the back cylinders (7 & 8) and slightly more to the front (1 & 2).

    Quote Originally Posted by Terminal_Crazy View Post
    Is there any easy way to display these in TunerPro in an easier to view format?
    as in cylinder layout
    Not that I'm aware of. Honestly I had committed the small block chevy firing order and bank assignments to memory before I had fully developed facial hair, so representing them in firing order makes perfect sense to me. But having been forced at gunpoint to work on a modern ford v8 I can understand how it would be less than intuitive. When the ECM tells you there's a misfire on #7 I instinctively want to look at the left rear cylinder.

  6. #156
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    Anyone have an idea how the 12bf1 EOIT ramp out multiplier works? kur4o I thought you mentioned I should work on it when I'd tried decreasing EOIT with coolant temp.

    In testing startup fueling I've been letting it come to temp at idle, and I believe I found something that could have been a factor with the really bad idle splits.

    During warm-up when ECT hits 44c my O2s start to fluctuate - left moves around some but right goes dead lean. It stays this way until about 56c. This falls in line with the second EOIT transition - in the stock bin it's moving from 360* to 180*. Looking at some older logs, this lean condition didn't improve until around 65c. But the ecu had already switched to closed loop at 60c (which resulted in a massive split).

    In looking at the disassembly I can't really tell what the ramp out multiplier does - I would presume it dampens the implementation of the EOIT value so as to not cause an abrupt shift in fueling, but I'm not sure what it's value represents. Whatever the case, it appears by what comments I'm seeing in the disassembly that the EOIT table data is interpolated only when transitioning to higher values (lower atdc degrees). It seems like the interpolation alone would offer adequate damping.

    At any rate, I'm not sure there's any point to my questions - just looking for more information on how this all works.

    I do however notice the possibility for a problem if the code transitions to closed loop at the "normal IAT" minimum closed loop temp (33c in base y-body tune). I'm moving that to 60c to match the "cold IAT" value in the 0x26e3 table,

  7. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by spfautsch View Post
    Anyone have an idea how the 12bf1 EOIT ramp out multiplier works? ,
    From what I gather from experiments it is some kind of factor for graduate change of values. For example if you command a change from $20 to $40 it will slow down the change to by $01 each second. so the transition will takes place 40 seconds. That is only example. I haven`t test the actual rate with $10, nor I know in which direction the increase of it will take place, slowing or speeding the change.

    There is 1 way to test it. Monitor the eside word_a9 while changing the EOIT target from end to end on the controller window with ignition on.
    To do it open raw window in eehack, and loop in 50ms interval the command e4 ... 03 00 a9 00 aa , you will get a response with the word_a9.
    Check how much it takes for the change. Than flash a bin with new 12b1f value, for example $20 and do the same test. Compare the results if it takes more or less time for the change to occur.

    On ybody calibrations the timers for closed loop operations are set much lower. You can try increasing them if the engine doesn`t warm up fast enough.

    At startup I found the it warms up best at pig rich condition o2 above 900mv, when running close to stoich at warm up, it run rough and you can feel some misses from time to time. I also played with idle spark and make a curve to change the spark during warm up.
    I end up with that spark coolant temp corr table.
    Code:
    5.0    5.0    5.0    6.0    8.0    8.0    8.0    8.0    8.0    8.0    8.0    8.0    8.0    8.0    8.0
    5.0    5.0    5.0    6.0    8.0    8.0    8.0    8.0    8.0    8.0    8.0    8.0    8.0    8.0    8.0
    4.0    4.0    5.0    5.0    5.0    5.0    5.0    5.0    5.0    5.0    5.0    5.0    5.0    5.0    5.0
    0.0    -11.0    -11.0    -11.0    -11.0    -11.0    -11.0    -2.0    3.0    3.0    3.0    3.0    3.0    3.0    3.0
    0.0    -8.0    -8.0    -8.0    -8.0    -8.0    -8.0    -2.0    2.0    2.0    2.0    2.0    2.0    2.0    2.0
    0.0    -6.0    -6.0    -6.0    -6.0    -6.0    -6.0    -2.0    2.0    2.0    2.0    2.0    2.0    2.0    2.0
    0.0    -3.0    -3.0    -3.0    -3.0    -3.0    -3.0    -3.0    -3.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0
    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0
    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0
    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0
    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    -2.0    -2.0    -2.0    -6.0    -6.0    -6.0    -6.0    -6.0    -6.0    -6.0    -6.0
    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    -8.0    -8.0    -12.0    -12.0    -12.0    -12.0    -12.0    -12.0    -12.0    -12.0    -12.0
    0.0    0.0    0.0    0.0    -8.0    -8.0    -12.0    -12.0    -12.0    -12.0    -12.0    -12.0    -12.0    -12.0    -12.0
    If you change that table beware that some xdfs can`t handle negative correction and zeroes the value when negative. I think I fixed it on the last xdf i posted here.

    I plan to get the hotter thermostat also. Do you know a cross reference number for a Stant one.

  8. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by spfautsch View Post

    In testing startup fueling I've been letting it come to temp at idle, and I believe I found something that could have been a factor with the really bad idle splits.

    During warm-up when ECT hits 44c my O2s start to fluctuate - left moves around some but right goes dead lean. It stays this way until about 56c. This falls in line with the second EOIT transition - in the stock bin it's moving from 360* to 180*. Looking at some older logs, this lean condition didn't improve until around 65c. But the ecu had already switched to closed loop at 60c (which resulted in a massive split).
    Yes I've posted this previously a good while back.
    Consistantly around 44C to 56C the RHS O2 flatlines.
    The AFR gauge also leans out and car runs noticably rougher.
    This is still in OL as I don't go CL until about 70C.

    I've never found the cause. ( 3 sets of injectors have all done it).
    at around 56C it seems to come back on line.

    Another oddity I've mentioned before & nobody has answered...
    Frequently noticed, I've had the car idling ( may not have been very hot, but certainly above 80C).
    BLM's on one side would go up by say 5 points in several seconds.
    The other side generally followed with 20-30 seconds

    Mitch
    '95 Z28 M6 -Just the odd mod.
    '80 350 A3 C3 Corvette - recent addition.

  9. #159
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terminal_Crazy View Post
    Consistantly around 44C to 56C the RHS O2 flatlines.

    Mitch
    It is the transition region of the EOIT target and could be related for sure. Maybe setting the transition to happen at higher temperatures can cure it some.

    I have also experienced some flatlines of 02s and tried alot of stuff fixing it with no positive results. I suspected exhaust leak and tried adjusting the maf curve also. It could be of the cold 02s not reading right but wideband agrees too.
    I will try to dig some logs and check the coolant temperatures.

  10. #160
    Fuel Injected! spfautsch's Avatar
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    kur4o your inbox is full. Thanks for the suggestions on monitoring the EOIT change - I'll try to give it a shot when I have a chance and report back.

    Quote Originally Posted by kur4o View Post
    On ybody calibrations the timers for closed loop operations are set much lower. You can try increasing them if the engine doesn`t warm up fast enough.
    I just put my CL enable temp to 60c, and may go higher. I can't imagine why they would have even attempted to jump to closed loop at 33c, it seems absurd at that cold of an operating temp.

    Quote Originally Posted by kur4o View Post
    I also played with idle spark and make a curve to change the spark during warm up.
    I end up with that spark coolant temp corr table.
    I noticed this and will probably try to do the same once I have startup tables figured out. The reason behind this is that richer mixtures support faster flame front propagation (burn faster) so require less spark advance. The harshness you feel with lots of advance during warmup is cylinder pressure peaking sooner than is optimal (10-18 atdc depending on stroke and connecting rod lengths). This is another side-effect of the EGR developed by the cam overlap - at operating temps (and resultant leaner fueling) much more spark advance is needed because of the mostly inert (i.e. devoid of oxygen) exhaust gas diluting the charge.

    Quote Originally Posted by kur4o View Post
    I plan to get the hotter thermostat also. Do you know a cross reference number for a Stant one.
    Sorry, I don't but will try searching for you. Unfortunately this is an alternate temp t-stat so Stant may not make one with this wax motor and in this size. If possible, try Amazon. Autozone sells this MotoRad piece rebranded as Duralast part # 15397. Or if nothing else works, if you PM me your address or that of a friend I'd gladly ship you one.

    Quote Originally Posted by Terminal_Crazy View Post
    Another oddity I've mentioned before & nobody has answered...
    Frequently noticed, I've had the car idling ( may not have been very hot, but certainly above 80C).
    BLM's on one side would go up by say 5 points in several seconds.
    I've never seen both sides jump like that, but have seen it on my right side. The only suggestion I can make is to keep in mind if you can hear any lope from your cam, what you're hearing is a misfire. And when the engine misses raw fuel gets into the exhaust which causes the O2s to read lean. And that causes the CL PID logic to add fuel when no additional fuel is needed. Perhaps the problem then "snowballs" due to the raw fuel.

    I'm seeing this now with my EOIT at 0x68-0x69. I've found that when it's at 80c and higher the BLMs are adding 3-7% on both sides (134L, 137R is fairly common), and the raw fuel smell gets a bit worse. But as long as it continues to idle this smoothly at 800 RPM I honestly couldn't care less. As we all know, bigger cams like to run rich. I may just put my cats back on and call it good.

    I've also noticed that the CL PID loop seems to be biased towards rich. In other words it is more eager to add fuel to compensate for a perceived lean condition, than it removes fuel due to a similar rich condition.

    Edit: kur4o - I've also noticed what I think you've mentioned with tuning startup fueling. I've found if I shut the engine down when not at full operating temperature, and especially when not also in closed loop - the amount of fuel left in the ports dramatically changes how the next startup goes. I'm trying to develop a methodology for tackling this, but it seems like it's going to involve letting the engine sit idle (not running) for 2-3 days between tests, and bringing it up to full operating temp each time before shutting it down.

  11. #161
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    I've found a Stant 45967 and Gates 33747S that are close, and are shown on another vehicle application that uses the Motorad part (2004 Nissan 2.4L).

    The only problem I see with them is they appear to have smaller primary disk openings and the bypass disk stem (on the bottom) is about 2.5mm shorter than the one called for. The Motorad is only about 1mm shorter. This means the bypass may not close completely when the thermostat is open. Probably wouldn't cause any trouble, but I'd prefer the Motorad piece.

  12. #162
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    Quote Originally Posted by spfautsch View Post
    I've found a Stant 45967 and Gates 33747S that are close, and are shown on another vehicle application that uses the Motorad part (2004 Nissan 2.4L).
    The only problem I see with them is they appear to have smaller primary disk openings and the bypass disk stem (on the bottom) is about 2.5mm shorter than the one called for. The Motorad is only about 1mm shorter.
    This means the bypass may not close completely when the thermostat is open. Probably wouldn't cause any trouble, but I'd prefer the Motorad piece.
    https://www.z28.com/threads/thermost.../#post-1590316
    … The [LT1] thermostat does two things.
    The first is to control the coolant coming from the radiator to the pump. The second (the lower disk) cuts off the bypass route that the coolant takes when the thermostat is closed.
    When the thermostat is cold/closed, the coolant flows continually through the engine without going to the radiator. That way the thermostat gets an accurate reading.
    When the thermostat opens, that path is closed off and all coolant goes through the radiator. Without a thermostat installed, some of the coolant will go back to the engine without going through the radiator.
    Besides MotoRad & Stant, I can't think of any other brand names whose thermostats I'd trust.LT1 H2Opumps need LT1 thermostats.
    Last edited by LeMarky Dissod; 3 Weeks Ago at 03:21 PM.
    THEY are NOT Lying to You. You are NOT Lying to Yourself. You ARE Being Lied to - BY Your Self
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    Quote Originally Posted by spfautsch View Post
    I've found a Stant 45967 and Gates 33747S that are close, and are shown on another vehicle application that uses the Motorad part (2004 Nissan 2.4L).

    The only problem I see with them is they appear to have smaller primary disk openings and the bypass disk stem (on the bottom) is about 2.5mm shorter than the one called for. The Motorad is only about 1mm shorter. This means the bypass may not close completely when the thermostat is open. Probably wouldn't cause any trouble, but I'd prefer the Motorad piece.
    Thanks for the part numbers. Does the stock gasket works fine with the 2028?
    I also investigate the matter through rockauto and made a list of 2028 interchange part numbers with different open temp and applications. From what I gathered as info, The lT1 thremostat is the same overall dimension as the sbc 94-00 but flows more due to enlarged opening. Too bad delco doesn`t make 170* one.

    The main question is, will the 2028 flows enough or should I keep the 160* one and do the cardboard thermostat mod. While searching I also found that the nascar guys target 200-210*F as the best temperature for the combustion process. Completely in par with the most fan settings 100*C-on 95*C-off pre obd2 emission standarts.
    Somehow I nailed the temp down with 93*C low and 96*C high.

    The reverse flow cooling system might change the Nascar equation and the optimal for lt1 could be 90-93 *C. STill needs experiments to confirm.

    For startup test you can always clean the left over fuel with some starter time and injectors fuses off. Nailing down the pedal above 80% tps also stops fuel from being sprayed.

    I make some test with hot restarts. First hot restart is always good. Second is almost good and on the third I have long cranking. The test was made with 4-5 seconds run time.

    It could be subjective feel but when I adjust the fuel flow constant and return back to stock maf curve, the engine run much much better even though the wideband and spark didn`t show any deviations. I also witness some real low map values.

    I dig up 2 logs where 02s flat drop from 50 to 53 *C, than recover with no apparent reason. I know for sure I have other logs too but can`t find them. In par with the EOIT target change from 44 to 56 degrees or 270* to 180* which interpolated is 225*-247.5* at 50-53*C. Really wierd.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  14. #164
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    Quote Originally Posted by kur4o View Post
    Thanks for the part numbers. Does the stock gasket works fine with the 2028?
    So far so good - it fits around the t-stat housing and I'm not seeing any leaks after 150 miles and about 4 hours of run time. Unfortunately these do not include a new seal so if your current one is getting old I'd suggest getting a new one.

    Quote Originally Posted by kur4o View Post
    The lT1 thremostat is the same overall dimension as the sbc 94-00 but flows more due to enlarged opening.
    This is why I like this particular Motorad part - the advertising on it says it has a 30% larger primary disk from the "standard flow" parts. I also looked at cap pressure and the 6.8L Ford V10 runs at 16 psi also so I guess the only other question is how much bigger is the water pump impeller? Again, I'm happy to be the guinea pig on this one - if it overheats next summer you can rest assured I'll be her complaining about having to replace whatever parts it breaks.

    Quote Originally Posted by kur4o View Post
    The reverse flow cooling system might change the Nascar equation and the optimal for lt1 could be 90-93 *C.
    I've never read the official rules, but I think you may be making a bit of a leap in assuming they're not all running reverse flow cooling. I'm relatively certain I read somewhere that the reverse flow system used by the LT-1 was conceived by Smokey Yunick for just such an application. He was the DaVinci of cheating - err, "skirting the rules".

    Quote Originally Posted by kur4o View Post
    I dig up 2 logs where 02s flat drop from 50 to 53 *C, than recover with no apparent reason. I know for sure I have other logs too but can`t find them. In par with the EOIT target change from 44 to 56 degrees or 270* to 180* which interpolated is 225*-247.5* at 50-53*C. Really wierd.
    Funny you should mention this. I just tested a cold start - ambients here have dropped to -7c and IAT was reading 9.5 in the garage with the door slightly open. Initial start was awful - cranking time was 1.7s. This jumped out as different because I reset BLMs after startup because they were ridiculously high (140s) from the last idle session yesterday. When ECT hit 41.8c right side O2 was reading 36mv steady, and 8 seconds later the left side followed. Idle quality went to crap. I shut it down b/c I wasn't wanting to suffocate on fumes waiting for it to get to operating temp.

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    Quote Originally Posted by spfautsch View Post
    Initial start was awful - cranking time was 1.7s
    Is it dumping more fuel or it is starving. IF it needs more, bumping the key several times will do the trick and should start right away on the 2nd to 4th bump.

    Decided to look at lt4 calibration to see how the EOIT is set.
    The stock settings are
    Code:
                                          y-LT4 ;y-LT1 ;f-LT1
    RESERVED:337A                 fcb $20   20   20
    RESERVED:337B                 fcb $20   20   20
    RESERVED:337C                 fcb $20   20   20
    RESERVED:337D                 fcb $20   20   20
    RESERVED:337E                 fcb $20   40   40
    RESERVED:337F                 fcb $20   40   40
    RESERVED:3380                 fcb $20   40   40
    RESERVED:3381                 fcb $30 ; 4c   50
    RESERVED:3382                 fcb $40 ; 4e   50
    RESERVED:3383                 fcb $50 ; 50   50
    RESERVED:3384                 fcb $50 ; 50   50 
    RESERVED:3385                 fcb $50 ; 
    RESERVED:3386                 fcb $50 ; 
    RESERVED:3387                 fcb $50 ; 
    RESERVED:3388                 fcb $50 ; 
    RESERVED:3389                 fcb $50 ; 
    RESERVED:338A                 fcb $50 ;
    There is also baro correction applied
    Code:
    RESERVED:338C                 fcb $1D                 ; 1x10 baro correction for EOIT
    RESERVED:338C                                         ;
    RESERVED:338C                                         ; SOME TABLE RESULT BYTE_EC
    RESERVED:338C                                         ; Baro corr to end of inj
    RESERVED:338C                                         ; table value-byte_338d=x
    RESERVED:338C                                         ; x+end of inj
    RESERVED:338D                 fcb $1D
    RESERVED:338E                 fcb $1D
    RESERVED:338F                 fcb $1D
    RESERVED:3390                 fcb $1D
    RESERVED:3391                 fcb $1D
    RESERVED:3392                 fcb $20
    RESERVED:3393                 fcb $20
    RESERVED:3394                 fcb $20
    RESERVED:3395                 fcb $20
    The baro table runs from 53kp to 104.44kp and stock setting are -3 to 0* EOIT added to main EOIT table.
    On lt1 and y and f body the baro correction is set to 0.


    ANother fueling routine that left untouched and might play big role in blm splits is the transition fueling. There is some alient math there, that substract fuel on certain condition, possible compensation for the fuel left on the walls unevaporated.

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