Results 1 to 2 of 2

Thread: Dual Air Intake Setup

  1. #1
    Fuel Injected! mudbuggy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011

    Dual Air Intake Setup

    I have been passively working on a dual air intake for my suburban. I have a stock 89 GMC V1500 4x4 with a 350, 700r4 and 10 bolts front and rear. The programs that I have been using to read the computer are from here and I am (not bragging) getting proficient at location the programs to open TP5. It normally takes me a few times to get the programs in the right locations before I can log. Anyways, I recently took a trip to the cabin, 110 miles round trip with 4 lane highway and 2 lane back roads. I filled up before we left, with the trailer in tow, I got 20 miles per gallon. So I thought, is it possible to tune the truck to the point where I can get 20 mpg or close to it. I have 33" (31.9") tires on it so the mph is off, but the gps is just as or even more accurate. I put approx. 10 gallons of fuel into the truck a week and run 19.8 miles one way to work. Barring any trips off of course (which normally happens once a week) the doctor, license branch, store, guns shop, etc, etc), I'm pretty good at stopping at one station and getting fuel, but I can't get it filled up I have a hole in the fill tube and am waiting on the body lift equipment before I replace the fill tube, since it is rubbing on the frame rail and is the cause of the leak.

    The last time I logged, after I got everything under the hood taped up (for testing purposes before I fabricate the real tubing that will be mounted and stationary). I went to the local pull a part and got every air intake tube that fit my test part that I could find. $4.63 and 3 hours I left with 42 air tubes I headed home to figure out the routing. Got all of the figured out, and tigged together the air cleaner housing. Installed everything under the hood and logging I went. I ran it for 45 minutes in the drive way, 60 degrees out side, had to kick the efan on (the little one on low), never went to closed loop once I was out on the main road (I live in a subdivision). Ran the back roads out to I-70 then up on the 4 lane hardpack for 8 miles, got off at post road and ran 21st street back to my subdivision.

    For all of the run I am still running the stock setup chip, for a bunch of different reasons, mostly just playing it safe. Basically I want to understand the factory setup before I change a bunch of stuff and really don't understand anything! But I do have a few questions, Why would it not go to closed loop sitting in the drive way? 2. What is a safe blm number, I was up on the hardpack running 65ish and I remember looking over and seeing a blm of 131? 3. How far on the bom numbers should I go before backing off of my modding the setup?

    Pics of the setup, I have decided that I will go with a 400 instead of an ls motor when I do the swap, so I really want to figure this out. I want to get the equipment set up and viable before I do the motor, that way all I have to is install all of the parts then just drive!!!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1989 GMC V1500
    2002 Chevy Trailblazer
    1988 Dodge Ramcharger

  2. #2
    RIP EagleMark's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    North Idaho
    Some chips are open loop idle, or if you have headers and just idling O2 will not stay hot enough to go closed loop.

    BLM between 125 and 133 are within boundaries of a good tune and can change with weather.

    Sweet dual snorkel! Now look for the big block air filter lid! It's about 2 inches taller for bigger filter and drops right on! Try to leave one side hot air riser tube from factory to help with cold weather startups and running better. Also good for MPG. Closes when hot so not a deterant.

    1990 Chevy Suburban 5.7L Auto ECM 1227747 $42!
    1998 Chevy Silverado 5.7L Vortec 0411 Swap to RoadRunner!
    -= =-


Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts