Help with a 5-speed swapped 93' S10 8625 $E6 Vin "Z" TBI 4.3

[Philalbar1]

I just used TunerPro RT to read the factory prom, and this is what I got. I don't know if it's any different. If you think it's still a read error, I would like some instruction as to how I should go about reading it. The first one, I didn't change any parameters and let Tunerpro copy the file like it wanted. One the file ending in -2, The chip addressing is from 000000 to 00FFFF, and I switched the buffer addressing to the same instead of it ending at 007FFF. Hope I did this right. The -2 verified chip against buffer with success with 65536 bytes written.

Do you have any suggestions for what to do next? Where to look for a base-line 5-speed bin without all the extra emissions garbage? Am I just gonna have to try and work through multiple .bin files and pick out pieces of each that might apply to my truck, and compile them together for a truly "custom" tune?

Is there a possability that the mask (XDF) might be different than the $E6, and should I be using the Advanced $E6 v200.xdf or one of the other .xdf files? Thanks again 1Project!

~Phil

[1project2many]

I'm wondering if there was a modification made to the PROM from GM

It's possible. But any calibration GM releases for domestic use needs to have EPA approval. Making a change for only one chip is a big project and releasing a chip without EPA testing and approval can result in massive fines.

Here's a thought provoker: The file on the chip contains a checksum. The checksum is a value that is derived using an equation applied to all the bytes in the chip. The ecm looks also at all the bytes in the chip does the same calculation, then checks its results against the checksum stored on the chip. If a byte is changed in the file, the checksum doesn't match and the ecm sets a code for an eprom error.

The checksum in your chip does not match the one that results from applying the formula to all the bytes in the chip.

Since you haven't reported that your ecm is setting a code for eprom error, either the checksum calculation in the software I'm using is incorrect or the data in the file does not match the data used for the original checksum calculation. I have used three different programs to confirm the checksum is wrong and I highly suspect that all three are in error. Therefore I suspect the data in the file presented does not match the data in the chip. I.E., a bad read.

Unfortunately I have no experience with Flash & Burn to advise. But I do suspect the five speed equipped 4.3Z calibration is easily locatable using Hen's Tooth extract mixed with a drop of liquid Unobtainum.

[Philalbar1]

Unfortunately I have no experience with Flash & Burn to advise. But I do suspect the five speed equipped 4.3Z calibration is easily locatable using Hen's Tooth extract mixed with a drop of liquid Unobtainum.

Where in the realm of impossibility can I find these magical compounds my fearless leader??? Please guide me in my quest!

I'm honestly at a loss at this point (again) as to how to proceed on this project. I've been digging around in TP and comparing files just to see the differences. Since I really can't use the "factory tune" anyway, considering the main problem is idle problems from the auto trans tune, should I just start with the California bin, run the comparitor, and make changes until I get the results I'm looking for sometime in the next couple decades? I've got a nice Edelbrock 4bbl that I could throw on it and just say FTW, but I really would like to say I figured this thing out, and have the ability to plug in my setup and tune on the fly. I poked my finger around the pokie bits enough to get my e-fans working proficiently, but this idle thing seems like it's gonna drive me up the wall.

I will enclose the tune that I'm running right now, with the e-fan mod. Maybe it's better to just start from there and try to "tune" my way out of it?

[Philalbar1]

So. . . I took the truck for a ride around the neighborhood tonight, and I was wondering if anyone could look this recording over and see if anything sticks out that I could adjust to get her to idle down between shifts. I know that there's not a ton of data here, but if you watch the throttle position, vehicle speed, and the tach, you should be able to see what I'm talking about. Any help is appreciated!
~Phil

[1project2many]

The 32K copy of your read should be discarded.
The 64K you uploaded under a different name appears the same as the previous file.
A post on LS1Tech describes the BCFZ chip to have four numbers on a silver sticker: 1478,3056. Unfortunately the poster did not upload the file.

The errors in the code area are limited to five bytes. They can be easily corrected. Unfortunately the checksum is still not correct. Further differences between your BCFZ and my saved BCFY are primarily in the transmission area but it's hard to know which values are correct and which are not.

I do have a 4.3 TBI manual calibration for a 94 C/K truck. This is $0D for the 6395. You're welcome to give it a shot.

[Philalbar1]

The 32K copy of your read should be discarded.
The 64K you uploaded under a different name appears the same as the previous file.

Understood. I just wanted to make sure. I have become vaguely familiar again this evening with the compare tool in TPRT. I tried setting some of the idle values down, and it helped a little for RPMs below 1500ish, but she's still wanting to take her sweet time idling down.

I do have a 4.3 TBI manual calibration for a 94 C/K truck. This is $0D for the 6395. You're welcome to give it a shot.

Is this something that can be achieved with my 16168625 ecm? I was under the impression that we had to run programs that were in the mask designed for our ecm, and that the 8625 was the $E6 mask only. Being a newb to this, I have no idea if those assumptions are correct, but if you have a bin that you think would work with my 8625, I'd be more than willing to give it a shot! I'm assuming that I'd just need to download the $0D mask and bin, and send the file to the chip just like the $E6 mask? I remember seeing somewhere that the 8625 was capable of running other things, but I don't remember where I saw it, so I assumed I was stuck with the $E6 mask. Sorry for being such an amatuer at this, and again, I really appreciate all the time you've spent trying to help me!

~Phil

EDIT: I feel like a dipstick. Just found the info on Moates. . . SMH Is there any benefits.downsides to running one mask over the other?

[Philalbar1]

Wait a second, the ECM that came out of the transmission donor truck is an ATAR (16144288) ecm. It also had a TBI 4.3. . . Have I just been being an idiot this whole time? Could I desolder the prom from the donor truck ecm and copy the bin from it, then use the appropriate mask and just send that data to my aftermarket eeprom, and run that configuration in my 8625 ecm?

[myburb]

I think the moates hdr1 adapter might allow you to read the original without desoldering .

[Philalbar1]

I think the moates hdr1 adapter might allow you to read the original without desoldering .

I'm to the point right now burb, unless someone needs this 16144288 ecm for a stock 92 S10, and it could help all of us (potentially) by grabbing the .bin file, I'm down to desolder it and pull data from it. I've been working on electronics since I was knee-high to a duck. I can have it out in 10 minutes, and put it back in again if need be

~Phil

[jim_in_dorris]

The 8625 runs $0D just fine, you can probably pop that sucker on a chip and go. I have a 8625 out of a 93 S10 and it runs a $0D 350 bin. I would give the manual $0D bin a try before trying anything drastic. It's just a burn and try.

[Philalbar1]

Okay, thanks! This may be a stupid question Jim, but do you think I could still use my e-fan "mod" that comes with the $E6, or is there one for the $0D? Can you mix and mash between two masks on the same chip?

[stew86MCSS396]

I'm to the point right now burb, unless someone needs this 16144288 ecm for a stock 92 S10, and it could help all of us (potentially) by grabbing the .bin file, I'm down to desolder it and pull data from it. I've been working on electronics since I was knee-high to a duck. I can have it out in 10 minutes, and put it back in again if need be

~Phil

'288 PROM is not soldered in. PROM sits in a plastic carrier that easily pops out. You can go through all that trouble or just download one to your liking from here: http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...Information-AO
...however chances are '8625 vs. '288 is going to be two different animals. Not gonna be a simple cut and paste as the kpa vs rpm tables are different. Well it would be simple enough to fill in the missing columns or rows that are missing from one mask to the other. ^^^I agree if you're running a stock unaltered engine then yeah there's gonna be a bin that will work with no tuning but at this point in the venture PROM tuning is required to make it run right.

Post #8... http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...Information-0D

[stew86MCSS396]

Nevermind...

[Philalbar1]

Thanks Stew, I actually found an updated e-fan code just down a couple posts from your referenced post #8. I appreciate the help there. That keeps me from having to mess around combining masks and code between the $0d and $E6. I am not even certian that is possible, but with the e-fan code in $0D, shouldn't be a problem, especially if the output wiring is the same. I'll be doing some research on that, and I'm sure I'll be back on here to let yall' know how it's doing. Please continue to provide suggestions if you want. One can never have too many good ideas!

You're right about the chip being in a plastic carrier, but if there's not a need for the ecm, I might desolder the zip socket and use it instead of the clamp-style I'm using now. I've already had one instance while tuning, that the clamp socket released mid-tune, and the ECM went NUTS!!! I thought I had fried it, but after a month (literally) letting the truck sit in the back yard while shopping for a new ecm, I stuck the battery back in her, and she fired right up and ran just like nothing had happened. PLUS, I can add the .bin from the ATAR chip, as I haven't seen it on the site yet. Can't hurt to have more info!

Thanks for your responses here, I really appreciate everyone's help! I'm thinkin I'll give the $0D bin and mask a try, and see if the old red turd runs any better. If not, I've got it to where the engine runs decent, and it drives okay, but not great. Tolerable, but not enjoyable. Hopefully, that'll all change really soon!

~Phil

[1project2many]

I might desolder the zip socket and use it instead of the clamp-style I'm using now.

Hmm... No factory ECM uses a socket that's robust enough for frequent prom changes. The '92 ECM should use a 24 pin chip while the 27C512 is 28 pins. A ZIF socket is a great addition to the memcal from the '8625.