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Thread: low BLM

  1. #151
    Fuel Injected! donf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhworkin View Post
    That bin made the BLM's really good, but it didn't want to go. Attachment 14958 I know the truck should run ok with a stock bin and a lot better with this bin, but it's horrible to drive with those bins. I can't figure it out, why does it need so much timing? Why does it run better in open loop? Why does it run better with the esc wire disconnected? Do I have a bad distributor, a internal mechanical failure? I'm almost to the point of tearing it down.
    I would buy a TDC locator/stop once you have one it's easy to see if the balancer has slipped or the marks are in the wrong place. If your balancer is off then everything that builds on that will be also. With a fresh rebuild that's one of the first things I do, even before the heads go on, as they have been known to get mismatched. Now that its complete its still not hard to double check. You can check your advance latency through the rpm range incase a module is messing up. Just set the whole table to the same fixed number and get a good light. Plug in the timing connector, warm the engine up and have a buddy rev the engine very slowly. If you see changes that's a clue as it should be fixed at all points.

  2. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhworkin View Post
    Initial is at 9.8 I set fuel pressure at 13 lbs when I used the bin you sent because the the flow rate was 62
    I was expecting something like 18-22 psi when I made that VE table. Were the BLMs super lean? 140-150? I have not looked at the logs yet. On engines that breath well unless you are running like 30 psi fuel pressure, I usually end up having to lie to the PCM on the injector flow constant.

    For example the stock L31 in a G20 Van I am tuning has the injector constant set at 50 lbs/hr. It has 61 lb/hr injectors at 15 psi and that calculates to 68 lb/hr.
    Last edited by Fast355; 3 Weeks Ago at 07:46 PM.

  3. #153
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    I loaded this bin to the ostrich and its running good. 2JHENDRY Vortec L31 BJYL.bin Don't know why the Harris bin works good (but rich) with no crazy problems when all others have major problems. I have a G1 adapter with the Harris memcal plugged into it and then the ostrich. After driving with this bin, it is clear that the engine mechanics are not the problem. Where should I begin, could the Harris memcal be interfering with the procces? should I go salvage a memcal and use it instead? What do you think about building a bin the same as the harris bin and see if the same problems happen when its loaded into the ostrich. It's something weird that's happening.

  4. #154
    Fuel Injected! donf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhworkin View Post
    I loaded this bin to the ostrich and its running good. 2JHENDRY Vortec L31 BJYL.bin Don't know why the Harris bin works good (but rich) with no crazy problems when all others have major problems. I have a G1 adapter with the Harris memcal plugged into it and then the ostrich. After driving with this bin, it is clear that the engine mechanics are not the problem. Where should I begin, could the Harris memcal be interfering with the procces? should I go salvage a memcal and use it instead? What do you think about building a bin the same as the harris bin and see if the same problems happen when its loaded into the ostrich. It's something weird that's happening.
    Are you are still using the ostrich instead of burning chips? I thought you were going to stop that months ago and buy the right stuff to run off chips. My advice is to stop all shortcuts until you know what is going on with your tunes. Its adding another layer of possible problems, when you cant figure out whats going on over several months/years. It looks like you are looking at some end results and jumping to conclusions without doing the real work to verify the results. While you are probably correct on most, the parts you are missing are obviously biting you big time. Sometimes as a diagnostic mechanic, that guessing without doing the work would cost me a lot of money. When I recommend stopping and checking the basics, its up to you, but the reason is I have been there and have also worked on vehicles where people worked themselves in circles by guessing and by checking the basics the problem was found quickly. When you can not figure out a problem, break it down in chunks and know what you are checking, double and triple check stuff, don't jump to conclusions. I would also look at any wiring you have hooked into the factory harness. A while back you mentioned hooking a few things into the harness and it was causing problems. Just going from memory. The wrong wiring can pull voltages down or possible cause feedback due to poor grounds. A lot of what you will be going over will check out fine, that's the idea, but wasting time now can save you months of further frustration.

  5. #155
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    donf, your last post got me thinking about basics. When I started this thread it was because I was having problems tuning the BLM's. That was because I was using the pink wire coming from the EGR pigtail (EGR is deleted) to the terminal 86 on the fan relay. This pink wire goes to every sensor so I stopped using it for switched power. I didn't realize the fix because it was done on the same day that I got the WBO2 hooked up and working in TP5. So now I have the wideband and have developed a intake backfire, weak performance and a 23,000 timing number. Basics, this started with the wideband and happens with any bin that the parameters are changed to make AFR show in the TP5 data. I stopped using the ostrich today and burned a chip with the bin from fast355 and it was bad, so I loaded the same bin and set the wideband parameters back to stock, burned that chip and it worked great. I did a test on 5 different bins and it happened to all of them. Thanks for the reply.

  6. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhworkin View Post
    donf, your last post got me thinking about basics. When I started this thread it was because I was having problems tuning the BLM's. That was because I was using the pink wire coming from the EGR pigtail (EGR is deleted) to the terminal 86 on the fan relay. This pink wire goes to every sensor so I stopped using it for switched power. I didn't realize the fix because it was done on the same day that I got the WBO2 hooked up and working in TP5. So now I have the wideband and have developed a intake backfire, weak performance and a 23,000 timing number. Basics, this started with the wideband and happens with any bin that the parameters are changed to make AFR show in the TP5 data. I stopped using the ostrich today and burned a chip with the bin from fast355 and it was bad, so I loaded the same bin and set the wideband parameters back to stock, burned that chip and it worked great. I did a test on 5 different bins and it happened to all of them. Thanks for the reply.
    I modified the bin you sent me. Never thought about it could be an issue with the widebamd setup. I have used the wideband logging in the past and never had an issue with it when it was properly setup.

    So my bin ran ok after disabling the WB02?

  7. #157
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    It had good pickup, I’m going to raise the injector flow and fuel pressure before I drive home. It was bucking a little at cruise

  8. #158
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    The two logs are the same bin, one has WBO2 and the other doesn't. I would like to use the WBO2 data, the gauge and data read the same and its recording. So what issues could there be? I noticed that noWBO2-FP20.xdlI'm not recording knock counts in the logs FP@19.xdl

  9. #159
    Fuel Injected! donf's Avatar
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    I loved the wideband feeding data into turner pro also. No problems ever. Its a little slow to record, so fast opening or closing can cause weird numbers in the wrong cell, but nothing like you describe. There has to be a mistake in there somewhere, either hook up or bin. Glad you are getting it narrowed down!

  10. #160
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    I’ve narrowed a problem down to the memcal and the adapter. After removing the ostrich it got better but started acting up yesterday, and all bins that I burned were bad. When I removed the ostrich the knock counts stopped showing in TP so today I reset the memcal to the adapter and the counts started recording and it’s running great. With the memcal pushed all the way into the adapter the connection is bad. I’m going to load the WBO2 parameters in a bin to see if it works.

  11. #161
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    It's the tuning hardware or software that is causing my problems. After setting, resetting, making sure I have good connections with the hardware and running a lot of test bins with no consistent results I removed the G1 memory adapter and inserted the memcal directly into the PCM and the problems stopped. Not sure if the adapter is bad or the bins are corrupt, just glad to have found the ghost. It's been a 2 year rollercoaster because I relied on this to work but instead it has cost me more money than I want to admit, but the knowledge I gained was worth it. Now that I know what I'm working with I could get another G1 adapter and try that route again but don't really like the extra connections. Can I burn directly to the memcal by using the Burn 2 and the HDR1 memcal header?

  12. #162
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    I never used one of the adapters, I did this. http://www.gearhead-efi.com/Fuel-Inj...r-27SF512-Chip Then I got a pin adapter from red devil llc (Same as the HDR1) so once I inserted the chip I did not have to remove it to program. I bought a complete spare computer off of ebay for $25 shipped. I purchased the parts off ebay. You need to be good at soldering and removing solder, or expect more problems.

  13. #163
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    I removed the UV eprom from the original memcal and read it with the burn2.IMG_6389.jpg It is the calibration for the 305 engine that was originally in the truck.305.bin I want to solder the 27sf512 chip onto the memcal and use the HDR1 memcal header between it and the burn2. Will that work or do I need to use the dip socket? I do have a spare PCM and will test the G1 adapter process out again, just don't like so many connections. Memcal to G1 adapter, G1 adapter to ZIF, ZIF to eprom and then the G1 to the PCM.

  14. #164
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    I used a socket. I got a lot of them off ebay for less than one at moates. You could try to solder in the chip. If it did not work you could repeat the process. I got a deal on the china chips that were cheap, many hundreds of burns on the same chip with no problems. I had to trim the cover with the socket as it would not sit all the way down. Without the socket, that would not be necessary.

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