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Thread: low BLM

  1. #91
    Fuel Injected! donf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhworkin View Post
    Not working with chassis ground. What’s the grounding pin location at the PCM?
    Just double checking, in the wideband zip folder there are instructions that must be followed exactly. If its not reading at all hooked to a good chassis ground something is wrong. I hooked to both to prevent a possible voltage offset, but no reading at all indicates bigger problems. I grounded to the pcm case mount and engine ground.

  2. #92
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    It’s working! Thank you donf.

  3. #93
    Fuel Injected! donf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhworkin View Post
    Itís working! Thank you donf.
    The "desired afr" moves up and down in the adx I used but I never set it up. There is specific instructions on how to get it to work. I never did as it was not important to me, but the adx I started with had it there so I just left it. It will toggle all over the place but I think without setting it up it is reading something else.

  4. #94
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    Data log with WBO2. I unplugged CTS and didn't clear the low temp code. Attachment 14625This is the BIN I'm working with.Attachment 14626I learned how to use the VE spreadsheet (not to say that I understand it completely)so I will start looking into the WBO2 tuning process. I lowered the FP from 32psi to 23 and advanced the timing from 10 degrees adv to 19 degrees adv. Lowering the FP didn't change anything, but the timing made a big difference because it no longer falls on its face at WOT. I'm not liking the spark advance glitch and would like know why it stays at 23000 until 2000 RPMs

  5. #95
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    bb.xdl this is the glitch at idle.

  6. #96
    Fuel Injected! donf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhworkin View Post
    I lowered the FP from 32psi to 23 ....Lowering the FP didn't change anything,
    This is a huge problem if you did not readjust your calculations in you bin for the change. That drastic of a drop with no changes in the bin should have produced a very lean condition. Since you said nothing changed, I am guessing either you adjusted the math in the bin for the drop in pressure or you have a fuel problem when driving. If that's the case I would get a decent pressure gauge and put it somewhere visible. Even if it meant taking off the hood and duct taping to the window.

  7. #97
    Fuel Injected! donf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhworkin View Post
    I'm not liking the spark advance glitch and would like know why it stays at 23000 until 2000 RPMs
    Usually the crazy numbers in $OD timing logs are retard conditions. I have never seen crazy numbers that were not retard. That would be bad if your were under 0 until 2000 rpm.

  8. #98
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    Yes I did the calculations for fuel pressure / injector flow. If it wasn’t surging I would be a lot happier driving it. No matter what adjustments I make it does the same. Makes me wonder about a possible timing problem or a bad stall converter. I don’t drive much bc it’s frustrating, on the drive to work this morning it was horrible and on the way home(the cc data log) it was ok. Just went to the store and it’s pretty good, but the next drive will probably be bad. I have had a FP gauge under the wiper blade for two days and the pressure is good.

  9. #99
    Fuel Injected! donf's Avatar
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    The crazy spark numbers dont look good in the log. The AEM adx I posted is set for zero initial advance. What is the initial advance you are running with the spout connector unplugged? Thats not all there is but something is going on, just trying to get to the bottom of it. Post your current bin too.

  10. #100
    Fuel Injected! donf's Avatar
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    I looked at the adx I posted, the desired afr is actually battery voltage unless you do something with the bin. Its under the ADX editor under values. I never messed with it as I knew it was wonky. So don't let that confuse you.

  11. #101
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  12. #102
    Fuel Injected! donf's Avatar
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    The reason for the crazy numbers in the adx is you have the initial advance in the bin set at 19 degrees when the math in the adx thinks its 0. Personally I would not go over 10 initial. That's just my opinion. I would also set the initial at zero for a test then set the entire table to a fixed number like 10 and get out there when warm and check the actual timing with an accurate light. Just as a test to make sure what you think is going on is happening. I will keep looking, to see if I spot anything. You also need to set the math in the adx to match your initial timing if it is not 0. Also put maximum spark retard back where it is at from the factory. I had some weird things like that show up and Fast355 suggested to leave those areas alone. They do affect the timing but sometimes not like you think. I ran myself in a circle trying to figure those out, and in the end just left them be. It looks like your AE settings are stock. With your cam and heads you will need some more. There are pages of info here about that, its trial and error.
    Last edited by donf; 09-16-2019 at 04:56 PM.

  13. #103
    Fuel Injected! donf's Avatar
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    After looking I think your AE being stock may have been the hiccup. I am not there so I cant see or hear what all is going on. First thing I would do is the bin with a 0 degree initial setting and a fixed timing. You have to set the initial timing with the spout connector unplugged. Pick a number you can read on the balancer scale though for the fixed timing tables. Check with a good timing light. If that stays steady when warm though the rpm range try the test bin I am attaching and reset the initial to 10. You can do a compare to see what I changed, just a few things I took from my work and transferred over. The AE though is more than mine, you may need more or less but your engine is more aggressive than mine. Definitely will not need stock AE settings. Re do the adx math to show the 10 degrees so you get a closer picture. I do not think this is perfect just seeing if I can point you in the right direction for more work.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by donf; 09-16-2019 at 06:07 PM.

  14. #104
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    I pulled the spark plugs and used a piston stop to make sure of TDC, set bin and ADX at 0 and uploaded to octrich, set timing to 0 at dist w/ esc wire unhooked, IAC was sucking air ,so I adjusted and lowered counts, shut it down, reconnected esc wire, and disconnected battery to clear code. When I started it the timing stayed steady at all throttle positions, but the 23000 glitch did pop up slightly. So I loaded the test bin and set timing at 10 BTDC, set ADX to 10 BTDC and went driving. Same things happening. Almost no throttle response.ff.xdl 50% throttle and no power

  15. #105
    Fuel Injected! donf's Avatar
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    The 2300 in the timing advance will show up if you do not modify the adx for your initial advance. Its a logging error and has nothing to do with the way your car is running. Go to the little gears in the middle of tuner pro. That is the ADX editor. Click the values and go down to spark advance. Click on Spark Advance. At the bottom of the box that opens there will be a tab called conversion. Click that. Up at the top is the Equation. the +0.0000 is where you have to add your initial timing offset to log correctly. It sounds like the timing is staying at what you set it. Feel free to adjust the timing as you wish. I think though that having to run that much initial timing like 19 is covering up for something wrong that we cant see though the computer screen. Once you find out what that is you may have better results with not so crazy high initial advance.

    So we got the timing checked and you think its doing what its supposed to. Have you ever done a exhaust back pressure test? Its a little adapter I got from the snap-on truck that screws in the o2 sensor hole. Hook a pressure gauge to it. I found a lot of bad exhaust that way. Your log file ff.xdl was way too short and too erratic to tell much of anything. It looks like you have some lean spots though. The 2300 advance bug is a distraction. If you are doing logs to post for others to look at try to hold in one block until it stops adjusting, then move to the next block. You can never get it perfect on the street. Jumping all over for 60 seconds does not produce accurate data for the spreadsheet either. Not trying to harp on you. I know this is very trying.

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